99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke Engine and DrivetrainDiscussion of the 99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 1999-Up Super Duty trucks and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 7.3L Power Stroke engine.
My tensioner takes about 29 ft-lbs of torque before it will release the tension on the belt. I have almost 200k miles on the same tensioner, but the manuals don't give me any reason to think it should be changed. On the otherhand, the manuals don't tell me how much tension, in terms of torque, the tensioner should be exerting in the belt. Does anyone know if 29 is a low number or about right? I don't think it should be less.
Just a WAG, but that sounds a little low compared to mine. I use a 24" breaker bar when I remove the serp belt in to be able to control it easily with one hand when removing the belt. I have done it with a 12" ratchet, but get the shakes when trying to hold it and slip the belt off.
But as long as the belt doesn't squeal, you're probably OK.
Springs can lose their springiness, but I think usually the housing gets out of whack on the tensioner before the spring goes. When that happens, the pulleys go out of alignment and starts to eat the belt.
OK, thanks. So far I haven't had a problem with the pully or tensioner being out of alignment. I had some noises, for which I replaced the belt after about 100k miles of use, which have lessened. But even that wasn't a squeal.
If your game though, it would be interesting to take a 1/2" drive torque wrench set at about 30 and see if the tensioner moves before the torque wrench clicks, wouldn't it?
The tensioner can be good for life, but you can diagnose it by observing it at idle. If the engine is smooth and the tensioner is bouncing ,then it is weak and should be replaced.
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03 E350 7.3 psd 15 pass, stock Hi-top with tall doors,245000 mi
00 f250 7.3 psd 2rwd supercab stock,reese electric brake controller,Goodrich rear airbags, 275000 completely reliable miles,
Still starts runs and drives as new
They have a "catch",,,,,,,,
Where and how is that.
Thanks
I wasn't going to mention it before, but since you asked...
Pull the tension off with a breaker bar. Reach under the tensioner and feel for a spring clip. Pull up and it and slowly release the tensioner. There is a "stop" that holds the clip and holds the tension off. Here are some pirctures of mine with the outside washer broke and the tensioner popped out.
I do know about that, but I guess I just don't trust it. It turns the tensioner into a big mousetrap, ready to snap closed at the wrong time. I guess I should try it out and see what happens (keeping fingers clear).
I do know about that, but I guess I just don't trust it. It turns the tensioner into a big mousetrap, ready to snap closed at the wrong time. I guess I should try it out and see what happens (keeping fingers clear).
It wont hurt long
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2001 F350 7.3 4x4 CC SRW/ Aeroforce Interceptor/ BD Thruster II/ Bellowed Up-Pipes/ 4" turbo back straight exhaust / CCV Mod /DIY 6637/ TS chip reburned with PHP tunes (Stock, 40 Tow WITH Whsiper tune, 80 Daily Driver, 100 Race, 140 Extreme, 140 smoke show)//Recon smoked cab lights/MM Hubs/Hood/HPx/FRx/GPR switch-Indicator
First vehicle (still driving): 96 F250 XLT 2x4- All factory (injectors & turbo) except straight exhaust. 570k miles
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