99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke Engine and DrivetrainDiscussion of the 99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 1999-Up Super Duty trucks and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 7.3L Power Stroke engine.
New to a diesel truck. Had issues truck ran rough then finally died. Thought water in diesel. Added additives, new fuel water filter tried to start but would not. Thougt battery might be low, charged them both. Would not start. Talked to friend and thought two things. Possibly the CPS or the fuel pump. Drained the fuel filter and then thurned key on, several time. The filter bowl would not fill. So thought it was the pump. Have removed pump. (BTW what tool is needed to rmove the outlet line). Hooked pump direct to battery and it did pump. Any thoughts?
If your pump is running hooked up to a battery directly, but you are not getting fuel in the truck, this can be three things:
1. bad fuel pump relay
2. blown fuel pump fuse or damaged wires.
3. plugged fuel line from the pump to the bowl.
simple check if it is 1 or 2: When you turn of your "ignition", the fuel pump should run for about 20 seconds. You should hear the pump running. If you cannot hear the pump, check fuse and relay. If both are good, check if you have power at the terminals.
Hope this helps to get you in the right direction.
__________________ Eriol: 2002 F350 PSD Lariat SCSB 4WD 4R100; 396,000 km as of Dec. 2011 actual: AFe Stage 1 Air Intake, 4" straight pipe Exhaust, Edge Evolution 2 programmer, running 65% SVO in tank.
guzzle's in-tank fuel mod (hutch mod and harpoon mod). thank you guzzle. 586-902 stancor glow plug relay moved out of the valley. Baldwin 1212 pre-pump filter modification. Always bright OHC. in process: A-Pillar gauges: Fuel temp at bowl, switchable fuel pressure in bowl before and aft filter, fuel temp at in-exhaust fuel heater and in fuel return line. billgart inspired back-up / working lights in rear bumper, CCV modification (will design my own and document it, plan this to be my first write-up), AIH delete (relay mod done) planned: guzzle's TC lock-up, regulated fuel return Cedric: 1991 Jeep Cherokee Laredo Zebra, 5spd. trans. 4WD, 4.0l
simple check if it is 1 or 2: When you turn of your "ignition", the fuel pump should run for about 20 seconds. You should hear the pump running. If you cannot hear the pump, check fuse and relay. If both are good, check if you have power at the terminals.
Used a multimeter and saw the power at the terminals. So I am pretty sure that the wiring is good.
Autozone rented me a fuel pump tester so in a day or two I should be able to test the pump to verify that it is putting up the pressure.
It probably wouldn't be the fuel line that gets plugged, however there are screens in the sending unit that can get gunked up beyond belief. There are mods you can search through where people go in and remove these screens.
..however there are screens in the sending unit that can get gunked up beyond belief. There are mods you can search through where people go in and remove these screens.
Yeah, the fuel pickup is in the tank. It has a foot with a coarse screen on it, and then the fuel runs thru two fine screens. They can plug up. It could also be that your suction line between the tank and fuel pump is letting air in, in which case it might be possible that the pump isn't drawing fuel out of the tank.
Quote:
Originally Posted by newtrucklady
Mods ?? I don't know what this means
Mod = Modification
Lots of guys have modified the fuel pickup to eliminate the mixing chamber with the fine screens and route the return line away from the fuel pickup to keep aerated fuel from being sucked back thru the pickup and into the engine. At the same time, most will replace the potentially leaky o-ring quick connects on the suction side of the fuel pump with clamped hose connections.
The mods it is getting referred to are the hutch and the harpoon mod.
They are named after the individuals who did first a write-up in forums about these mods.
go to this page: Welcome to guzzle's Ford PSD Web Pagesand you will find a lot of useful information.
