99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke Engine and DrivetrainDiscussion of the 99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 1999-Up Super Duty trucks and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 7.3L Power Stroke engine.
Can anyone shed some light on the operation of this valve?
When can I tell if its working properly as opposed to not working as it should. I have no engine warning lites.
It starts and idles, but when I start to increase the throttle I have nothing unless I put my foot 1/3 pedal into it ( a cold engine)
Is this because the butterfly is closing the exhaust flow?
thanks
__________________
2000 F250 7.3PSD CC AUTO SB 140k ITP Reg return,HPX,AFE,3.5dp to 4'' magnaflow,Sonnex Valve/spring kit, DP Tunes 80 tow 80E Auto Meter pyro/boost
Can anyone shed some light on the operation of this valve?
When can I tell if its working properly as opposed to not working as it should. I have no engine warning lites.
It starts and idles, but when I start to increase the throttle I have nothing unless I put my foot 1/3 pedal into it ( a cold engine)
Is this because the butterfly is closing the exhaust flow?
thanks
You will hear the EBPV close. It makes the exhaust sound like a jet. If you EBPS isn't working properly, the PCM may not tell the valve to actuate. If its not working, it may be due to not all of the fuel burning (from being a cold block) and/or thick oil.
Sent from my DROID RAZR using AutoGuide App
__________________
2001 F350 7.3 4x4 CC SRW/ Aeroforce Interceptor/ BD Thruster II/ Bellowed Up-Pipes/ 4" turbo back straight exhaust / CCV Mod /DIY 6637/ TS chip reburned with PHP tunes (Stock, 40 Tow WITH Whsiper tune, 80 Daily Driver, 100 Race, 140 Extreme, 140 smoke show)//Recon smoked cab lights/MM Hubs/Hood/HPx/FRx/GPR switch-Indicator
First vehicle (still driving): 96 F250 XLT 2x4- All factory (injectors & turbo) except straight exhaust. 570k miles
It's a good chance the throttle being less responsive is due to the ebpv being closed.
The ebpv is closed when the intake air sensor is reading temps under 32*f and the engine oil temp is under 180 and the truck is cruising. When you increase throttle, the valve is opened and power seems to increase. If you had a boost gauge, you could watch the boost numbers decrease and exhaust temps increase as the valve closes. Most people hear it as a whooshing sound inside the cab as you are driving.
__________________ Tom
99.5 PS CC 4x4 SRW ZF-6
Triple Pillar Gauges; Fuel pres, Pyro, Boost
AE, Alldatadiy, and half a clue
- AKA "The Big White Truck"
I never heard this jet sound like my friends 99 when he was backing up on a half warmed engine at 50*.
I never go anywhere until it has some throttle response. Even in 40* weather I need at least 5-10 min. b4 I head out on the road. Then at 50mph it takes 2.5 miles b4 the converter locks up.
I love the truck when its up to temp........ but I hate it when its cold.
You just can't drive away with these diesels!( Would this be the norm for a 7.3)
Well I know that the ebpv is not closed .....because this truck stays around 300 on the pyro and goes like a bat out of hell with the tuner.
I think it just doesn't close when it is called for from the pcm
When I bought this truck, it had pedestal leaks, so I replaced all o'rings, did reg return,yada yada $$
CHECK my signature
Sooo... you would think if the pcm calls for the valve to close and its stuck open.... wouldn't the dash engine lite come on?
OR..... I just don't have this jet sound and it is working due to the absence in throttle response and poor power until it warms up?
Would it throw a code and NOT lite the engine warning lite? I have an AE program but its for gassers OBD II I think I would need the diesel disc... more $$
Thanks for again for your time
Tom
__________________
2000 F250 7.3PSD CC AUTO SB 140k ITP Reg return,HPX,AFE,3.5dp to 4'' magnaflow,Sonnex Valve/spring kit, DP Tunes 80 tow 80E Auto Meter pyro/boost
I never heard this jet sound like my friends 99 when he was backing up on a half warmed engine at 50*.
I never go anywhere until it has some throttle response. Even in 40* weather I need at least 5-10 min. b4 I head out on the road. Then at 50mph it takes 2.5 miles b4 the converter locks up.
I love the truck when its up to temp........ but I hate it when its cold.
