99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke Engine and DrivetrainDiscussion of the 99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 1999-Up Super Duty trucks and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 7.3L Power Stroke engine.
Hi all,
Iv'e never used any additives in my 2000 PSD and with 138,000 it runs fine. But with this ulsd fuel I'm rethinking the matter. Would it be a good idea to use an additve, and if so what,{Hopefully affordable)? Iv'e heard that Lucas makes a good fuel additve does anybody know anything about this products performance in PSD's.
Thanks in advance guy's.
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PROUD owner of a 2000 7.3 PSD, 4x4, auto tranny, stock (probably forever), running Cooper 265's, excellent U.S. of A. made tire!
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2002 F-350 SRW Lariat,4X4, PSD with too many goodies to list. 182k and a very strong 7.3. SOLD
2008 F-250, SC Lariat, 4X4,Shortbed, Pueblo Gold/black, V-10, 4.10, auto, Delivered on 9/7/07, great looking rig. South Texas bumpers front/rear, Air Raid Intake System, Diablosport Predator, Magnaflow, Husky's, JJ's, Ford alarm/remote start, Marathon seat covers, Sirius, PIAA, Access cover, Weatherguard tool box, Rhino liner, Michelins, Duraflap mud flaps, Escort 9500i, MagHytec rear dif cover.
2007 Lincoln LT (wifer's grocery getter),Superchip,Magnaflow duels, K&N dropin, Leer Browning Special
1996 Ford Bronco EB; almost stock
2007 Kubota 900 RTV diesel with goodies. pappy's truck
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Would it be a good idea to use an additve, and if so what,{Hopefully affordable)?
[/ QUOTE ]
No, you don't need any fuel additive.
When they remove almost all the sulfur from the new ULSD, they reduce the lubricity. But the Feds insist they add lubricity back in before it meets the requirements for highway diesel fuel. So if you trust Big Brother to enforce the law, and Big Oil to comply with the law, then adding anything to your fuel is a big waste of money.
However, some folks don't trust either Big Brother or Big Oil. So they pour snake oil in their fuel tank. There are lots of snake oils available for you to spend your money on. But if you're worried about lubricity, then buy a lubricity formula. Stanadyne makes one. http://www.dieselpage.com/add3.htm
There is one fuel additive that is sometimes necessary. If the ambient temp goes way below what the refinery expected when they blended your winter-blend fuel, then you might want to add some anti-gel. Don't pour it in all the time, but keep it in the toolbox in case a cold snap comes along that is much colder than the weatherman forecasted. Stanadyne makes one of those too. http://www.dieselpage.com/add5.htm
But most fuel additives - including some marketed by Stanadyne - are a mixed up mess of "performance" ingredients that the SAE tests show are almost worthless. Snake oil of all types has been sold in auto parts stores for over 100 years, and some folks buy it. The fact you have 138,000 miles on your rig, and I have 157,000 miles on mine, without any fuel additives, should indicate you probably don't need any. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/warmsmile.gif[/img]
This is not just my opinion. Read your Ford PSD supplement to the Owner's Guide. Mine says: "It should not be necessary to add any aftermarket additives to your fuel tank if you use a properly formulated diesel fuel that meets ASTM D 975 industry specification. Aftermarket additives can damage the injector system or engine."
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My Sierra Blanca in the sig pic was a great pickup for 11.5 years. I sold it last year. Replacement is a 2012 F-150 EcoBoost SuperCrew Lariat.
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Smokey,
You stated above that most fuel additives - including some marketed by Stanadyne - are a mixed up mess of "performance" ingredients that the SAE tests show are almost worthless.
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Smokey, It took me awhile but I'm learning like many others to start ignoring your replies.
With all due respect my opinion is that you don't know what you are talking about regarding Stanadyne but that's just my opinion so please disprove my opinion by posting those SAE tests naming Stanadyne that you stated above or are you just full of smoke.
I'm of the opinion that Smokey is correct, but I use 4 ounces of Stanadyne Performance Formula per 20 gals of Diesel because I worked in refineries for many years and happen to know that Diesel is a little inconsistent and some can stand to have the Cetane number improved, even though they may meet MINIMUM requirements. Also, Diesel fuel is sold with a certain amount of H2O in it. Stanadyne just makes ME feel better. Another also, I try to use #2 Diesel year around here, so I want the anti-gel properties that Stanadyne adds to the fuel.
