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99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain Discussion of the 99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 1999-Up Super Duty trucks and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 7.3L Power Stroke engine.

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Old 10-13-2012, 08:56 PM   #16 (permalink)
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The F250 a couple Winters ago had a real hard time starting. Replaced glow plugs, relay, batts and tested a bunch of stuff. Brought it to a diesel mechanic who said it needed a new PCM. Two Winters in a row never plugged in once fires up right away.
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Old 10-19-2012, 03:25 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Well folks
Thanks again to all of ya'
I contact FMC and the dealer who consented to tow the beast back to the shop. Initial second look has the starter crapped out. So maybe some of you are correct.
I will wait and see what furehter diagnosis reveals. Probably reveal how much more is in my wallet. I hope it really is the starter then I can drive until the next thing. Grrrrr.
Will keep you updated. Checked for wire chafe and cannot see an issue there.
RR
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Old 10-21-2012, 07:24 AM   #18 (permalink)
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Just wondering, how is your cold start problem progressing? Did you wind up replacing the starter?
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Old 10-22-2012, 03:22 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Update Fellers

I have to give credit where credit is due. I called FMC and the dealers and they actually communicated with one another. The Dealer sent a tow truck and dragged Cecil the Diesel back down the mountain to good old Mannington WV. They put a starter in it and it will start but only with the heater plugged in??? To top it off they gave me a rent car to drive while its in the shop. No charge.
It still takes awhile to get her to kick off and I would sure like to find out what that is. I am gonna let look some more.
EOT wiring looked good to me and the engine harness didn't have any wear spots. when it does fire up it goes right up. No stumbling. Power doesn't seem to be what it used to be before the dealer worked on it but no smoke except white when it is trying to start after a few tries. I figure that is fuel from trying so many times.
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Old 10-30-2012, 11:05 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Well folks,
I have a question for the forum.
If I had a marginally good starter could it affect the voltage needed to spin the engine?
Here is the observation that made me ask.
After the first visit with the stealership and $2200 I was trying to start the truck and that must have been the straw that broke the camels back. When the starter stopped working I could no longer introduce a charge to the batteries with a jump.
So I now have a new starter and its 30/40 ish here so I plug'er in. When I get time I will leave it unplugged and see if it will start because now it starts on the first crank and starts all day afterward. Of course it cost me another $1100 to find this out but they did a compression test and I am good there.
The dealer stuck with the recommendation I need 7 more new injectors but they want $375 per. Crazy! I can but them all day long from Swamps for 150 w/200k 5 year warranty. What bandits! They are afraid for me to quote their recommendations because they simply do not know whats broke. If I need'em I will do them myself but I am going to try Hot Shot's Secret Diesel Oil Additive first.
Anyone ever use the stuff before?
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Old 10-31-2012, 09:47 AM   #21 (permalink)
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Well forgetful old man that I am I didn't plug the truck in at work and didn't try starting all day. It got colder due to Hurricane Sandy's antics and lo and behold it don't start. Tries real hard but never actually catches. Plugged it in for and hour and a half and she started right up.
SOooo I am right back to where I was $3300 ago... except now it won't start in the daytime either. I guess cause it's gotten colder.
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Old 11-27-2012, 03:02 PM   #22 (permalink)
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For those of you that followed this thread and helped me work thru the less expensive options available I salute you!
I found this in a forum and not sure if it was this one but it explains all of the seemingly crazy symptoms I was seeing. This is a mechanical issue so no codes would be present. Read and enjoy!
Put my own injectors in for 3k less than the dealer quoted.
Powerstroke Injector Failure

Vehicles Effected: 1994‐2003 E and F series with 7.3L PowerStroke Engine

Concern: Effected vehicles will experience long cranking or no start during
start up after an extended cold snap. Once started the engine may
run rough for several minutes and poor engine performance will be
observed until engine oil temperature reaches operating
temperature. During the above conditions white smoke may be observed from the exhaust tailpipe.

Cause: Vehicles start to experience theses symptoms around half of the
B50 (see Appendix A) rating of the engine 260,000km (160,000miles) or equivalent hours of operation. Poor vehicle maintenance will shorten the
above mileage. The cause for this failure is wear of the lower poppet valve seat in the injector. This in turn lowers the position of the valve in the injector. The top of the poppet valve is attached to the armature plate with an armature screw. The armature is acted on by the solenoid to control oil movement into the injector.

Lower Poppet Valve Seat
In a new injector clearance between the armature plate and adapter housing of the injector is 0.004” Poppet valve wear will reduce this clearance to zero over time.

Armature Plate Clearance
Cause (cont.): Two issues will arise from this concern. The first is with a reduced clearance high viscosity oil will begin to cause a suction effect
between the armature and adapter housing. This suction is what causes inoperative injectors at start up. Performing a “buzz test” will isolate these injectors when cold by listening for a quiet or muted injector. No fault will be recorded in the scanner as this is an electrical test and the failure is mechanical. As engine oil heats up the viscosity lowers and suction acting on the armature is reduced and the injector begins to operate normally.
The second issue sees the armature screw itself break and cause the injector to be completely inoperative.
Conclusion: The obvious repair is injector replacement but it is recommended to follow all diagnostic procedures before coming to this conclusion.

Appendix A

It has become popular in the diesel engine business to describe engine durability in terms of "Bx life". This is usually described as B10 life; the time, in miles or hours of operation, that 10% of the units in service will require major repair. The remaining 90% will go farther. (Navistar's definition of major repair to an engine is when the repair requires removal of the cylinder head and/or the oil pan.) Other Bx numbers can be used, the next most popular being B50 life, where 50% of the engines will have required repair. This can be looked upon as "average" life to overhaul.
B10 B50
T444E 200,000 350,000

Last edited by Rowan Redfire; 11-27-2012 at 03:08 PM.
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Old 11-27-2012, 03:19 PM   #23 (permalink)
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By the way this article above came from Prince George Fuel Injector LTD. They are a contributing member of the Association for Diesel Specialists.
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Old 11-28-2012, 08:08 PM   #24 (permalink)
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So, you did put in new /rebuilt injectors and has that solved your problem?
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