You just can't drive away with these diesels!( Would this be the norm for a 7.3)
Well I know that the ebpv is not closed .....because this truck stays around 300 on the pyro and goes like a bat out of hell with the tuner.
I think it just doesn't close when it is called for from the pcm
When I bought this truck, it had pedestal leaks, so I replaced all o'rings, did reg return,yada yada $$
CHECK my signature
Sooo... you would think if the pcm calls for the valve to close and its stuck open.... wouldn't the dash engine lite come on?
OR..... I just don't have this jet sound and it is working due to the absence in throttle response and poor power until it warms up?
Would it throw a code and NOT lite the engine warning lite? I have an AE program but its for gassers OBD II I think I would need the diesel disc... more $$
Thanks for again for your time
Tom
The transmission warms up faster with the torque converter unlocked. Yes its normal.
The EBPV wouldn't be closed anyways if you was driving like a bat out of hell. If the EBPV is plugged up and you EOT sensor is working properly, and its still not closing, you may have a bad EBPS. Very common especially with the age on our trucks. I don't know if that keeps it from working, but seems like mine didn't work until I replaced mine. I don't think it would set a CEL...but there may still be a code that would come up. Id imagine it could get stuck, but I've never heard of one.
The truck sounds like a jet with no throttle. The truck actually idles up itself during the EBPV operation.
Sent from my DROID RAZR using AutoGuide App
__________________
2001 F350 7.3 4x4 CC SRW/ Aeroforce Interceptor/ BD Thruster II/ Bellowed Up-Pipes/ 4" turbo back straight exhaust / CCV Mod /DIY 6637/ TS chip reburned with PHP tunes (Stock, 40 Tow WITH Whsiper tune, 80 Daily Driver, 100 Race, 140 Extreme, 140 smoke show)//Recon smoked cab lights/MM Hubs/Hood/HPx/FRx/GPR switch-Indicator
First vehicle (still driving): 96 F250 XLT 2x4- All factory (injectors & turbo) except straight exhaust. 570k miles
From the Ford 1999-2003 7.3L Powertrain Control/Emissions Diagnosis Manual (PC-ED)
Intake Air Temperature Sensor
The IAT signal provides air temperature information to the PCM. The PCM uses the air temperature information to operate the Exhaust Back-Pressure (EBP) system and to determine the cold idle setpoint. During long idle periods at cold ambient temperatures, the setpoint will increase engine rpm.
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Engine Oil Temperature Sensor
The EOT signal is used by the PCM to calculate fuel quantity, injection timing, glow plug operation and exhaust back-pressure.
At low ambient air temperatures, and oil temperature below 50°C (122°F), low idle is increased to a maximum of 1300 rpm to increase engine warm-up. Fuel quantity and timing is controlled throughout the total operating range to provide adequate torque and power.
An Engine Oil Temperature signal detected out of range, high or low, by the PCM will cause the PCM to assume an engine oil temperature of 20°C (68°F) for starting purposes and 100°C (212°F) for operating purposes. The Malfunction Indicator Lamp in the instrument cluster will be illuminated as long as the fault condition exists.
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Exhaust Back-Pressure Sensor
The exhaust back-pressure is controlled by the PCM to provide more heat to the coolant for cab heating when ambient air temperature is below 7°C (45°F) and engine oil temperature is below 75°C (167°F) during low load, low speed operating conditions.
An open or short in the Exhaust Back-Pressure sensor wiring will result in a low out of range voltage at the PCM, and the PCM will disable Exhaust Back-Pressure control.
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Exhaust Back Pressure Regulator
Exhaust back pressure is controlled to provide more heat to the coolant for cab heating when ambient air temperature is below 7°C (45°F) and engine oil temperature is below 75°C (167°F) during low load. At high load, high speed conditions, the back pressure system is disabled.
The exhaust back pressure regulator solenoid and exhaust back pressure piston are contained in the turbocharger mounting pedestal. Turbocharger pressurized lube oil is routed to the exhaust back pressure solenoid. Oil regulated by the exhaust back pressure solenoid actuates the piston which operates the back pressure valve in the exhaust housing.