This link is the write-up of the hutch and harpoon mod that I used to do mine: Welcome to guzzle's In-tank Hutch Mod Web Page
__________________ Eriol: 2002 F350 PSD Lariat SCSB 4WD 4R100; 396,000 km as of Dec. 2011 actual: AFe Stage 1 Air Intake, 4" straight pipe Exhaust, Edge Evolution 2 programmer, running 65% SVO in tank.
guzzle's in-tank fuel mod (hutch mod and harpoon mod). thank you guzzle. 586-902 stancor glow plug relay moved out of the valley. Baldwin 1212 pre-pump filter modification. Always bright OHC. in process: A-Pillar gauges: Fuel temp at bowl, switchable fuel pressure in bowl before and aft filter, fuel temp at in-exhaust fuel heater and in fuel return line. billgart inspired back-up / working lights in rear bumper, CCV modification (will design my own and document it, plan this to be my first write-up), AIH delete (relay mod done) planned: guzzle's TC lock-up, regulated fuel return Cedric: 1991 Jeep Cherokee Laredo Zebra, 5spd. trans. 4WD, 4.0l
Do the symptoms sound like they could be caused by plugged sending unit and screens? Dropping the fuel tank is probably not in the cards as I live in the northern most part of NY.
Would blowing air back into the fuel tank clear this at least temporarily.
Also any recomendations on how to test the fuel pump to see if it is putting up the pressure.
To determine if the fuel pump is good while not knowing if the pick-up in the tank is the problem, simply use a bucket full of fuel that you let the pump suck out of. Use a 3/8 injector hose, with two hose clamps on the fuel pump in side and hang the loose end into the bucket. You have eliminated the questionable pick-up out of the equation and you can verify if the fuel pump is bad. If the fuel pump is good, your pick-up is bad, if you have eliminated everything else.
If you have a heated garage or shop you can use, then you should be able to drop the tank and do the mods. I did mine as it was between -4 and +2 outside, with no shelter. Not the most appealing thing, but I needed to have the truck up and running again.
__________________ Eriol: 2002 F350 PSD Lariat SCSB 4WD 4R100; 396,000 km as of Dec. 2011 actual: AFe Stage 1 Air Intake, 4" straight pipe Exhaust, Edge Evolution 2 programmer, running 65% SVO in tank.
guzzle's in-tank fuel mod (hutch mod and harpoon mod). thank you guzzle. 586-902 stancor glow plug relay moved out of the valley. Baldwin 1212 pre-pump filter modification. Always bright OHC. in process: A-Pillar gauges: Fuel temp at bowl, switchable fuel pressure in bowl before and aft filter, fuel temp at in-exhaust fuel heater and in fuel return line. billgart inspired back-up / working lights in rear bumper, CCV modification (will design my own and document it, plan this to be my first write-up), AIH delete (relay mod done) planned: guzzle's TC lock-up, regulated fuel return Cedric: 1991 Jeep Cherokee Laredo Zebra, 5spd. trans. 4WD, 4.0l
I have removed the fuel pump, it pumps. I am going to activate it and get a pressure reading to make sure it is putting up the pressure. After that I am going to reinstall and do exactly what you suggest.
If it ends up being the tank I was thinking of just trying to put low pressure air back into the tank an see if I could blow off whatever is restricting flow.
Do you think this might work?
No heated garage and it might get allot colder here. well below 0 def F. I am lucky, we are going through a winter thaw.
I have removed the fuel pump, it pumps. I am going to activate it and get a pressure reading to make sure it is putting up the pressure. After that I am going to reinstall and do exactly what you suggest.
If it ends up being the tank I was thinking of just trying to put low pressure air back into the tank an see if I could blow off whatever is restricting flow.
Do you think this might work?
No heated garage and it might get allot colder here. well below 0 def F. I am lucky, we are going through a winter thaw.
Thanks
The air may work for a while. Be Careful and remove the filler cap first (not doing so could cause the tank to rupture or fuel to blow out on you when you remove the blow nozzle) also if the tank is full of fuel it may push some out of the filler cap. If it is clogged real bad it may cause the connection at the tank to fail also. If that fixes it you need to pull the tank and check it asap because you could have ruptured the screens in the tank with the air and this could cause trash to get in the fuel pump and damage it. Another option is if you have an aux or drag up fuel tank, you could just run off that until you can get it fixed. They are easy to install and real nice on long trips towing a trailer. Mine gives me around 1350 mile range between fill ups even towing a 5th wheel trailer.
ok
Tested the pump. It did pump and did reach 45 psig. Suction out of jar, powered by 12 v battery, discharge into line with pressure gauge that had a valve for bypassing. It did move the fuel.