ULSD should be compatible with about every Diesel out there.
__________________
2003 KR F-250 4X4 CC SWB, 6.0, 5 Speed Auto, 3.73 Axle, no Limited slip. Rhino bedliner, Unicover bed cover.
Built on February 19, '03
#2 93 F-150 XLT, 5 Liter, Auto, 4X4, X Cab. 251,000 miles. Uses no oil between changes.
I use Stanadyne Performance Formula periodically. It addresses lubricity, emulsifies water, improves the cetane rating, and lowers the wax point of the fuel. I think that is important in the colder months. It is a "catch-all" type of additive and made by a reputable company.
For the most part additives are not necessary in ULSD. Lubricity additives are required by law to replace the lubricity lost during the sulfur removal process. Fuel is also adjusted locally (winterized fuel) to lower the wax point in winter. Generally, the specification for the central portion of the USA is 0 degrees F. Some distributors further cut the fuel with #1 Diesel to lower the wax point, which also lowers lubricity. Thus, many prefer to use additives to assure that the lubricity is replaced.
I also like to run a biodiesel blend. This improves lubricity and cetane, but raises the wax point of the fuel. Thus, I treat the fuel in winter to raise the wax point. Despite the fact that Stanadyne does not recommend thier treatment for biodiesel, my own experiments with B100 mixed with the recommended amount of Stanadyne Performance Formula, seems to indicate that it does, in fact, work.
I think that it is an individual choice, but if you are a belt and suspenders kind of person, want to protect your injectors, and would like (or need) to lower the wax point of your fuel, some fuel additives can make sense. Stanadyne and Power Service are two that I know work. I can't vouch for any others.
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2003 F-250 4X4 Lariat Crew Cab 156" WB, Arizona Beige over Black, 7.3 PSD,Superchips 1705 "tow safe", auto, 3.73 limited slip, X-Monitor, ARE hard tonneau cover, Line-X bed liner, Ford splash guards, vent visors, hood wind deflector, 50 gal Transfer Flow in-bed tank, Powerslot cryo rotors (front) with Hawk LTS pads, Ford AIS with fender sleeve, V3 Back-up Camera, Marinco mod.
I have used Power Services on a tank by tank basis since I bought my truck back in December of 99. I use the white bottle for its anti-gel properties as well as added lubricity. I also use the gray bottle. It provides added lubricity as well as a boost in cetane level.
I personally am more interested in the increased lubricity more than anything else. I just want to get as long a life as possible out of my injectors.
Stanadyne and Howes are other brand names to similar Power Services.
For me Power Services is the most readily available at local truck stops and WalMart.
__________________ Rex
Orig. Name: Rex-a-FORD
Reged: 2/22/01
Post: 1878
+ - + - + - + - + - + - + - + - + - + - + - + - + - + - + Early 99 [3/98], F-350, XLT, PSD, DP Tuned PMT1 6-Pos, 10.5 MPG Avg., 60,576 miles, CC, DRW, 4x4, ESOF, 4.10LS, BTS To Be Installed 9/7/11, TT & C-Betr Mirrors, 4" DP & Exhaust, Isspro Gauges, DEI Sidewinder Remote Start & Keyless Entry My Truck - - My Authentic Dale Isley Tymar Intake - - My Heater Control Valve Mod
Email: rhansen@machlink.com
I agree with RexaFord, Power service in the white bottle for winter use and the gray bottle for summer. I have used it for increased Lubricity since I bought the truck with 21K on it and it now has 55K after almost 4 years. It surely doesn't harm my truck, and I believe it does run a little better so I will continue to use it. If you believ that the goverment/ refineries or whoever is doing this, replaced what they took out with a substance as good as what they removed fine. I don't have the confidence. I think they probably used the cheapest agent they could find in order to get to pass the min requirements. With goverment and the fuel companies it is all about profits, the more the better.
