Front hub needle bearings took a poop on me whipped out outter stub axles - Diesel Forum

PatDoody · 10-14-2009, 09:57 PM

I know just the outer stub axles are available I think p/n: 4C3Z-3B387-AA but looking at my old set of axles, the u-joints don't look removable, does anyone have a write up on how to change these out? and where do I find the replacement u joints? thanks in advance

some pics of the fun...

**klhansen** · 10-14-2009, 10:16 PM

That's some fine looking bearings there.

The axle u-joints cups are held in place with c-clips on the interior side of the yokes. Roll the clips out with a small punch and hammer. The U-joints are indeed replaceable, but can be a bugger to get loose. A bit of impact is probably the way to get them to move. A standard u-joint/ball joint press has too small a hole for the cups to go thru, so you need to use something else.

U-joints are available from Ford or about any parts house.

Front Axle U-joint (KIT-FRONT AXLE SHAFT U)
F81Z-3249-AA
Should be $25 or so each.

I have the same PN you posted for the outer stub shaft. It should also be available from a driveline shop, very likely for less than Ford would sell it for.

PatDoody · 10-14-2009, 10:16 PM

F81Z-3249-AA looks like the front u-joints

Your Premiere Source for Ford Truck Parts and Accessories

35.00 a piece... not how do they come off the axle assembly I don't see and circlips or snap rings like other universals.

dlblazer · 10-15-2009, 08:42 AM

The clips are below the bearing cup on the u-joint. I'll see if I can find a picture somewhere.

**danielcward** · 10-15-2009, 08:53 AM

When I changed mine I cut the ujoints off and pounded them out leaving the uncut side attached to the old stub shaft that needed replacing. That way I could pound them out one at a time. To get them out intact will probably take quite a bit of snort.

I'm not sure how far you intend to go, but if I were tearing things as far apart as you will need, I'd replace stub shaft, ujoint, main hub and seals. Powerstrokeshop.com has the ball joint kit for about $290 (this covers both sides) and the front hub for $312. The stub shaft and ujoint will run about $125-150 depending on where you get them.

PatDoody · 10-15-2009, 03:30 PM

Yeah I plan on replacing everything on the front end... Stub axles u joints bearings Hubs Ball joints... Thanks the info on the universal I am gonna look at it close when I get home

PatDoody · 10-17-2009, 01:53 AM

Okay so I went through and figured out everything I needed. I planned on putting an order in through powerstrokeshop.com but when I goto check out I get a page not found 404 error... is this place a legit business.. Their website seems to be pretty shoddy, I just dont want to know before I send 800.00 of my hard earned money to a possible fly by night internet company..

FMTRVT · 10-17-2009, 08:30 AM

Yep, they're legit. I've bought from them in the past and they are well known with members on this site for years. Their web site is not as good as some other Ford dealerships as you state.

**danielcward** · 10-17-2009, 08:49 AM

I bought an AIS from them a couple months ago and don't remember any problems.

PatDoody · 10-18-2009, 10:27 AM

Good deal I put my order in ladtnight... The lack of their we site not having a secured server cert kinda scared me... Thanks again guys

Stroken03 · 01-09-2010, 02:43 PM

Hi, I have to do the same job. Is there a link that shows the details of the job from start to finish. I have a grinding noise in the right wheel when I make a left hand turn at slow speeds and have replaced everything except the stub shaft and u-joint. Any help would be great!

**klhansen** · 01-09-2010, 02:55 PM

Here's a writeup on replacing ball joints. Covers everything you need to know except the u-joint replacement.

TheDieselStop.Com - www.thedieselstop.com

PSD_noobie · 01-09-2010, 05:24 PM

I am currently finishing up replacing the U-joints, ball joints, o-rings, needle bearings, vacuum lines and fittings. I also serviced the hubs per Guzzle's Autolock Hub Lubrication and Needle Bearing Service write-ups. (they are invaluable). I also used James (jat99) Ball joint write-up. There is another ball joint write up here

Shop around on the internet. I spent a lot of time researching prices. I found just about the best price around for Moog serviceable ball joints on their website, then was able to get them through Kragen, who will price match. Just print out the Moog web page showing the pricing, and take it with you. I also 'rented' the press tool kit at Kragen/O'Reilly'Schucks. Basically you buy it, and then they refund when you return it. SWEET deal, it's a $200 kit!

