99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke Engine and DrivetrainDiscussion of the 99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 1999-Up Super Duty trucks and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 7.3L Power Stroke engine.
More reliable - there won't be any more current than in a properly working standard relay - its just the standard relay doesn't work properly very long...
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2003 F-250 XLT Crew Cab 7.3L, Chrome BigTex Grille Guard, Quad pillar - 3 ISSPRO gauges (trans, pyro, boost) and DP-Tuner F6; Roush fuel pressure / temperature / oil pressure gauges, Ford Severe Duty AIS, 31 row 6.0 transmission cooler, ScanGauge II, Marinco mod, Walker BTM
"IF YOU CAN'T FIX IT WITH A HAMMER, YOU’VE GOT AN ELECTRICAL PROBLEM"
I think I have an unused relay as I deleted the AIH. I half thought about wiring two relays together in parallel to reduce the current load on an individual relay. It probably would last a good long time not placed at or near rated load on contacts.
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2003 7.3 F250 SD SRW Auto DIY intake 285/70 1.5" Leveling Kit TS Performance 75 HP Chip
I think I have an unused relay as I deleted the AIH. I half thought about wiring two relays together in parallel to reduce the current load on an individual relay. It probably would last a good long time not placed at or near rated load on contacts.
I would keep it simple and change over to a Stancor. They are built to handle the current load.
Griz
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02 F250, 4X4, 4R100, 3.73, B&M Transmission Pan, Edge CTS Digital Gage, Tymar 4" Exhaust, Tymar Intake & HPX & TS 6 Position Chip. IH Bellowed Up-Pipes, RiffRaff AIH delete plug. 6.0 Transmission Cooler. Dieselsite Coolant filter & Transmission filter & 203 Thermostat & WW2 & TurboMaster and inter-cooler boots. BD CCV filter. Driven Diesel Fuel Tank Mod & Pre-Pump Filter. John Wood's valve body.
Griz, agreed but it would split the current draw between the two. In KY my GP are probably not needed year round. Am I correct in understanding that they remain on a full 2 minutes regardless of temperature of engine or ambient? If that is the case a timer or cutout based on some sort of input would reduce the total time the GP's are burning. This would allow the GP relay to live longer and possibly the GP's themselves.
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2003 7.3 F250 SD SRW Auto DIY intake 285/70 1.5" Leveling Kit TS Performance 75 HP Chip
I like my glow plug relay switch. I can turn the glow plugs off then start and have more juice for the starter. It turns over faster and still has heat in the cylinder. Works great for me.
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2001 F350 7.3 4x4 CC SRW/ Aeroforce Interceptor/ BD Thruster II/ Bellowed Up-Pipes/ 4" turbo back straight exhaust / CCV Mod /DIY 6637/ TS chip reburned with PHP tunes (Stock, 40 Tow WITH Whsiper tune, 80 Daily Driver, 100 Race, 140 Extreme, 140 smoke show)//Recon smoked cab lights/MM Hubs/Hood/HPx/FRx/GPR switch-Indicator
First vehicle (still driving): 96 F250 XLT 2x4- All factory (injectors & turbo) except straight exhaust. 570k miles
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