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99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain Discussion of the 99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 1999-Up Super Duty trucks and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 7.3L Power Stroke engine.

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Old 09-13-2009, 01:02 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Doesnt start when it cold

I have a 2000 F350 CC 7.3 with 240,000 miles. Last winter, I would need to plug it in even when it wasnt that cold, say 30 above. I have checked the GPR and thats good. I checked the resistence on the GP today, I had two that were above 7 0r 8 ohms. The others were around .3 to .4. Judging by the posts I have read, I have a couple that are bad. Would this be enough to cause cold weather starting problems? I plan to replace the GP soon, is there anything else I should take a look at or check while I have the valve covers off. Is there anything on the fuel injectors I should be looking at? The engine seems to run fine, I get around 16 to 17 MPG. It doesnt have the power it used to have but it also has 240,000 on it. Do the 7.3 tend to loose some power over time or is there something I should be looking at? I have had the truck since it was new, but it is also the only diesel I have ever owned, so I really dont know what is normal. Any information would be helpful. Thanks in advance!

P.S. It has run fine all summer, I just want to fix this before the weather goes south!
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Old 09-13-2009, 05:09 AM   #2 (permalink)
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If it were me and I had 2 bad glow plugs, then I would replace all eight.
While valve covers are off then I would replace the under valve cover harness and inspect the gaskets where connectors plug in for burnt or melted pins and connectors melted.

Another thing to look at is to look at the injector oil spouts when engine is stone cold. Have some one spin over engine and you watch for oil discharging out of the oil spouts. When it is cold and oil is thick it shows up and any injector not discharging oil at same amount as others indicates that there is worn poppet valves on the injectors. With the miles you have you may have worn poppet valves on most injectors. If you want to inspect the clearance of the poppet valve armature plate with a feeler gauge, this will tell you if poppet valves are shot. If they are shot then injectors must come out and be remachined or replaced. I did this on my truck and went with Swamps Diesel "baby swamps" injectors.

One other thing you can do is have some one put a Powerstroke friendly scanner on truck and crank oner engine while monitoring the ICP (injector control pressure). ICP needs to hit 500 psi to fire injectors. If you are having low ICP when cold then you have another hint of leaking injector o-rings or leaking poppet valves.

Too further understand the poppet valve causing cold start look at this thread called "sick stroker"and pay attention to poster "GOLFER" who is part owner of SWAMPS DIESEL PERFORMANCE". He explains why the worn poppet valves cause cold start problems. You still need to fix any glow plugs and harness's while valve covers are off too!!!!
Sick stroker........what do you guy's think??
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99 F350 Super Duty CCLB 7.3 Auto DRW 150000 miles, multi disk converter,Hydra chip with TW tunes,ISSPRO EV2 pyro fuel trans

1996 F250 XLT Ext Cab, Powerstroke, 4x4 Dana 60, Bilsteins shocks, BTS Trans, Baby Swamps,Tony Wildman Chip, AutoMeter Pyro/Trans/Boost, Tymar intake, MBRP 4 in turbo back exhaust, 209000 miles,D&B HT Starter

1996 F350 XL PowerStroke 4X4 DRW, Auto Trans, Stock Work Dump truck, DDP down pipe,Tymar intake, 113000 miles

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Old 09-13-2009, 07:45 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Excavator Thanks for the reply, first off, I have heard of cranking over the engine with the valve covers off, doesnt oil spray all over from the oil pump? Is there anything I need to disconect before doing this? With the number of Miles I have would it be a safer bett to just replace the fuel injectors while I have it apart? Are they difficult to remove and replace? Is there any special tools or precautions I should know about,how much will they cost for all 8? I have all the Ford Shop Manuals, but I am a welder by trade and tend to be just a backyard mechanic.
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Old 09-13-2009, 07:53 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Where is the best place to get parts? I hate to get parts off the internet, because you dont know if you are getting the right parts, and then its a pain to return them if their not. I have a Ford dealer in town, NAPA, Advanced Auto, O'Reillys and Red Rooster Auto Parts. I think there maybe an International Truck dealer not to far away. Are the Swamps fuel injectors high performance or just a private label rebuilt?
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Old 09-13-2009, 07:59 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Swamps Diesel or Beans diesel are 2 good shops to get good injectors.
I went with Swamps BABY SWAMPS. They are performance injectors but if you dont install a chip then they run as stock injectors and these are rebuilds right in their shop. I suggest you call Dave at Swamps diesel and they will be great help. http://www.swampsdiesel.com/