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Malfunction indicator codes:
code..system.........problem...................... ....................probable cause
P0470 EBP Exhaust back pressure sensor circuit malfunction Biased sensor, open signal return
P0471 EBP Exhaust back pressure sensor circuit performance Plugged, stuck or leaking hose
P0472 EBP Exhaust back pressure sensor circuit low input Open/grounded circuit, biased sensor, PCM
P0473 EBP Exhaust back pressure sensor circuit high input Circuit shorted to 5v, biased sensor, PCM
P0475 EPR Exhaust pressure control valve malfunction Open/grounded ckt., solenoid open/shorted, failed PCM
P0476 EPR Exhaust pressure control valve performance Failed/stuck EPR control, EBP fault, EPR circuit
P0478 EPR Exhaust pressure control valve high input Plugged sensor line, stuck butterfly, restricted exhaust
__________________
My Sierra Blanca in the sig pic was a great pickup for 11.5 years. I sold it a coupla years ago. I drove a hand-me-down 2003 F-150 SuperCrew 4.6L 2V for a while, but it was unacceptable for towing more than a rowboat. Replacement is a 2012 F-150 EcoBoost SuperCrew Lariat that tows my 5,000-pound TT like a dream.
SmokeyWren, are the temps (IAT, EOT) pretty accurate on the cd? My EBPV will not operate with ambient air temps over 32, even when EOT is low. I also experience EBPV closing at 70mph cruising down the highway, which is good since it's pretty cold in the truck otherwise.
I have checked my IAT and EOT sensors for being biased in the past and they read what the are supposed to for the given temps.
__________________ Tom
99.5 PS CC 4x4 SRW ZF-6
Triple Pillar Gauges; Fuel pres, Pyro, Boost
AE, Alldatadiy, and half a clue
- AKA "The Big White Truck"
SmokeyWren, are the temps (IAT, EOT) pretty accurate on the cd?
Mine seemed to be working per the book. I rarely allowed my engine to idle for more than a few seconds. However, stopped at a red light in town, my idle would elevate and the exhaust would make that stopped-up sound, and engine power would fall off to almost nothing.
IAT is usually several degrees above ambient. The sender is in the intake system, and it sucks in under-hood air that has been warmed by the radiator.
If you have to give it more than 1/3 throttle before the engine rpm responds, the EBPV is not your problem...how old is your engine oil?
Even on cold days, i let my truck run for 15 seconds or so then take off. Best way to warm it up is to run it, its not going to hurt anything to run a cold motor. I experience something similar though..if its under 15* or so the first 1/8 mile i drive it is a little sluggish since i don't let it warm up in the driveway. Thick oil probably. But it always clears up within 30 seconds of driving.
Ive been reading this because some of the authors poroblems are the same as mine. Ive recieved many suggestions that add up to SO MANY things to check or replace that my head is spinning. My truck idles at about 750. It Never EVER idles faster than that regardless of outside temperature. Sometimes, but not always, I get a lot of white whispy smoke from the exhaust. All the time though lately, the regular exhaust smells a bit different, almost like something burning. Until Ive idled for at least 5 minutes, it will not respond to throttle and acts like my bumper is up againt 10 tons of weight. This is in any temp under 50 or so degrees. All last week it acted TERRIBLE w hard start, engine jumping so hard I thought mounts would brake, then after a while acting like one cyl was dead. Idled pretty well but went crazy unbalanced when trying to increase rpms. Tank was about 1/8 full. Yesterday I went to station and brought back 10 gals of new fuel, also adding diesel additive--I think 'dieselpower'? Started hard but after a minute purred like a kitty! Drives well now except I hear a light knocking like at certain rpm , usually not under load such as coasting to a stop. It reminds me of wrist pin problems I had in an old chevy 350. Im having a little fuel in the valley on top the engine but cant isolate the source. Also I noticed that once in a while when turning the key to the position to heat up the plugs, I heard almost nothing as opposed to the usual clicking buzzing etc. This thing is driving me nuts. Someone suggested its because I keep the thing at 1/4 tank or lower at all times and its not picking up fuel well or sucking crud, etc. Other have mentioned the injectors, relays of all types, sensors of all types, rail pump?? Fuel line at pumpsucking air, etc etc I cant afford to take it to adealer but it sounds like ifI try to start replacing all potential problems Ill spend more in long run and have the truck down for weeks. What a love/hate relationship these things are...
__________________
2001 F-350 Lariat,CC,LB,SRW,4X4,Auto,7.3,2"lift,KYBs, 3.73, steel oil x-over, aFe Stage II Pro 7, AirCond mod, Fumoto, DP 60,80,100. AIH Delete, hi-lite/fog-lite on mod. Dead bird in grill. Part of finger in new ball joint nut.
