My cruise control has quit working and I'm not sure where to start troubleshooting any help would be great I read somewhere that the clock spring could be bad but I don't know how to check that. I have an AE if that will help troubleshoot anything
Thanks
Absolutely it will help. Start with confirming the PCM is seeing the buttons move. Go to the Key On Engine Running (KOER) Switch (SW) Self Test
Key On Engine Running (KOER) Switch Self Test is a functional test of the PCM performed on demand with the engine running. This test is designed to set DTC(s) if the test does not detect a transition on one or more of the switches. After pressing the trigger to start the test, wait 5 seconds before running through the driver-operated controls to eliminate the chance of setting a false IVS code. The accelerator pedal must first be depressed and released to begin test, then the Parking Brake, Speed Control ON, OFF, SET, RESUME, COAST, Transmission Control or Clutch. The last to be depressed and released must be the brake pedal, which will test both the brake pressure applied (BPA) switch and the brake ON/OFF (BOO) switch. (this paragraph is direct word-per-word from Ken's AutoEnginuity help page.)
Alternatively, you can go to the menu of individual sensors and select each one of the individual switches and watch the values as you move the switch.
If all that works, then check the fuse at the master cylinder - the one they put on when they did the recall.
If all of that is good, the VSS in the rear axle might be intermittent. Check not only the sensor but the wiring leading up to the sensor. This was my issue when I had a cruise problem. The wiring for about 18 inches from the sensor looked like it had turned to pure carbon. I know that's not possible, but that's what it looked like. Black, dusty, and very intermittent connectivity.
I'm not sure if I'm doing this right but when I go to live data meter screen and select all speed control buttons individually and push each button the value stays at 0 am I doing something wrong?
Ok so I added brake on/off switch and brake pressure applied switch to live data and when I hit brake pedal the on /off changes from 0 to 1 and the pressure switch stays at 1 all the time and when I looked under hood I found what I believe to be the recall harness but I don't think it's plugged in where does it go
I'll go look at mine and see if I see that part of the harness but mines an 03 so I'm not sure.
If all your button presses had no effect on the live data, then your clock spring is toast. Not a terrible procedure, but watch some you-tube videos before you attempt it.
On the KOER switch test, you can do the switches individually with each run of the test. There's no set sequence that you have to use, and at least on mine I have run out of time to push all the buttons. But it will give you an error code for all the switches that you DIDN'T check. This is based on my experience running the test.
Your harness should be plugged into the pressure switch on the master cylinder at the very front of it, then should run down to the harness underneath the main underhood fuse box. I can't tell from your photo whether that's the recall harness or not, but that connector looks like it should be plugged into something (such as the brake pressure switch). The recall harness IIRC was just a single harness with a male connector on one end, a female connector on the other (should be able to plug it into itself in a circle), with an inline fuse.
P0571 is the BPA switch circuit code. It indicates that you either have a bad switch or the wiring is messed up. The PID for the switch staying set at 1 indicates the switch may have failed closed.
P1780 is TCS Circuit Out of Self Test Range, means your overdrive button either didn't get pushed during the test or has failed. Lots of guys with the auto tranny have issues with the wiring to the OD button. Not sure if that has anything to do with the cruise control however.
Ya that helps a lot thanks for the reply I did not push overdrive button and yes I'm assuming it's the recall harness mine actually has two fuses in it but the one end is not plugged into anything so I need to look on the front of the master cylinder to find that tomorrow it's pouring rain at the moment and very dark but after work tomorrow I will see what I find and let u know thanks again for the reply
So I found where that plug goes to and fixed the brake pressure applied problem but still no cruise so I'm leaning toward the clock spring is toast like RT has already said and now my horn is intermittent also so that just pushes me more to that thanks for the help I will get back on when I replace clock spring
Did you get codes for the cruise buttons when you did the KOER switch test? Or did you even check them? That would confirm the suspicion that the clock spring is toast. The horn does share a wire with the cruise control. on some trucks pressing a certain combination of cruise buttons will blow the horn.
Now that you've plugged in the BPA switch, did you recheck using the KOER switch test? It would be a shame to change out the clock spring and find out that the actual BPA switch was bad. Then you would have spent that money and time and still needed to change the BPA switch.
I think I'd try the switch test again with the steering wheel turned. That would put some stress on the clock spring and maybe make it show up as bad.
I'm generally not a parts swapper, but a BPA switch isn't that expensive to try first.:shrug03:
I ran switch test again everything passed and also ran live data for bpa again and it wasn't right so I unplugged and cleaned good and everything is working correctly again went for a drive and cruise worked perfectly it's been awhile since I have had it I must have inadvertently unplugged that when I was changing a couple injectors a couple years ago wish I had investigated sooner again thanks for your help I am sure glad this forum is here
Cool :thumbsup:
Glad you got it figured out.
Thanks for the feedback on what it was.
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