Smokey also said that it was impossible for the new fuel to create any fuel leaks. It sure does seem the percentage of fuel leaks has increased dramatically and the only common factor is they all ran a few tanks of the new fuel. Think the refineries will admit this? Doubtful.
I will continue to use my PS unless somebody can prove to me that it is harmful to my truck. I would use the Stanadyne if I could find it locally.
It's your truck decide for yourself.
__________________
NCH
2000 Ford F350 4X4 Auto,Crew Cab Lariat, Western Hauler Package, Long bed,
Isspro EV Guages on A-Pillar, Coolant change from Green to Gold to Red,
SCT XCalibrator2 with DP's 60 tow,80 econo,120 Race
Fumoto Valve, Marinco Mod, Homemade CCV MOD,Fuel Neck Mod, KMC Wheels at all 4's
Monroe Reflex Shoxs, SS/Kevlar Brake Lines,
FTVB from Greg Evans,Ford AIS Intake
Coolant filter,Walker BTM, Attwood Gooseneck ball flush mount,6.0 cooler, 2002 headlights & corners
Zoodad Mod,Cyro'd Powerslots and Hawks LTS Pads. 2005 front grill
Turbo Lifesaver, Infinity Refrence x4, powered by Infinity Reference amp, sounds awesome!!
Towing a 2005 HORNET 30BHSS 8500 LBS,
Stopping it with a Prodigy P3 Controller
Friends Don't Let Friends Drive Trucks With Generic Tunes!!
So they pour snake oil in their fuel tank...There are lots of snake oils available for you to spend your money on...Snake oil of all types has been sold in auto parts stores for over 100 years, and some folks buy it.
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By jlrsn:
Smokey, It took me awhile but I'm learning like many others to start ignoring your replies.
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jlrsn, we call those "Snake oil" posts. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif[/img]
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By SmokeyWren:
I have 157,000 miles on mine, without any fuel additives
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Then you are hardly qualified to tell us how they work.
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By SmokeyWren:
SAE tests show are almost worthless.
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More snake oil.
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By NChornet:
Smokey also said that it was impossible for the new fuel to create any fuel leaks.
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Smokey doesn't know what he's talking about. The desulfurization process of refining ULSD removes additional aromatics from the fuel. This additional removal of aromatics can cause seals to shrink and crack, particularly older seals. The Europeans, who have been running ULSD for a while now, already experienced this. We are just starting to see it here (have you read all the fuel leak posts lately?).
You may not "need" additives, but there are benefits to using them.
Cetane is a big one. It defines the fuel's ability to combust, particularly during cold starts. Diesel fuels are required to have a cetane of only 40. But our PSD's are somewhat sensitive to cetane levels, and even International has recommended using fuels with a higher cetane content. Fuel additives can increase the cetane sometimes 5 points, allowing for quicker cold starts and a more complete burn of the fuel. Increasing cetane can also indirectly effect fuel ignition timing, which relates to noise, power, and economy.
Water dispersement, anti-icing, reduced filter plugging and gelling benefits all speak for themselves. New ULSD has reduced aromatics. Reducing aromatics raises the temperature at which cold weather gelling and filter plugging occur.
Biocide additives are also beneficial in removing the algae and scum that can evenually build up in your fuel tank and fuel lines. Running a tank full through your fuel system just prior to changing your fuel filter is always a good idea and sound maintenance.
Lubricity additives are always beneficial. All diesel fuels are supposed to contain the proper amount of lubricity. But in the past that hasn't always been the case. We don't have injection pumps, so it's not as critical with the PSD, but our injectors still need lubricity. Here, more is better.
Other additives provide other benefits. For example, some can help to remove zinc, carbon, and metal components from the injector tips, keeping your spray pattern good.
Are fuel additives something you "need"? Maybe not. Are they beneficial? Yes. They certainly aren't "snake oil".
[ QUOTE ]
[ QUOTE ]
Would it be a good idea to use an additve, and if so what,{Hopefully affordable)?
[/ QUOTE ]
No, you don't need any fuel additive.
When they remove almost all the sulfur from the new ULSD, they reduce the lubricity. But the Feds insist they add lubricity back in before it meets the requirements for highway diesel fuel. So if you trust Big Brother to enforce the law, and Big Oil to comply with the law, then adding anything to your fuel is a big waste of money.
