FAN CLUCH ASSM.

[soupy]

[img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/phoney.gif[/img]
WOULD LIKE TO SAY GREAT WEB SITE NEW TO THE POWER STROKE FAMILY
LOVEN IT
JUST INSTALLED THE COMMANDO POWER CHIP LIKE IT DIDN'T NOTICE A HUGE CHANGE THEN REMOVED THE FAN AND CLUTCH ASSM.

WOW
WHAT A DIFFERENCE IT FEELS LIKE A NEW MOTOR
I COULDN'T BEGIN TO DESCRIBE THE AMOUNT OF HORSE POWER IT ADDED BY REMOVING THE FAN ASSM.WOULDN'T HAVE BELIVED IT UNLESS I TRIED IT NOT TO WORRY I INSTALLED AN ELECTRIC FAN FOR THE TRAILER PULLING TIMES THAT I MIGHT NEED IT WAS 97 DEGREES TODAY AND SHE STAYED WHERE IT ALWAYS DID ON THE HEAT RANGE GAUGE, THANKS FOR THE TIPS

[firefighter9208]

I would have to think twice before removing the clutch fan from my PSD. Please remember that the guage on the dash is really nothing more than an "idiot" light. There has been much discussion here on TheDieselStop about the factory guage being a three position guage. Cold, Operating temp (somewhere in the middle), hot (red line).

I have had a lot of experience with electric fans and race cars and have never seen an electric fan that would pull as much air as the factory clutch fan.

I would highly recommend installing a good aftermarket water temperature guage if you are going to rely on an electric fan to cool your truck. With the installation of an aftermarket chip you are probably going to run higher temps.

With the cost of a replacement engine the $6,000-$10,000 range please be careful.

[soupy]

thanks for the input, my factory dash gauge doesn't have 3 positions as some apparently do I can watch my gauge from cold come up to operating temperature . I then can take a water hose and run down over the radiator to cool it more then the factory fan would have just to prove to myself that the gauge is working like a rheostat gauge I am able to drop the temperature and register it on the factory dash gauge.
mounting two fans one being on the out side on the radiator and the other being on the inside if needed is well worth the horse power that your be given back once the factory clutch fan is removed and my mpg went way up. one fan being 14'' sq. at this time is doing a great job and considering its 97 degrees and for the price on the fans from the junk yard $10 dollars a piece it has become the cheapest mod horse power gain for the money. I didn't install a gauge but I have installed a over ride manual switch and a inline hose switch that will bring the fan on if the temp goes hot as yet my diesel is cold hearted and I haven't seen temps over 220 so I switched the switch to 180 for safe keeping
thanks

[drdenny1]

soupy,

firefighter9208 was refering to the gauge being a piece of crap. With no actual numbers to rely on a definate degree of water temperature. As for your $10.00 junk yard fans, I would not run then let alone tow with them. These are very pricey engines. If your fan(s) fail so does your engine. I would most definatly install an aftermarket water temperature gauge.

Good luck,
Denis [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smokin.gif[/img]

[soupy]

thanks firefighter9208
for the input and advice tomorrow I will be at the Carlisle truck show to purchase gauges temp/ pyrometer/and I guess a boost gauge but do I need a boost gauge. my feelings are the same about the factory temp gauge I was holding off on the purchase till the truck show, can usually get good deals on items like that
do you know am I able to decrees or increase the boost as needed or is that gauge more for show I have been here long enough to realize that the pyrometer is the most important item while modifying but is the boost gauge more so like the alternator gauge that comes in the 3 piece gauge set that you would purchase at Napa really unneeded

[SmokeyWren]

[ QUOTE ]
... is the boost gauge more so like the alternator gauge that comes in the 3 piece gauge set that you would purchase at Napa really unneeded

[/ QUOTE ]

The boost gauge is important if you set your programmer to anything higher than the stock setting.

With a stock turbo, the red line is 25 PSI. Most programmers and chips can easily attain more than 25 PSI in the higher horsepower settings. So you shouldn't run the programmer at any increased power setting until after you have both a pyrometer and a turbo boost (manifold pressure) gauge. Then drive by the gauges and never allow more than 25 PSI boost or 1,250º pre-turbo EGT.

As for your electic fan(s), they are inadequate if you tow more than a rowboat, or if you drive empty in hills or mountains. There is a reason the stock engine fan needs so many horses to cool off your PSD's cooling system. It's okay to experiment with the electric fan, but I wouldn't do it without a good calibrated coolant gauge.

So with a hot-rodded PSD with automatic tranny and - in effect - no engine fan, then you need 4 gauges. Pyrometer, boost, tranny temp, and coolant temp. And if it were me, I'd probably also want an oil temp gauge too.

With the stock engine fan, you have a wonderful cooling system on your PSD. Huge radiator and huge oil-to-water (OTW) engine oil cooler, with an engine fan powerful enough to get the job done when needed. But with that weak-sister electric fan, you have an inadequate engine cooling system for anything more than cruising around unloaded. So keep an eye on both coolant temp and oil temp to be sure you don't ruin $10,000 worth of PSD.

[firefighter9208]

Exactly what I was trying to say Smokey. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/biggrin.gif[/img]

Firefighter9208

[AutoJim]

Oh, good, Smokey basically said what I'd say, but far more diplomatically...

Clutch Fan Good. Electric Fan Not So Good. Ugg Done Now, Go Back To Test Lab, Test More Water Pumps.