I just did a complete axle overhaul on my 2002. Here are some things to consider:
1. If you are running big tires, the wheel hub bearing may be stressed more and fail at lower mileage. If the hub wobbles when you push/pull on tire at 20:00 and 6:00 good chances are it's shot. I run stock tires, and at 110K, one was about to go, and the other was fine. If its ok, the spindle needle bearings in the center of the hub supporting the outer axle shaftshould be checked and re-packed if not shot. They can be removed and new units pressed in to the existing hub. If the spindle bearing is bad, then you will also need to check the outer axle stub shaft for wear. The bearing is about $10 at napa, and you can get just the outer stub axle shaft if needed. The link at the end has part numbers.
2. Get new knuckle seals and axle dust seals, and a new o-ring for the inside of the hub bearing assembly. When you pull the axle, all these need to be replaced. You will need a seal installer for the knuckle seal. You can buy one or make one as shown in the link at the end of this message. OTC tools has one for about $60. If you have autolock vaccum hubs, any leaks in the knuckle or hub o-ring can cause moisture and corrosion on the inside of the knuckle. I had switched mine over to warn manual hubs and plugged the vac line outside the knuckle to prevent moisture from entering the inside of the knuckle.
3. If you have never replaced your axle u-joints, and/or ball joints and you are nearing 100K, do it now when it's all torn down. And get greasable joints, and be religious about greasing them. One note, when you install the u-joints in the axle shafts, align the grease fitting hole so it is under compression when under forward motion from the axle. Although you can get heavy duty u-joints, this hole is the weak point, and would do better under compression than the tension forces pulling at it. I left my zerks in which did not cause a clearance issue. If you do the ball joints, you can leave the lower ball joint zerk in, and grind down the upper to clear travel of the u-joint or replace it with the included threaded cap after each service.
4. Here is a link someone forwarded me when I started the procedure. It was easy to follow, and answered just about all my questions, and gave part numbers.
Ball Joint Replacement Write-Up For Ford F250 F350 Super Duty
Good luck. The advice and direction on this site made it easy.
i have to change the whole knockle out was wonder what all i should replace while im that far into the front?
Linear Mode