I also bought the special tool for seating the vacuum seals. It was $80 through Amazon (eTool Direct), and I really didn't want to spend that money, but after using it, I was very happy I did, as I didn't destroy $100 of vacuum seals. This tool is turned out of a solid log of steel. You can use it as a 25-pound dumbbell when you are finished!

Got some parts through RockAuto, and the yellow O-Rings through Ford.

So my question. I have everything disassembled, cleaned, new parts pressed in, one side of the truck is done, just buttoning up the driver side. My question is how do you tell if your hub bearings are bad? I did have water get into the system, due to the rotted vacuum hoses. (Seriously, what are those made of? They turn into what looks like printer toner!) There was some minimal rust, which cleans up pretty easily. BUT, there is goo that has been slung out of the hub assembly, and it looks to be coming from the hub bearing. The bearing itself moves smoothly, with that 'hydraulic' resistance feel. In the attached pic, you can see the greenish grease that seems to be right along the diameter where the bearing halves mate. Is this an indication of a bearing that has failed or soon will? Other than that grease, it looks and feels ok...

The second question has to do with the sleeve that adjusts alignment, that the upper ball joint stud passes through. In the pic, you can see that it is not fully seated in the hole in the axle yoke. It is catching the flat side, but it just doesn't look 'right'. When I got the knuckle out, that sleeve dropped down easily another 1/2". The reason I started this job was because I was getting a twitchy ride, like the truck was jiggling. I thought it was worn ball joints, but now I think now that came from this alignment sleeve not being properly set, allowing the tire to wear strangely.

Anyway, if anyone can offer their thoughts or advice, I would greatly appreciate it, and thanks in advance!

Happy New Year!

noob

PSD_noobie · 01-09-2010, 05:41 PM

showing installed and loose...

I read that you asked how to change these out...here is my experience...no pics though, sorry!

I used the same rental kit for pressing ball joints. I couldn't find a receiving sleeve in the kit that would allow the u-joint cap to move outwards, so I ended up buying a 35mm socket to double as the receiving tube. Big enough for the u-joint cap to move into and small enough to land on the outside of the axle yoke.
First remove the clips. I used a big blade screwdriver and a hammer. Just tap on one end and they will slide out.
To get the u-joint out, you have to press it through to one side, pull off the cap, then press it back through the opposite side. I soaked the caps at the yoke with WD-40 and started cranking...I had to put a 5' length of pipe on breaker bar to get them to pop. and the do POP. I thought I blew out the ratchet handle! Just take your time and crank slow.
When I put in the greaseable u-joints, the zerk fitting is slightly angled to one side. I made sure that it would angle towards the truck when installed. Maybe it wasn't necessary, but I didn't want it angled toward the wheelworks.
When pressing the new u-joint in, make sure the caps slide on straight, I started mine with light taps using a hammer. Be careful not to knock the needle bearings out of the cap. A little wad of grease will help hold them in a little better. I cranked until I had just enough groove width available to get the clip in on one cap. After I got the first clip in, I used that 35mm socket over the cap that was now clipped, so that I didn't push that cap in any further. The opposite cap, same thing, just enough to get that clip on. Make sure the clip is completely seated in it's groove. Squeeze some grease in there and it should all move silky sexy smooth when you are done!

also a pic showing the new vacuum seal installed...there is about a .060" step between the face of the axle and the face of the seal...that is what the special tool sets properly...

noob

**TousleyParts** · 01-09-2010, 06:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PatDoody

Good deal I put my order in ladtnight... The lack of their we site not having a secured server cert kinda scared me... Thanks again guys

Sorry for the salesman bit, but if they do not come through for you, give our website a try www.tousleyfordparts.com or give us a call

And while we are pretty new venders on this particular website, just check our forum out on www.svtperformance.com for www.focaljet.com. We have been on those sites for about four years. Just want everyone to know we are not some fly by night company

Thanks!