However, some folks don't trust either Big Brother or Big Oil. So they pour snake oil in their fuel tank. There are lots of snake oils available for you to spend your money on. But if you're worried about lubricity, then buy a lubricity formula. Stanadyne makes one. http://www.dieselpage.com/add3.htm
There is one fuel additive that is sometimes necessary. If the ambient temp goes way below what the refinery expected when they blended your winter-blend fuel, then you might want to add some anti-gel. Don't pour it in all the time, but keep it in the toolbox in case a cold snap comes along that is much colder than the weatherman forecasted. Stanadyne makes one of those too. http://www.dieselpage.com/add5.htm
But most fuel additives - including some marketed by Stanadyne - are a mixed up mess of "performance" ingredients that the SAE tests show are almost worthless. Snake oil of all types has been sold in auto parts stores for over 100 years, and some folks buy it. The fact you have 138,000 miles on your rig, and I have 157,000 miles on mine, without any fuel additives, should indicate you probably don't need any. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/warmsmile.gif[/img]
This is not just my opinion. Read your Ford PSD supplement to the Owner's Guide. Mine says: "It should not be necessary to add any aftermarket additives to your fuel tank if you use a properly formulated diesel fuel that meets ASTM D 975 industry specification. Aftermarket additives can damage the injector system or engine."
Kinda selective on how you throw out, or use yourself, the Ford PSD supplement information. For instance, it also says in the same manual you quote that power program changes are not recommended yet you have them on your truck. You profile indicates that you replaced your transmission with a BTS and replaced the air intake system. Not that I disagree with those mods but that is what they are, mods. Improvement, well that is subjective best judged by the user. I could say, using your logic above, that you probably don't need that BTS or EDGE program because my truck has comparable miles and hasn't needed either. What I can quantify for you is that my truck runs smoother and quieter using an fuel additive like PowerService or Stanadyne. It is worth it to me and I take it as an insult when someone with a similar inclination to not follow the PSD guide reduces my preference and in parallel questions my judgment by comparison to "snake oil". If that is so then we are both oily. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/biggrin.gif[/img]
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2002 F250 7.3L PSD, bought new now at 195K miles, 4R100 Auto, Crew Cab, Short Bed, ITP Regulated Fuel Return system, ITP head to head SS oil cross over, Hutch in tank mod
Harpoon de tank vent, DIESELSITE Dahl 100 Pre-Pump Fuel Filter, DIESELSITE Return Fuel Line Cooler, DIESELSITE Engine Coolant Filter, DIESELSITE Auxilliary Transmission Cooler, DIESELSITE Gage Package, Pyro, Trans & Boost, Extreme Diesel AD injectors, Ford AIS Air Filter System, BTM straight through muffler, Moog Ball Joints, Rancho Shocks, Rotella ELC Coolant ,Stock Engine Program
Modified for I-Pod Connection
We b playing Scotland The Brave to Jimmy Hendrix
Gooch, I see that you and Smokey are both pretty senior members here, and I have read a lot of Smokey's posts. I guess I have never viewed him the same as some of you. I certainly can't say I agree with everthing anyone posts on here, but it does make for interesting reading, and if it wasn't, why would we stay here?
Like I say, I use Stanadyne every fill up, snake oil or not, I don't know, but it makes ME feel good, even if it doesn't do anything for my truck. I BELIEVE it does.
__________________
2003 KR F-250 4X4 CC SWB, 6.0, 5 Speed Auto, 3.73 Axle, no Limited slip. Rhino bedliner, Unicover bed cover.
Built on February 19, '03
#2 93 F-150 XLT, 5 Liter, Auto, 4X4, X Cab. 251,000 miles. Uses no oil between changes.
Hey Smokey, I run PS, acetone, and 2-stroke oil.
Sometimes I dump some old trans fluid or motor oil in there after I filter it through a paper towel.
Guess I'm a snake handler.
__________________
2000 PSD Haulin Hot Rod
Terminator Oil, Big Ole single squirts, BB turbo, custom tuned chip, a lot of other junk to keep it together [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img]
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