Hard Start / No Start when warm

[wallysheata]

Thanks guys, i'm going to try and tackle this the first part of next week, the current plan is to order up an Oring kit, a set of glow plugs, and an international glow plug relay. So it sounds like i shouldn't mess with the IPR valve, just put a new Oring on it? Also, i remember reading about some wiring or clips under the valve cover that have a tendency to work loose, should i replace those, if so what exactly am i replacing? I'll take a look at the link here that TBpower posted up and bookmark.

I'm in the middle of building a jeep buggy and have built a handfull of rock crawlers so i should be able to tackle this The key is doing your homework before tearing into it and making sure you've read enough write ups and know what to look for...speaking of, what's the best way to drain the oil out of the cylinders?

[klhansen]

The plastic clips are a stopgap for weak latches on the Under Valve Cover harnesses. I'd recommend that you get one or two harnesses for when you do the job instead of messing with the clips. I've seen the latch break right off a harness (I was real close to it, in fact it was in my hands when I was trying to put the plastic clip on it ) Fortunately it was someone else's harness, LOL, but we were able to round up a replacement.

Here's some part #'s for you
Retainer (Under Valve Cover Harness clips)
Ford 2C3Z-14A163-AB ~$10 (for 3 little pieces of plastic )
Int’l 1844193C91
Wiring Harness, Injectors & glow plugs
Ford F81Z-9D930-AB ~$60
Int’l 1830844C93 ~$25

If you look at New Page 0, you'll see that there isn't much to go wrong with the IPR. I'd recommend the o-ring kit, which includes a new soleniod coil spacer and tin nut to hold it on along with the o-rings.
More part #'s
IPR O-ring kit
Ford 4C3Z 9C977 AA ~$28
Int’l 1825806C92 ~$18

For getting oil out of the cylinders, a friend who does a lot of work on 7.3's uses a medical vacuum pump - neat little motorized pump with a collection jar. I use a $5 plunger pump that I got at the parts store that's sold as a transfer pump. Made of plastic with inlet and outlet tubes. It works, but is a little messy to use (two person operation works best.) Anything with a suction tube that will fit thru the injector hole into the cylinder would do it, even a turkey baster with extension tube.
There are two small allen plugs along the upper VC gasket surface on each head that are supposed to be used to drain the oil rails, but they're slow and don't get all of it out anyway. As long as you suck the oil out of the cylinders, there's really no big need to drain the rails with those plugs. There will be some fuel that gets by the rings into the oil, in any case, so an oil change afterward is a good idea.

Good luck

[jayles]

Do the sea foam and the IPR Oring. I have a buddy after driving 15 min to work he had to let the truck sit for a couple of hours to allow the temp to cool off and the IPR was the problem.

[klhansen]

Originally Posted by jayles

Do the sea foam and the IPR Oring. I have a buddy after driving 15 min to work he had to let the truck sit for a couple of hours to allow the temp to cool off and the IPR was the problem.

That might be the first thing I would do without being able to personally run tests on it. If the IPR o-rings fix it, then you may not have to dig into the injectors.

I'm wondering how the dealer determined that 3 injector o-rings were leaking. Without tearing the valve covers off, and seeing oil spurting out around the injector body, the best you could tell is that there's a leak in either one head or the other or both. Beyond that, it would just be an educated guess based on how high the IPR duty cycle was when each head was isolated.

[wallysheata]

Cool thanks Klhansen, i'm going to head over to the ford dealer this afternoon and grab the truck, there's an international dealer on the way home, so is there anything else i need to get other than the Oring kit, retainer clips, and i'm assuming that wiring harness part # is the entire replacement harness for the injectors/glow plugs? What about a valve cover gasket? Also, any recommendations on glow plugs, is there an "upgraded" glow plug or should i just replace it with a factory ford plug....any part numbers on glow plugs would be apreciated as well

[boomboom]

On this UVC harness retaining clip is one pack of three for one side, so you need two packs of three clips to do both sides ? Thanks

[klhansen]