I never see anyone mention the EBPV preload, although it is mentioned in the FSM and also in the instructions for the reseal kit. When I did my turbo & pedistal etc I set the preload with a spring scale as per the instructions, on the bench. My EBPV works like it was intended, and I like that. Not sure how much the proper preload helped but I don't think it hurt.
__________________
Brian, Tucson, Arizona
02 F350 4x4 CREW 7.3 140K, AIS, Isspro pyro, boost & tranny temp pillar pod, Dipricol coolant temp, Isspro EV-2 Fuel Pressure & HPOP, Dieselsite boots, coolant & tranny filters & 203* Stat, 6.0 Tranny Cooler, ITP pre pump tank mod, Bellowed Up Pipes, Riffraff Frx, netbook mount with AE, GPR LED, Stancor, Red Head steering gear, Battery Tender & 2 Marincos.
Ive been reading this because some of the authors poroblems are the same as mine. Ive recieved many suggestions that add up to SO MANY things to check or replace that my head is spinning. My truck idles at about 750. It Never EVER idles faster than that regardless of outside temperature. Sometimes, but not always, I get a lot of white whispy smoke from the exhaust. All the time though lately, the regular exhaust smells a bit different, almost like something burning.If it burns your eyes, its probably fuel. If its blueish color, its oil. Until Ive idled for at least 5 minutes, it will not respond to throttle and acts like my bumper is up againt 10 tons of weight.How many miles on your truck? This is in any temp under 50 or so degrees. All last week it acted TERRIBLE w hard start, engine jumping lope? so hard I thought mounts would brake, then after a while acting like one cyl was dead. Idled pretty well but went crazy unbalanced when trying to increase rpms. Tank was about 1/8 full Put half a tank in/check fuel pressure. Its easy, just get a 5/8 (IIRC) fuel line and a liquid pressure gauge on the end of it. Secure the gauge on with a hose clamp and the other end on the fuel bowl drain line coming down the passenger side of the engine. Open the valve and turn the key over and look at the gauge. should read around 55psi. Yesterday I went to station and brought back 10 gals of new fuel, also adding diesel additive--I think 'dieselpower'? Started hard but after a minute purred like a kitty! Drives well now except I hear a light knocking like at certain rpm , usually not under load such as coasting to a stop. It reminds me of wrist pin problems I had in an old chevy 350. Im having a little fuel in the valley on top the engine but cant isolate the source. Also I noticed that once in a while when turning the key to the position to heat up the plugs, I heard almost nothing as opposed to the usual clicking buzzing etc. This thing is driving me nuts. Someone suggested its because I keep the thing at 1/4 tank or lower at all times and its not picking up fuel well or sucking crud, etc. Other have mentioned the injectors, relays of all types, sensors of all types, rail pump?? Fuel line at pumpsucking air, etc etc I cant afford to take it to adealer but it sounds like ifI try to start replacing all potential problems Ill spend more in long run and have the truck down for weeks You can always purchase AE Ford bundle...its worth it. What a love/hate relationship these things are...
You got my head spinning...
__________________
2001 F350 7.3 4x4 CC SRW/ Aeroforce Interceptor/ BD Thruster II/ Bellowed Up-Pipes/ 4" turbo back straight exhaust / CCV Mod /DIY 6637/ TS chip reburned with PHP tunes (Stock, 40 Tow WITH Whsiper tune, 80 Daily Driver, 100 Race, 140 Extreme, 140 smoke show)//Recon smoked cab lights/MM Hubs/Hood/HPx/FRx/GPR switch-Indicator
First vehicle (still driving): 96 F250 XLT 2x4- All factory (injectors & turbo) except straight exhaust. 570k miles
From the Ford 1999-2003 7.3L Powertrain Control/Emissions Diagnosis Manual (PC-ED)
Intake Air Temperature Sensor
The IAT signal provides air temperature information to the PCM. The PCM uses the air temperature information to operate the Exhaust Back-Pressure (EBP) system and to determine the cold idle setpoint. During long idle periods at cold ambient temperatures, the setpoint will increase engine rpm.
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Engine Oil Temperature Sensor
The EOT signal is used by the PCM to calculate fuel quantity, injection timing, glow plug operation and exhaust back-pressure.