Look at heir web site and the HOW TO area

Here is their instructions on removing and installing injectors

Tips to help remove and install Powerstroke injectorsRemoval:
During removal of the injectors, oil and fuel from the passages in the cylinder heads
drains down through the injector bore into the cylinders. If not removed, this can
cause hydro lock when cranking and severely damage the engine.
There is a 32 cc dish in the center of each piston. Fluid accumulates in it, as well as in
the corner on the outside of the piston between the piston top and the cylinder wall,
due to the 45* slope of the cylinder bank. Quantities of fluid less than 1 Tablespoon
(14 cc) are probably not cause for concern.
We advise against trying to remove the fluids by cranking the engine with the starter
with injectors or glow plugs removed. The fluid will come out under extreme pressure
and at very high velocity. If this is done, and fuel in the cylinder is expelled up into
the valve train area, and it then drains into the crankcase and mixes with the oil.
After removing the valve covers, but before removing any injectors, drain the oil rails
by removing the drain plugs inside the valve cover, just under where the electrical
connectors are on the gasket (1/8" Allen). These plugs are usually very tight; to
minimize the chances of stripping the heads, give them a sharp rap with a hammer and
punch to help loosen them. Also remove one of the plugs in each oil rail, (beside
where the lines from the High Pressure Oil Pump enter) for a vent to allow air to enter
so the oil can drain.
A Mity-Vac hand pump ($60) is the best tool to remove the oil with. However, very
large 60 cc syringes are available from Farm or Veterinary supply stores for under $5.
Used with 12" of 1/4" OD poly tubing on the tip they work just fine.
Lightly oil inside the syringe and the rubber plunger before using.
The special Ford tools for injector removal and installation are not necessary. Use a
12-18" long pry bar and placing the tip under the injector clamp, very, very, gently pry
the injectors out of their bores. Make sure you are lifting them straight out in relation
to the bore, not prying them at an angle, which will wedge them against the bore.
Remove the bolt that holds the oil deflector on the clamp (5mm Allen) before prying,
otherwise the deflector can hit the Solenoid and chip it.
Remove the rear-most injector from each side first; because the engine slopes down to
the rear, this will allow the majority of the fuel and oil in that head to drain into that
cylinder.
After removing each injector, inspect the nozzle tip to verify that the copper gasket
(washer) came out with the injector, and is not left inside the injector bore.
Wipe the injector bores clean with a clean, lint-free cloth and inspect the copper
sleeves in the bottom of the bores for signs of damage such as scratches or pitting.
Since the valve covers are off, this is a good time to check the glow plugs. Use an Ohm
meter to measure the resistance from the tip of the glow plug to the cylinder head.
Good plugs show about .5-.6 Ohms, bad ones several thousand.

