'99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke Engine and DrivetrainDiscussion of the 99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 1999-Up Super Duty trucks and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 7.3L Power Stroke engine.
Last night I was going to replace the CPS and the bolt head is rounded off just enough I can not get it off with a socket. I took it to the dealer this morning and no go there either. The dealer said they could do it but would have to take everything around it out to get at it and said it would be about 2-3 hours of labor. Any suggestions how to get this bolt out so I can replace the CPS and bolt?
I rarely would recommend such a thing, but you are in a bind. Try driving on a 3/8, 12 point, deep well socket (it is .018 smaller). If the head is messed up enough, you might be able to get the 3/8 socket to bite hard enough to get it off. Otherwise, you will be in for a long weekend.
If you can get a set of vice grips on the head, try using a hammer to hit the vice grips. The vibration of the blows, may break it loose. Just be careful what you hit! I'm not sure how much room you'll have to work with but you might try an easy out. Don't worry about using to much torque (within reason), as it is a small head on a large bolt.
2001 4x4 F-250 58,000+ Miles, 7.3L, Crew Cab, 6-Spd Handshaker. Bought used 09/09. Fold over gooseneck ball. SCMT-1705 on Tow Safe. Gauges: Boost, & Pyrometer. 4" Turbo-back Exhaust. So much I want to do to this one....
Give it a good soaking in Liquid Wrench, PB Blaster, or similar fluid, and WAIT a good few hours. The do it again and WAIT. Then crank up the truck and run it to full operating temp. Shut it down, hit it AGAIN with penetrant, then attack with the vise grips, Channel Locks, driving a smaller socket over it, or some combination of such efforts. You normally want to do this with the engine cold, but my thinking is that you may need some heat in addition to the penetrant, so an attack with it well soaked and warm may be best.
I have no idea what the effect of penetrant on the CPS unit and associated wiring itself might be, so as best you can, apply to the bolt head as opposed to an overall shower of penetrant in the general area.
'02 F350, 4WD, CC, SRW, auto trans, Lariat, Trailer towing/camper/off-road equipped, bone stock.
Find an old socket you dont mind throwing away. Put some JB Weld in it and place it on the bolt to be removed. Wait until it's dry and plug yer ratchet in. If its not seized, and doesn't require a whoile bunch of torque, it should come right off. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]
Sold my F350... bought a Raptor for now... still lurking about
Tried the Craftsman bolt off, tried vice grips, used penetrating spray, all a no go. I will try the JB weld idea tommorow. Th dealership did a real number on the bolt. When I tried I stopped as soon as I knew it was rounding the bolt head so I could take it in and have done by a PROFESSIONAL. What a joke! Good news is the truck ran fine today. Didn't die once. That is the funny thing, it did this about 2 months ago, ran like crap for a day, died on me 3-4 time, and then ran fine until yesterday. Today, no problems. Starting to wonder if it really is a CPS problem.
If it is the ICP, could that cause my mileage to drop noticably? The truck also started acting up again today after running fine for a week other than decrease mileage, the only difference is today there was a noticable smell of fuel when it stalled at a stop. If the ICP or CPS set a code and the SES light, should they still be stored on the computer when I have the codes read, even though the SES light goes out after restarting?