Reinstalled the pump. (real fun laying in the snow) Had suction hose into a jug with diesel. When first turned on the key heard a pump sound, found suction hose out of the fuel. Got hose down into fluid and turned key. Pump was quiet. No fluid pumped. (level in jug did not go down).
I had checked that the pump was getting power with key on before so I think the pump is running.
Any ideas?
Anything in the line between the pump and the filter?
are you sure that the level in the jug is not dropping? The pump runs only for about 20 seconds when you turn the key. The fuel is getting pressurized in the bowl. The bowl has a pressure relieve valve that allows the excess fuel (pressure) to flow back to the tank. Technically speaking, you should be able by cycling the key to pump the fuel from the jug to the bowl into the tank. If this is not working, you have a restriction on the way pump-bowl-tank.
Another thing you could check is to hook up the pump to the tank suction line and leave the pressure side off. Use a bucket under it, as the fuel should come out with quiet a volume and speed. Turn your ignition on. If you get fuel, your tank pick-up is good (enough).
You were saying that you are at around 0 deg F? You might have frozen water dropplets somewhere in your fuel system. This can be hard to find. And they are restrictions (that are moving). Sometimes these fellows can be like hunting ghosts.
Just a thought.
__________________ Eriol: 2002 F350 PSD Lariat SCSB 4WD 4R100; 396,000 km as of Dec. 2011 actual: AFe Stage 1 Air Intake, 4" straight pipe Exhaust, Edge Evolution 2 programmer, running 65% SVO in tank.
guzzle's in-tank fuel mod (hutch mod and harpoon mod). thank you guzzle. 586-902 stancor glow plug relay moved out of the valley. Baldwin 1212 pre-pump filter modification. Always bright OHC. in process: A-Pillar gauges: Fuel temp at bowl, switchable fuel pressure in bowl before and aft filter, fuel temp at in-exhaust fuel heater and in fuel return line. billgart inspired back-up / working lights in rear bumper, CCV modification (will design my own and document it, plan this to be my first write-up), AIH delete (relay mod done) planned: guzzle's TC lock-up, regulated fuel return Cedric: 1991 Jeep Cherokee Laredo Zebra, 5spd. trans. 4WD, 4.0l
are you sure that the level in the jug is not dropping?
very sure, filled jug to top of label, fuel still at top of label.
Quote:
Originally Posted by eriol
The bowl has a pressure relieve valve that allows the excess fuel (pressure) to flow back to the tank. Technically speaking, you should be able by cycling the key to pump the fuel from the jug to the bowl into the tank. If this is not working, you have a restriction on the way pump-bowl-tank.
I am assuming that the pressure relief valve is at the outlet of the return to tank line. I did not take the filter cap off tonight to check as a had the o-rings inlarge of the first filter I purchased. I open the filter body drain line and no fuel came out. Perhaps I will leave the drain valve open and run the pump. If restriction is in the tank return line I should get fuel.
If I don't, any recommendation to try to clear line? Blow it out with air? Would need >45 as the pump is not clearing line.
Do not believe the fuel bowl as filled since the start of the problem.
In the tank return possibilty, would the engine at least try to crank, pressurized fuel would be there.
Quote:
Originally Posted by eriol
You might have frozen water dropplets somewhere in your fuel system. This can be hard to find. And they are restrictions (that are moving). Sometimes these fellows can be like hunting ghosts.
First thought was frozen fuel. Over weekend the got warm (in the high 40's) had charged batteries and still no start.
Just a thought but are we sure it is a fuel proplem. A lot of things can keep it from starting have you checked the sensor on top of the HPOP resvory, the HPOP or the IPR sensor. All of them and several others could cause this problem.
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