99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke Engine and DrivetrainDiscussion of the 99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 1999-Up Super Duty trucks and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 7.3L Power Stroke engine.
So if any of you read my post on possible tranny problems forget it I found where my bearing noise is coming from. I went to change the front diff yesterday and pulled the cover and she was bone dry. Metal shavings inside the housing so I rinsed out as many as I could with WD40 and brake cleaner, filled her up with 75/90 and went for a small drive to get any more metal shavings into the fluid, then I drained the front diff again...still a few metal shavings coming out. It makes some bearing grinding noises when the hubs are locked and seams like the tires are binding really bad when turning. Anyway with the cover off it seams the noise is coming from the whole carrier assembly. Does anyone have any directions for removal of the pig or exploded views of the pig? This was not what I was thinking of doing to my new truck the week I got it. maybe someone knows a good shop in michigan that works on diffs???
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2003 7.3 4x4 CrewCab Stock as heck for now.
Yea, that is one of the things I wouldn't try to tackle myself. There are to many "Tricks" to them, getting the gear lash right, and such. I suppose if you have done several it wouldn't be so bad. But I know if you make a mistake, your NEW gears, won't last long...and you may not know it until it's too late.
Good luck, I would either take it to a shope, (They can change the gears in the truck,or remove the diff, and take it down to a shop.)
Probably wouldn't save a ton that way,,,
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Jim T.*48* SLAPS Co-Founder, 30.8 yrs RETIRED UAW 6/01/06, Now an ART (Specialists Flight Chief) with the USAFR 414th MXS Seymour Johnson AFB. My pics!'03 Dually pics!, New truck, 2011 F-350 SRW LB CC. White Platinum Lariat! 4x4
It could possibly just be the carrier bearings that are bad rather than the ring gear & pinion. If so you can carefully replace these yourself. Remove the wheels,brakes, and hubs then slide the axles out far enough to get the carrier out. Remove the caps holding the bearings (be sure to mark them) and then pry out the entire carrier assy.(may be a little tight due to bearing pre-load but it will come out)
You can re-use the shims if you don't damage them when pressing the bearings off. I have my own press but you can probably get a local shop just to do the pressing off/on for you. If the shims do get damaged you can get replacement ones.
Just be SURE to use the same thickness that comes off on each side in order to keep the backlash correct.
If the pinion bearings are bad as well then it gets more complicated. You then will have to deal with bearing pre-load and possibly pinion depth. I do these frequently for off-road Jeeps/rigs but it does take some experience to set them up properly to ensure correct engagement and long life! Also requires some special tools. If it's all s%$t wrecked take it to a reputable shop!
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Early '99 F250 SD, 4X4, SuperCab, Long Bed, 7.3L "PowerStroke" Diesel, Auto, PMT1 PCM w/DPTuner 80 tow, 190K miles,
Volant intake, ISSPRO gauges, BDS front leveling kit, 4" straight piped, Dick Cepek 18x9 DC1-Chrome, Nitto Terra Grappler 325/65R18,
Pro GOD, Pro Guns, Pro Life Important Notice, Pro Life changes when someone breaks in.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: AggiePSD</div><div class="ubbcode-body">If you don't have a press and it is just the carrier bearings, torch the old ones off and hammer on the new ones. Careful not to cut the shims. </div></div>
That's more of a semi-pro maneuver. if your not what you would consider a torch wielding expert than I wouldn't try this on your own.
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00'F350 psd CC Drw 2wd Bright Amber Western Hauler, exhaust brake transfer flow 50 gal tank tool, 30K Cody goose neck hitch, hawk pads, cryo'ed rotors, stainless lines, 380,000 miles
02' Psd Excursion Limited ultimate Estate Green 7.3L Auto 2x4 hellwig swaybars and rancho 9000's. 381,000 miles.
1993 F-superduty (F-450) 7.3L Gutless non turbo 2x4 Auto, Tire eating S.O.B. 12,750lbs 80,000miles lincoln Vantage 500 Duetz bolted in the back.
1994 7.3 I.D.I.T. factory turbo, auto 2x4 DRW with lots of upgrades, 11 transmissions under 100K factory warranty. 280,000 miles Currently Cavitated and parked.
96 F-800 24'flat 5.9L cummins, 4spd allison juice brakes.
89 F-800 6.6L 5+2 27,00lbs light weight with National 556A crane behind the cab.
2006 T800 KW 550 C-15 18spd 22K front, 52K rears murray ramps, 195" W.B. CA spec heavy haul SOLD
2006 Murray 16 tire professional lowbed SOLD
1996 fetherlite 4 horse GN, Walton 18' 14K tag tilt equipment trailer.
OH I would take that thing to a shop someplace.... You got all kinds of things to check out if it was running dry for that long... End seals, pinion bearings, preload.... all kinds of things to replace. And to pull the Axles You have to take the front end apart.... And that is just more work then I want to deal with myself. Could I do it... Yes... would I want to.... No... time to whip out the old company plastic and let someone handle it for me....
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2000 F350 Dual, Crew cab, 8ft bed, "The great white beast", Banks modified Garret turbo, Banks Exhaust, 3.73, 4WD, Super chips, Bullydog Trans shift pack, Auto meter gauges, 6.0 tranny cooler, Zoodad mod, SP EBPV/Trans controller, CCV mod coming soon, Foil delete, DIY Tymar and funky running boards.
To do the job properly, you will need a case spreader. I realize prying it out will work, but it goes in nice and easy with a spreader. if you wre not familiar with differentials, I would take it somewhere. Unless you want to learn, then tackle it. it's fun!!
After re-reading the OP I think you would be better off taking it to a reputable shop. I was thinking that you might possibly save some cash by checking/repairing it yourself if it was just the carrier bearings gone bad as this is a very labor-intensive repair.
If it were mine I would completely disassemble it and check everything! As I mentioned in my reply this is TRICKY and requires special tools including as the last poster stated, a case spreader (not absolutely necessary but VERY helpful). I have all the tools but I'm sure that most folks don't. Good Luck with the repair and CHECK THOSE FLUIDS OFTEN!
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Early '99 F250 SD, 4X4, SuperCab, Long Bed, 7.3L "PowerStroke" Diesel, Auto, PMT1 PCM w/DPTuner 80 tow, 190K miles,
Volant intake, ISSPRO gauges, BDS front leveling kit, 4" straight piped, Dick Cepek 18x9 DC1-Chrome, Nitto Terra Grappler 325/65R18,
Pro GOD, Pro Guns, Pro Life Important Notice, Pro Life changes when someone breaks in.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 69mach1377</div><div class="ubbcode-body">How do you check and fill the front diff? I could not find the plug like on the rear diff... </div></div>
It's there. Look again.
Joe
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2002 F350, Crew Cab, 4WD, ISSOPRO Gauges,
3.73, Auto, 2wd low range mod, No door dinger,
Interior lights off switch, Zoodad Mod,
Extra Trans Cooler, Before coolers trans fltr,
Coolant fltr, Crimestopper remote start/alarm
Oil Guard Bypass, Air horns
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