F350 Powerstroke Braking System Question - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
Ford Diesel Forum / Powerstroke Forum
Ford Diesel Forum / Powerstroke Forum
Go Back   Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com > 1999-2007 Ford Super Duties > 99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain

99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain Discussion of the 99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 1999-Up Super Duty trucks and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 7.3L Power Stroke engine.

TheDieselstop.com is the premier Diesel Truck Forum on the internet. Registered Users do not see the above ads.
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 07-14-2007, 02:05 AM   #1 (permalink)
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Viewtown Virginia
Posts: 32
My Photos: (0)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Send a message via ICQ to JudgeDredd
F350 Powerstroke Braking System Question

members,

How long should your brakes (rotors/pads) last for a street driven, occassional towing (16' Open trailer) F350 7.3 PS Crew Cab last miles wise ? I seem to be going through pads/rotors pretty fast... What else can go wrong in the brake system that could be causing premature excessive wearing of the brakes ?

Plaes Help :-) Ceece
__________________
2000 F-350 7.3 PSD Crew Cab
Lariat 4x4 Gold/Black
Diablo Predator Tuner
Mac Cold Air Kit
Magna Flow Stainless Steel Exhaust
3.5" Down Pipe
4" Exhaust
JudgeDredd is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 07-14-2007, 02:56 PM   #2 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
Reg Reich's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 1999
Location: Cambridge, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 469
My Photos: (0)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Re: F350 Powerstroke Braking System Question

[img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/biggrin.gif[/img] I have 244,000kms (152,000 Miles)on my original rotors & am on my third set of pads. I tow a VERY large 5ver & have 100,000 kms (62,000 Miles)on its original brake lining. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smirk.gif[/img] In answer to your question. Everyone will get different mileage on brakes because of EVERYONES different driving habits & technics. IMHO, the best way to ensure you can get as high mileage as possible is to ensure the caliper slide pins are kept free & lubricated. I have gotten in the habit of checking & lubricating my slide pins in the fall, before winter driving & again in the spring for my summer driving. I have done this on ALL my vehicles & have found this practice very helpful in getting max life on brake rotors & pads. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif[/img] My wifes PT Cruiser has 87,000kms (54,000 Miles)on it with original brake components.
I had my truck Safety Inspected this week & it was brought to my attention that the rotors had the vents rusted & plugged from metal delamination & rust buildup. I decided to leave the rotors on the truck & reamed out the vents & removed as much rust as I could & am running the rotors to see how the brakes re-act once they are hot again when pulling or hauling. I also haul a 10.5ft Lance Camper when not pulling the 5ver.
I know this answer is long but hope it will answer some of your question. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/warmsmile.gif[/img]

Reg
__________________
2010 Ram 3500 Dually Laramie. Austin Tan Pearlcoat/Light Greystone Pearlcoat. You Lost Out Ford.
Fulltiming. Gone Haulin. 38 ft 5ver.
Reg Reich is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 07-14-2007, 02:59 PM   #3 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Rochester NY
Posts: 2,937
My Photos: (2)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Re: F350 Powerstroke Braking System Question

This is some of the simplest and best advice I've seen.

My stockers made it to 125k even the way I drive they were finally done in by rotted sliders. because I never greased them.

2 times a year minimum, also the ford factory rotors have done great for me, the aftermarket, are ok, but just don't seem to do as well, same for the pads my factory pads made it over 100k. aftermarket, not so much.
__________________
2011 F-350 ECSB 4x4 Lariat Sterling Gray Metallic. 51,000 mi
Mods: Silver Star Ultra bulbs, M&S Mini-Maxx, MBRP "Race" Exhaust

North East Mid-Atlantic Diesel Club: http://www.nemadc.org/

#51
MrPlowJr_EZ_V is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 07-14-2007, 03:23 PM   #4 (permalink)
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Viewtown Virginia
Posts: 32
My Photos: (0)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Send a message via ICQ to JudgeDredd
Re: F350 Powerstroke Braking System Question

OK, for anybody following this thread, I went out and inspected the back two brake assemblies, I discovered the passenger side caliper was badly worn, the rubber boots were rotted (pistons) and only (1) piston would come up when the brakes were pumped. So it looks like that caliper was not dissengaging and riding the rotor essentially wearing the pad down to the metal. The driver side was fine, rotor and pads.
So a new rotor, caliper and pads for the passenger side was done. Hope this helps somebody out there :-) Ceece
__________________
2000 F-350 7.3 PSD Crew Cab
Lariat 4x4 Gold/Black
Diablo Predator Tuner
Mac Cold Air Kit
Magna Flow Stainless Steel Exhaust
3.5" Down Pipe
4" Exhaust
JudgeDredd is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 07-14-2007, 03:50 PM   #5 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
Reg Reich's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 1999
Location: Cambridge, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 469
My Photos: (0)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Re: F350 Powerstroke Braking System Question

