99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke Engine and DrivetrainDiscussion of the 99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 1999-Up Super Duty trucks and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 7.3L Power Stroke engine.
Been noticing the heater not as cold as it used to be. Basics say check the rad fluid level, thermostat, etc. I have no leaks in the Heater core and all seems well. Before I start replacing the heater core is there something I'm obviously missing here?
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99 F-250 SD 9/98 Build 4" Suspension Lift, Weld Wheels, 35x12.5x16.5 BFG Mud Terrain, Linex, Custom Cold Air Box,3 guage pillar (stewart warner),IDM Mod, MagnaFlow Stainless 4" exhaust, Westin Step bars,Crome Push bar, Piaa offroad lights, Jody Tipton 80hp Econ PCM,Remote Start, Tinted windows, Kenwood head unit, 2 MTX subs, 4 MB Quarts in the doors, 2 MTX Amps.
70 Bronco 351W, World class heads, 4:10 gears, 33x12.5 Swampers, Twin stick, Detroit locker rear, NP435 4 spd, Dyno'd 381 hp at the crank.
Why are you trying to get your heater colder? Wouldn't it be more likely your heater isn't so warm anymore? After the engine is warmed up, grab both heater hoses and see if they are hot. If only one is hot, you've got a flow issue. If they are both hot, you've got a heat transference issue (exterior of the core clogged with debris) or a blending issue (bad blend door actuator). The latter is most common if you haven't had the system open. Do you have any way of measuring engine temperature - like a scanner to read EOT?
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2003 F-250 XLT Crew Cab 7.3L, Chrome BigTex Grille Guard, Quad pillar - 3 ISSPRO gauges (trans, pyro, boost) and DP-Tuner F6; Roush fuel pressure / temperature / oil pressure gauges, Ford Severe Duty AIS, 31 row 6.0 transmission cooler, ScanGauge II, Marinco mod, Walker BTM
"IF YOU CAN'T FIX IT WITH A HAMMER, YOU’VE GOT AN ELECTRICAL PROBLEM"
LOL Opps.. OK let start again. Not as HOT as it used to be. Geesh wheres my head today.
Quote:
Originally Posted by RT
Why are you trying to get your heater colder? Wouldn't it be more likely your heater isn't so warm anymore? After the engine is warmed up, grab both heater hoses and see if they are hot. If only one is hot, you've got a flow issue. If they are both hot, you've got a heat transference issue (exterior of the core clogged with debris) or a blending issue (bad blend door actuator). The latter is most common if you haven't had the system open. Do you have any way of measuring engine temperature - like a scanner to read EOT?
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99 F-250 SD 9/98 Build 4" Suspension Lift, Weld Wheels, 35x12.5x16.5 BFG Mud Terrain, Linex, Custom Cold Air Box,3 guage pillar (stewart warner),IDM Mod, MagnaFlow Stainless 4" exhaust, Westin Step bars,Crome Push bar, Piaa offroad lights, Jody Tipton 80hp Econ PCM,Remote Start, Tinted windows, Kenwood head unit, 2 MTX subs, 4 MB Quarts in the doors, 2 MTX Amps.
70 Bronco 351W, World class heads, 4:10 gears, 33x12.5 Swampers, Twin stick, Detroit locker rear, NP435 4 spd, Dyno'd 381 hp at the crank.
Yeah I will try the heater hose to the touch. I have a AE to check temp of truck.
Temp of the truck is perfect so sounds like the bad blend door actuator.
Those easy to replace? hopefully not to $$
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99 F-250 SD 9/98 Build 4" Suspension Lift, Weld Wheels, 35x12.5x16.5 BFG Mud Terrain, Linex, Custom Cold Air Box,3 guage pillar (stewart warner),IDM Mod, MagnaFlow Stainless 4" exhaust, Westin Step bars,Crome Push bar, Piaa offroad lights, Jody Tipton 80hp Econ PCM,Remote Start, Tinted windows, Kenwood head unit, 2 MTX subs, 4 MB Quarts in the doors, 2 MTX Amps.
70 Bronco 351W, World class heads, 4:10 gears, 33x12.5 Swampers, Twin stick, Detroit locker rear, NP435 4 spd, Dyno'd 381 hp at the crank.
Very easy to replace - its just behind the glove box door. STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS Part # J04013 is about $33 from RockAuto.
I would test yours first - pull the glove box, undo the actuator, and then (with the truck running) move the temperature control knob back and forth to see if your actuator moves.
Ok I tested the actuator last night and the original one is working fine. After further testing, passenger side is blowing hot but the driver side is probably half the temp and half the amount of air flow. I don't have dual controls and I thought the sir gets split right above the transmission hump. Is this not right?
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99 F-250 SD 9/98 Build 4" Suspension Lift, Weld Wheels, 35x12.5x16.5 BFG Mud Terrain, Linex, Custom Cold Air Box,3 guage pillar (stewart warner),IDM Mod, MagnaFlow Stainless 4" exhaust, Westin Step bars,Crome Push bar, Piaa offroad lights, Jody Tipton 80hp Econ PCM,Remote Start, Tinted windows, Kenwood head unit, 2 MTX subs, 4 MB Quarts in the doors, 2 MTX Amps.
70 Bronco 351W, World class heads, 4:10 gears, 33x12.5 Swampers, Twin stick, Detroit locker rear, NP435 4 spd, Dyno'd 381 hp at the crank.
There are two diverters - one that moves vent level air up to the defroster, the other that moves vent level air down to the heater. Again, both behind the glove box - those are vacuum controlled. I am at a loss to explain why it would separate left and right air flow unless there is an obstruction or one of the vent tubes has come loose. Time to get a good flashlight and go hunting. That, or move south.
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2003 F-250 XLT Crew Cab 7.3L, Chrome BigTex Grille Guard, Quad pillar - 3 ISSPRO gauges (trans, pyro, boost) and DP-Tuner F6; Roush fuel pressure / temperature / oil pressure gauges, Ford Severe Duty AIS, 31 row 6.0 transmission cooler, ScanGauge II, Marinco mod, Walker BTM
"IF YOU CAN'T FIX IT WITH A HAMMER, YOU’VE GOT AN ELECTRICAL PROBLEM"
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