Fan Clutch ? Smaller? - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
'99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain Discussion of the '99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 1999-Up Super Duty trucks and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 7.3L Power Stroke engine.

 
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post #1 of 4 (permalink) Old 12-01-2012, 01:22 PM Thread Starter
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Fan Clutch ? Smaller?

I got a replacement fan clutch at Autozone. It is made by CompressorWorks and called a Torqflo. It is about 6" in diameter whereas the Ford version I am replacing is heftier and 7" in diameter. Have they just figured out how to make them smaller or is this the wrong part?

Thanks.

Bob

2000 F350 4x4, AIS, 203F Tstat, SS EGR Tube

Last edited by robertth; 12-01-2012 at 01:32 PM.
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post #2 of 4 (permalink) Old 12-01-2012, 09:23 PM Thread Starter
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Fan Clutch ? Speed up/Slow down at idle

I changed out my fan clutch to the Autozone, Torqflo (CompressorWorks) version. It is definitely smaller and lighter than the Hayden, which OReily's sells and the Ford which I replaced. I'm not sure my old one was really bad, but I thought it may be the source of a noise I was hearing. Autozone and Torqflo (the part number is 922837) say the clutch is for "severe duty", but I'm wondering.

Hopefully, someone has had experience with the fan clutch market and can comment.

Also, maybe someone can tell me: would a blade that sped up for about a second, then slowed down for 3 seconds, when the truck was hot and idling, be an indication that the clutch was bad, or going bad?

My truck has about 192k on it and the fan clutch has never been changed. I'm now on my third water pump.

Bob

2000 F350 4x4, AIS, 203F Tstat, SS EGR Tube
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post #3 of 4 (permalink) Old 12-02-2012, 09:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robertth View Post
Also, maybe someone can tell me: would a blade that sped up for about a second, then slowed down for 3 seconds, when the truck was hot and idling, be an indication that the clutch was bad, or going bad?
Complete test for fan clutch is in the Ford workshop manual and quoted below (with a couple of clarifying comments by yours truly). I would do that test before I decided whether to spend the ~$200 for a new fan clutch.

And I would buy only the genuine Ford fan clutch. Mine was still going strong at 197,000 miles. You can get it from Tousley for $200. How much do the other brands cost? The following link says 2002, but it will fit any '99-up 7.3L pickup:
2002 FORD F-250 SUPER DUTY Parts - Tousley Ford Parts Depot

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ford Workshop Manual






Fan Clutch Test
  1. Spin the fan blade (8600) by hand. A light resistance should be felt. If there is no resistance or very high resistance, the minimum and maximum fan speeds must be checked as follows:
Fan Clutch Test—Minimum Speed Requirement
  1. Use a suitable marker to mark the water pump pulley (8509), one of the fan blade retaining bolts and the crankshaft pulley (6312).
  2. Connect a tachometer to the engine.
  3. Install a throttle adjusting tool.
  4. Connect the Digital Photoelectric Tachometer.
  5. WARNING: To avoid the possibility of personal injury or damage to the vehicle, do not operate the engine until the fan blade has been first examined for possible cracks and separation.
    Start the engine and run it at approximately 1,500 rpm until the normal operating temperature has been achieved.
  6. Operate the strobe light at 3600 rpm for 7.3L diesel engines, and aim it at the water pump pulley. Adjust the engine speed until the light flash and the water pump pulley mark are synchronized. (Yes, that's what the hot rodders and race engine builders call wide open throttle or WOT. The engine will sound like it's about to explode, but that's a similar test that every brand new PowerStroke engine went through at the International engine plant in Indianapolis, so it won't hurt a good engine).
  7. Aim the strobe light at the fan blade bolts. Adjust the strobe light until the light flash is synchronized with the marked fan blade bolt (the fan blade appears to stand still).
  8. The fan blade speed must not be greater than 2,000 rpm on 7.3L engines.
  9. Turn the engine off.
  10. If the fan blade speed was greater than 2,000 rpm, install a new fan clutch (8A616).
Fan Clutch Test—Maximum Speed Requirement
  1. Perform Steps 1 through 5 of the Fan Clutch Test—Minimum Speed Requirement.
  2. NOTE: The temperature of the air hitting the fan clutch should be above 96C (205F) for maximum fan speed.
    Block off areas on each side of the radiator in the engine compartment and the front of the radiator grille (8200). This will raise the temperature of the air striking the fan clutch and should cause the fan blade to operate at maximum speed. (In other words, the engine must be hotter than a two dollar pistol after a gunfight, so the fan clutch will lock.)
  3. Place the climate control function selector switch in the MAX A/C position and the blower motor switch in the HI position.
  4. Adjust the strobe to 3,600 rpm for 7.3L diesel engines.
  5. WARNING: To avoid the possibility of personal injury or damage to the vehicle, do not operate the engine until the fan blade has been first examined for possible cracks and separation. Start the engine and adjust the engine speed until the strobe light flash and the water pump pulley mark are synchronized.
  6. Aim the strobe light at the fan blade retaining bolts. Adjust the strobe light until the light flash is synchronized with the marked fan blade bolt (the fan blade appears to stand still).
  7. If the fan blade speed is less than 2,850 rpm on 7.3L engines, install a new fan clutch.


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My Sierra Blanca in the sig pic was a great pickup for 11.5 years. I sold it a coupla years ago. I drove a hand-me-down 2003 F-150 SuperCrew 4.6L 2V for a while, but it was unacceptable for towing more than a rowboat. Replacement is a 2012 F-150 EcoBoost SuperCrew Lariat that tows my 5,000-pound TT like a dream.

Last edited by SmokeyWren; 12-02-2012 at 09:49 AM.
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post #4 of 4 (permalink) Old 12-02-2012, 10:36 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks Smokey,

I paid about $170 with tax at Autozone for their Torqflo 922837 which has a lifetime warranty, but it is smaller and less weighty than the Ford part I took off. I suppose if there is less mass to the clutch, assuming it performs as well, it might be a benefit in terms of horsepower drain. I'll be checking around some more. I have Autozone's commitment that even though I put it on, I would be able to return in, given the size difference might matter.

As far as testing the clutch goes, I did not have all the strobe equipment to do the test right. The first test they do, is see if the fan blade turns but under light resistance. In my opinion, my clutch passed that test.

I got convinced it might be a good thing to swap out because I have not heard that whirring sound I used to hear when it was hot, and because of the ossillating speed at idle, which I thought might be the cause of the new noise I have been hearing. I still have the noise, but the fan blade is not ossillating.

Bob

2000 F350 4x4, AIS, 203F Tstat, SS EGR Tube
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