[img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/warmsmile.gif[/img] Thank You.
BTW Judge, yes it is also VERY important, as you have found out, to ensure the caliper pistons are working free. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif[/img] I have found out this is usually a simple check when you have to move the pistons in the caliper to install new pads. Pushing them in to install thicker pads. Also the type of wear & wear pattern you see on the old pads can indicate to you what other problems may be in the braking system or components. I would also recommend a fluid change at each reline. I have found it works very well to suck the master cylinder dry, install fresh fluid & then bleed each wheel until I see fresh fluid in my collection bottle. If you are careful in how you press the brake pedal in the bleeding process you should not get ANY air in the system. At least I have been lucky enough to not get any when I bleed my brakes & I do it by myself. There is NO reason to press the pedal to the floor in the bleeding process. I made an adjustable tool to hold the brake pedal down, AFTER i have preesed it gown as far as I needed too & then close off the bleeder & start over again. I do ONE wheel at a time & start at the farthest wheel from the master cylinder. Works for me so far.
OBTW, I do not recommend doing just one wheel on your brake repair. ALL wheels should be equal or you COULD have uneven braking at the other locations & possib;y cause you some stability problems in an emergancy situation. I have done just the front brake pads or just the rear pads but would never do one side at a time.JMHO. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/warmsmile.gif[/img]

Reg
__________________
2010 Ram 3500 Dually Laramie. Austin Tan Pearlcoat/Light Greystone Pearlcoat. You Lost Out Ford.
Fulltiming. Gone Haulin. 38 ft 5ver.
Reg Reich is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 07-14-2007, 05:22 PM   #6 (permalink)
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Viewtown Virginia
Posts: 32
My Photos: (0)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Send a message via ICQ to JudgeDredd
Re: F350 Powerstroke Braking System Question

Thanks for your reply, I bled the back two wheels and then moved the truck a few feet and upon stopping the pedal went to the floor. i then discovered after all that I had a leak just above the fuel tank, now I have to research that and fix it not sure what it is yet, hose, clamp etc.
I am going to have to pull the fuel tank and take a look at the brake line, ahhh the fun just keeps on coming. :-(
__________________
2000 F-350 7.3 PSD Crew Cab
Lariat 4x4 Gold/Black
Diablo Predator Tuner
Mac Cold Air Kit
Magna Flow Stainless Steel Exhaust
3.5" Down Pipe
4" Exhaust
JudgeDredd is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 07-19-2007, 10:33 PM   #7 (permalink)
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Viewtown Virginia
Posts: 32
My Photos: (0)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Send a message via ICQ to JudgeDredd
Re: F350 Powerstroke Braking System Question

Well was able to remove the brake line, it was rusted. I bought new NAPA lines/fittings and bent the lines and bled all (4) brakes calipers and it again stops on a dime, thanks
__________________
2000 F-350 7.3 PSD Crew Cab
Lariat 4x4 Gold/Black
Diablo Predator Tuner
Mac Cold Air Kit
Magna Flow Stainless Steel Exhaust
3.5" Down Pipe
4" Exhaust
JudgeDredd is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 07-20-2007, 12:16 AM   #8 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Arlington, TX
Posts: 3,520
My Photos: (0)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Re: F350 Powerstroke Braking System Question

I just go ahead and take the extra time when I rotate tires to grease the slide pins, you already have the wheels off and it only takes about an extra ten minutes per wheel.

When I do a fluid flush I just gravity bleed. Just open the passenger side bleeder and stick a piece of hose running into a container, grab a couple of quarts of fluid and a twelve pack. More if you have help. Take the top off the master cylinder and just watch the level go down (don't let it empty). Every once in a while (I keep the cooler by the wheel with the open bleeder) look at the hose. When it looks clean, change wheels (don't forget the beer cooler).

I have found this process takes about a quart of fluid for the first twelve pack and about two quarts for the second twelve pack. If you get to the fourth twelve pack you usually get to start all over tomorrow with all new fluid.
__________________
Andy
Early 99 5-98, F350 extended cab, DRW LB 245,000 miles and counting, Hood insulation delete (Soaked with fuel), Hutch mod, Harpoon mod. Otherwise, pure stock (for now)

You only need two tools: WD-40 and Duct Tape. If it doesn't move and should, use the WD-40. If it shouldn't move and does, use the duct tape.
arisley is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

  Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com > 1999-2007 Ford Super Duties > 99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On



Wheel & Tire Center

Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.3

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 06:06 PM.



Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Search Engine Friendly URLs by vBSEO 3.6.0

vBulletin Optimisation provided by vB Optimise (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2014 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.