At low ambient air temperatures, and oil temperature below 50°C (122°F), low idle is increased to a maximum of 1300 rpm to increase engine warm-up. Fuel quantity and timing is controlled throughout the total operating range to provide adequate torque and power.
An Engine Oil Temperature signal detected out of range, high or low, by the PCM will cause the PCM to assume an engine oil temperature of 20°C (68°F) for starting purposes and 100°C (212°F) for operating purposes. The Malfunction Indicator Lamp in the instrument cluster will be illuminated as long as the fault condition exists.
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Exhaust Back-Pressure Sensor
The exhaust back-pressure is controlled by the PCM to provide more heat to the coolant for cab heating when ambient air temperature is below 7°C (45°F) and engine oil temperature is below 75°C (167°F) during low load, low speed operating conditions.
An open or short in the Exhaust Back-Pressure sensor wiring will result in a low out of range voltage at the PCM, and the PCM will disable Exhaust Back-Pressure control.
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Exhaust Back Pressure Regulator
Exhaust back pressure is controlled to provide more heat to the coolant for cab heating when ambient air temperature is below 7°C (45°F) and engine oil temperature is below 75°C (167°F) during low load. At high load, high speed conditions, the back pressure system is disabled.
The exhaust back pressure regulator solenoid and exhaust back pressure piston are contained in the turbocharger mounting pedestal. Turbocharger pressurized lube oil is routed to the exhaust back pressure solenoid. Oil regulated by the exhaust back pressure solenoid actuates the piston which operates the back pressure valve in the exhaust housing.
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Malfunction indicator codes:
code..system.........problem...................... ....................probable cause
P0470 EBP Exhaust back pressure sensor circuit malfunction Biased sensor, open signal return
P0471 EBP Exhaust back pressure sensor circuit performance Plugged, stuck or leaking hose
P0472 EBP Exhaust back pressure sensor circuit low input Open/grounded circuit, biased sensor, PCM
P0473 EBP Exhaust back pressure sensor circuit high input Circuit shorted to 5v, biased sensor, PCM
P0475 EPR Exhaust pressure control valve malfunction Open/grounded ckt., solenoid open/shorted, failed PCM
P0476 EPR Exhaust pressure control valve performance Failed/stuck EPR control, EBP fault, EPR circuit
P0478 EPR Exhaust pressure control valve high input Plugged sensor line, stuck butterfly, restricted exhaust
Thanks Smokey Wren for the explanations!!
I finally got the enhanced AE for my 2000 7.3
NOW it makes some sense... I have a P0470 and P0478
Never heard that jet sound because it never worked since I got it!
The reason I started this thread is due to A HARD START ISSUE for some time.
This is what I replaced or tested:
NEW: 1000AMP batteries
'' GPR
'' CPS
'' LPOP
'' OIL/FUEL FILTERS
TESTED all glow plugs .3-.4 ohms
Now I have the AE and noticed that at 670 rpm ICP is 480psi
how could it run?
@1600rpm is 780psi
@2000rpm is 1100psi
The truck runs great and has full power does not blow oil or use it
Is this a sign of a sticking IPR or a bad IPC sensor??
I'm at my wits end with this truck your time is much appreciated
Thanks Tom
__________________
2000 F250 7.3PSD CC AUTO SB 140k ITP Reg return,HPX,AFE,3.5dp to 4'' magnaflow,Sonnex Valve/spring kit, DP Tunes 80 tow 80E Auto Meter pyro/boost
NOW it makes some sense... I have a P0470 and P0478
Never heard that jet sound because it never worked since I got it!
The reason I started this thread is due to A HARD START ISSUE for some time.
This is what I replaced or tested:
NEW: 1000AMP batteries
'' GPR
'' CPS
'' LPOP
'' OIL/FUEL FILTERS
TESTED all glow plugs .3-.4 ohms
Now I have the AE and noticed that at 670 rpm ICP is 480psi
how could it run?
@1600rpm is 780psi
@2000rpm is 1100psi
The truck runs great and has full power does not blow oil or use it
Is this a sign of a sticking IPR or a bad IPC sensor??
I'm at my wits end with this truck your time is much appreciated
Thanks Tom
did you ever find the problem?
__________________
early 1999 F250 4X4 6spd, ext. cab, short box, Full Force stage 1 injectors, 6 postion chip from Full Force.
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