Installation:
If you receive your injectors with O-rings on them, they are brand new ones. We
remove the old O-rings, but do not remove the steel backup rings unless they appear
damaged. If you are installing the O-rings, follow the directions included with them.
If your injectors come numbered 1-8, install them in their corresponding cylinders:
driver's side is even-numbered, starting from the front to the rear, 2,4,6,8 and
passenger's side is odd, 1,3,5,7. All the injectors are identical, but we keep track of
the injector serial number during our work, and number them for ease of tracking.
The injector bore in the cylinder head has a copper cup or sleeve in the bottom, and
the copper washer on the nozzles tip seats on the cup. It is common for bits of carbon
to break loose during removal, and if they remain in the cup they can prevent the
copper washer from completely sealing. This can allow fuel to leak into the
combustion chamber and combustion pressure to enter the injector cup area.
Lightly coat the injector O-rings with engine oil before installation, and make sure
everything is free from all grit or dirt. Make certain that the copper washer on the
nozzle has not fallen off during shipping and handling. If it wants to fall off when you
hold the injector downwards, put a dab of grease between the washer and nozzle to
help hold it in place. Gently push the injector down into its bore with the palm of your
hand, giving it a gentle blow if necessary.
Install all the injectors in the heads and torque the injector hold-down bolts, but
before connecting the electronics or installing the valve covers, fill the oil rails and
the pump's oil reservoir with new oil, and check that the fuel filter bowl is full of fuel.
Then continue with installing the valve covers, etc. After 10-15 minutes, check the oil
level in the heads. If the level is still full, tighten down the plugs. If you wish to
replace the O-rings on the plugs, the size is 3/32" thick, 7/16" ID and 5/8" OD. Use the
OEM replacements if possible, or ones for hydraulic applications. (The original ones
are Viton, which has a brownish color. Viton is more durable than Buna-N, which is
black.)
After checking the oil level, but with the injector wires disconnected so the injectors
will not fire (You can also remove the #9 Maxi fuse in the under hood Power
Distribution Box), crank the engine for 30-40 seconds to get oil circulating and
pressurizing. Then continue with reassembly and crank the engine for 30-40 seconds
every 15-20 minutes, or until you complete 4-5 cycles. This cycle of cranking andresting
gives time for air in the injectors to bleed out and work its way to the top of the rails.
When everything is reassembled and you're ready to start the engine, top off the oil
rail and reservoir one last time.
If the engine is started while there is still air inside the nozzle, there may not be
sufficient fuel to cushion the nozzle needle and it can crack the nozzle tips. Air inside
the fuel cavity of the plunger and barrel has similar effects on the piston.
[An alternative method to fill the rails is to install the injectors and the small drain
plugs, but remove one of the large plugs on top of each of the oil rails. (The plugs by
where the oil lines from the oil pump enter the head.) Then, with the electrical
connections disconnected, crank the engine until oil begins to come out one of the
plugs. Install that plug, then crank until oil comes out the other one. This is best done
with two people; one to turn the key, the other to watch the oil. If an assistant is not
available, with the key removed from the ignition, put the transmission in Park
(automatic) or Neutral (manual) and set the emergency brake. Then remove the small
wire with the rubber "boot" on it from the ignition solenoid which is on the passenger's
side inner fender beside the battery. Run a jumper wire from the battery "+" terminal
to the terminal on the solenoid. This will cause the engine to crank over.]

Torque Specs:
Injector Hold-Down Bolts: .....120 in/lbs
Fuel Rail End Plugs: ................. 97 in/lb
Glow Plugs:...............................14 ft/lb
Oil Rail Plugs (side):..................53 in/lb
Oil Rail End Plugs:.....................60 ft/lb
Valve Cover Bolts:....................97 in/lb

Apply thread lock/sealer to Oil Rail End Plug threads meeting Ford spec WSK-M2G351-
A6, Part Number EOAZ-19554-AA or equivalent such as Locktite 545 Hydraulic Thread
Sealant. It is not necessary to remove these plugs, but some people prefer to drain the
oil rails in this manner.
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99 F350 Super Duty CCLB 7.3 Auto DRW 150000 miles, multi disk converter,Hydra chip with TW tunes,ISSPRO EV2 pyro fuel trans

1996 F250 XLT Ext Cab, Powerstroke, 4x4 Dana 60, Bilsteins shocks, BTS Trans, Baby Swamps,Tony Wildman Chip, AutoMeter Pyro/Trans/Boost, Tymar intake, MBRP 4 in turbo back exhaust, 209000 miles,D&B HT Starter

1996 F350 XL PowerStroke 4X4 DRW, Auto Trans, Stock Work Dump truck, DDP down pipe,Tymar intake, 113000 miles
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Old 09-13-2009, 08:03 PM   #6 (permalink)
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You can just crank it over and even let it run with covers off as it does not spray oil much at all.
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99 F350 Super Duty CCLB 7.3 Auto DRW 150000 miles, multi disk converter,Hydra chip with TW tunes,ISSPRO EV2 pyro fuel trans

1996 F250 XLT Ext Cab, Powerstroke, 4x4 Dana 60, Bilsteins shocks, BTS Trans, Baby Swamps,Tony Wildman Chip, AutoMeter Pyro/Trans/Boost, Tymar intake, MBRP 4 in turbo back exhaust, 209000 miles,D&B HT Starter

1996 F350 XL PowerStroke 4X4 DRW, Auto Trans, Stock Work Dump truck, DDP down pipe,Tymar intake, 113000 miles
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