Originally Posted by wallysheata

Cool thanks Klhansen, i'm going to head over to the ford dealer this afternoon and grab the truck, there's an international dealer on the way home, so is there anything else i need to get other than the Oring kit, retainer clips, and i'm assuming that wiring harness part # is the entire replacement harness for the injectors/glow plugs? What about a valve cover gasket? Also, any recommendations on glow plugs, is there an "upgraded" glow plug or should i just replace it with a factory ford plug....any part numbers on glow plugs would be apreciated as well

If you get the UVC harness you won't be able to use the retainer clips, because the UVC harnesses have been redesigned. They may not even have the retainer clips on hand, so I'd just have the harnesses in case you find a bad one. Valve cover gasket will be good to reuse unless the connector pins are corroded or burnt, or if it's leaking before you pull it (or if you step on it and break it .) It's a plastic spacer affair with o-ring type seals on both sides, and can be reused many times.
Get glow plugs either from International or Ford (Motorcraft ZD-11). Both are identical and made by Beru (that'll be printed on the barrell). Don't use anything else, IMO.

Originally Posted by boomboom

On this UVC harness retaining clip is one pack of three for one side, so you need two packs of three clips to do both sides ? Thanks

No, the clips come in packs of 3 so if you drop one into the engine, you'll still have one clip for each bank. So you only need 1 pack if you can find them.

[boomboom]

Thanks, I going to replace all intake hoses and intercooler hoses and clean out my tubes and sense that stuff will be out of the way I was going to put those clips on before harnesses have a chance to come undone. The valvecover gaskets were going to be my next question but you already answered that. Thanks

[wallysheata]

well got all the injector orings replaced, new harness, put it all back together, FINALLY got it started by dragging it down the road with the jeep and the truck died after about 5 miles and won't start I did not have time to do the IPR Valve, so i'm off to my inlaws now to install the Oring kit for the IPR Valve and see if i can't get this pig to run again

[wallysheata]

Ok, pulled apart the IPR valve last night, was pretty straight forward, the orings all looked just fine, and the piston inside of it moved freely and there was no gunk or anything in there, but i went ahead and sprayed it down, cleaned it up and put the new orings on. In the process of removing the fuel filter bowl, i noticed 3 of the 4 fuel line orings were totally shot, so much so that they fell out in pieces. I went to the International dealer in town, and he only showed one size oring, so i got that and it was fit the largest fuel line on the driver side down low. The upper line on the driver side is the next size down, and the two smaller lines on the pass side are even smaller. Napa didn't have the parts, so i'm wondering if anyone knows what the part # for those are, or what the correct size is for them? I'm going to have to wait until monday i'm guessing for the Stealership to open and head over there.

My thought is however that the truck is not running once warm because these orings are so shot, it's letting air into the system and not holding a constant fuel preassure. Anythoughts?

[losfinch]

If those were "shot" you'd think that they'd be leaking fuel while its running? My guess is that they're not your main problem. Good to replace them anyway. Go to dieselorings.com for an education on the sleeve sizes that you need. Its all listed there and more.

[CPUNeck]

Did anybody note the "smokeing GPR?" If all the current is being used there, not much is getting to the GP's. I'd check your GPR again. Measure across the two big lugs while the unit is activated and see if there is a voltage drop. Been fighting this my self. Symptoms are the same, but you need that GPR working.

[tbpower]

You might need to to replace the ipr. Some have reported rebuilding does not always fix it. You need to monitor the icp duty cycle % while cranking or use a manual gauge to see the pressure. You need to see around 500psi or greater for the injectors to fire. Is your hpop reservoir staying full? Here is a good guide: http://www.forddoctorsdts.com/public...3HPOPGuide.pdf

[wallysheata]

Thanks for the input, i did replace the GPR with a new international one, and installed new glow plugs while i was in there. I i guess the next step is to install the orings and start testing HPOP Preassure based on tbpower's link. I'm just FRUSTRATED with this truck, 4 days of working on it and it still is not running

[CPUNeck]

So are you getting smoke while cranking? Perhaps you should also inspect the fuses and relays. My favorite (has sh&# the bed twice on me) is the IDM relay. Find it and temporarily swap it with the blower fan relay. Worth a shot, and is the right price.