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99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain Discussion of the 99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 1999-Up Super Duty trucks and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 7.3L Power Stroke engine.

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Old 01-27-2012, 02:26 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Engine block heater

How will I know for sure if this is working? I have plugged it in once the night before a 25 deg morning. It did not seem like the truck warmed up all that much quicker than ususal. It did start fine though.
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Old 01-27-2012, 02:28 PM   #2 (permalink)
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With the engine cold, after plugging in for a bit, reach up to the top of the oil filter mount. It should be warm/hot if working.
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Old 01-27-2012, 02:32 PM   #3 (permalink)
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If the heater is plugged in overnight at 25F, you'll be able to feel some warmth at the thermostat housing on the engine.

If you suspect it's not working, and have an ohmmeter, check across the two flat prongs of the plug. You should see about 14 ohms there. If you get an open circuit, your cord is probably broken right behind the plug from flapping in the breeze. You can cut the cord back and install a new plug, or go with the Marinco Mod (see the link in my signature). The block heater itself is probably fine.
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Hard or no-start? Check Here
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Old 01-27-2012, 04:41 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Even when its zero out mine will warm truck enough for top of the motor and even upper rad hose to be warm, relative to outside air. I can also see the temp gauge go up when I turn key on. I have instant heat. I also see it in my electric bill. Also if you listen by the left wheel well I can hear all my Fords hiss a bit as the heater comes up to temp after plugging it in.

I have been told they are about 1300 watts.
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Old 01-27-2012, 06:33 PM   #5 (permalink)
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If you want to know if it is working check the amps on one leg of the 120V supply circuit with only the heater on that circuit. The heater should be using 8-9 amps. If you have voltage on the supply source but are not pulling amps then the heater is not working.
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Old 01-27-2012, 07:08 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flipper612 View Post
I have been told they are about 1300 watts.
The 7.3L comes with a 1000 Watt block heater.

120V^2/1000W = 14.4 ohms

or for Chris's amp test - 1000W/120V = 8.33 Amps

The downside of that is you're testing on a 120V energized circuit. It might hurt if you mess up.
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99.5 F250 PSD Supercab LB 4x4, ZF-6 w/SB Con OFE, 3.73LS, Boost & pyro gauges, Swamps S175/146 injectors, DP 80 HP Econo PCM (classic version), AIS, coolant filter w/"hokum" bracket, regulated return, heated mirror mod, lighted cupholder, Marinco heater plug-in.

Hard or no-start? Check Here
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Old 01-27-2012, 07:36 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Thanks for the help guys. I will check it out further.
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Old 01-27-2012, 07:57 PM   #8 (permalink)
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I use a Kill-a-watt to see that it is working. My block heater draws approximately 980-985W at the wall.
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Old 01-28-2012, 09:21 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
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The 7.3L comes with a 1000 Watt block heater.

120V^2/1000W = 14.4 ohms

or for Chris's amp test - 1000W/120V = 8.33 Amps

The downside of that is you're testing on a 120V energized circuit. It might hurt if you mess up.

I agree, working on energized circuits requires some experience and caution. On a simple 120V ampt test like this there is something that one can do to make if much safer, and you can build it for about 5 bucks. Typically to do an amp test you have to get into the breaker box to get to an exposed single leg wire of the circuit to put your amp gage loop on. I have in my elecrical kit a jumper I made years ago, probably cost 5 bucks to make up. The jumper has a male 120V 15A plug to go into the source at the wall outlet, 12" of two, hot black and the white neutral, seperate insulated wires. I took the Romex outer cover on them. It has a female 120V 15A plug in on the other end. I plug the jumper in the wall outlet, plug the 120V item I want to amp check in the other end of the jumper and put my amp gage loop on, around, one of the two exposed insulated wires. Much safer than going to the breaker box, taking off the cover and getting into ALL those circuits. Hope this helps someone.
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Old 01-28-2012, 10:43 PM   #10 (permalink)
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I don't know but I have always just felt the heater cord to see if it is warm. Also at only 25 degrees you might not really notice much. I don't even plug mine in until it is going to be below 0
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Old 01-29-2012, 04:55 AM   #11 (permalink)
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x2 on the Kill-a-watt, comes in handy when you want to know how much current is being consumed.

On a side note, I was going to do the Marinco mod for this heater, but there is bumper under the plastic..... so I'll have to fabricate a bracket to hold the receptical, behind the front license plate.
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Old 01-29-2012, 05:33 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Sorry guys my 2001 diesel does not have a block heater on it so I'm not sure if the heater is still the freeze plug type. My old 93 did and from what I remember the cord could also be unplugged at the block heater and checked on a bench. The male end of the cord was bad on mine - sounded like a common problem at the time.
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Old 01-29-2012, 11:50 PM   #13 (permalink)
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The trucks at work (2008 Sterlings with Detroits) have this type of plug (Marinco) and they have a light that shows the cord plugged in and that the heater is working. If either light doesn't come on, no heater.
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Old 01-30-2012, 12:20 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
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On a side note, I was going to do the Marinco mod for this heater, but there is bumper under the plastic..... so I'll have to fabricate a bracket to hold the receptical, behind the front license plate.
Just drill through the bumper. That's what I did. Check the Marinco Mod link in my signature. It's clear behind the spot that I mounted it.

Some have hinged the license plate and mounted the Marinco behind it.
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99.5 F250 PSD Supercab LB 4x4, ZF-6 w/SB Con OFE, 3.73LS, Boost & pyro gauges, Swamps S175/146 injectors, DP 80 HP Econo PCM (classic version), AIS, coolant filter w/"hokum" bracket, regulated return, heated mirror mod, lighted cupholder, Marinco heater plug-in.

Hard or no-start? Check Here
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Old 01-30-2012, 03:43 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Just drill through the bumper. That's what I did. Check the Marinco Mod link in my signature. It's clear behind the spot that I mounted it.

Some have hinged the license plate and mounted the Marinco behind it.
How hard was it to drill through the bumper? What kind of saw did you use?
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