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99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain Discussion of the 99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 1999-Up Super Duty trucks and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 7.3L Power Stroke engine.

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Old 12-22-2012, 10:15 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Help for a Buddy

A friend has a 2002 F350 and had an event last night. Driving down freeway and it died. Pulled over and tried to restart. Would restart but only ran for approx 20-30 seconds then died again. A friend towed him home but now looking for a possible cause. What should we look at?
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1997 F350 Crew Cab 4x4, AT, 4.10, drivetrain is all stock. Toyo Open Country A/T 285/65-18 10-ply on Allied Renegade wheels. Snugtop shell. TYMAR Intake. Coated H-Max DP with 4" exhaust. Donaldson resonator and Cat had to be put to sleep. Just turned 58,000 original miles!!!! Best addition-Wildman chip- Phantom II gauges. Sonnax valve w/ Tri-C springs and Royal Purple in the trans with a supplemental fan on the Tru-Cool cooler. ATS intercooler with 1.0 turbo housing and clean pedestal, no EBPV. SuperSprings installed.
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Old 12-22-2012, 10:45 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Start with the fuel pump. Check fuel pressure. That would be the first place I'd look.
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Old 12-22-2012, 11:15 AM   #3 (permalink)
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fuel filter, oil pressure, fuel cutoff switch.
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1999.5 F350 SRW 7.3 6spd; 243k miles no mods
new timing cover
K&N air filter
replaced injectors
replaced HPOP (reman)
replaced PCMx2 & idm

OTHER TRUCK
1976 F350 FB DUELLY
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Old 12-22-2012, 11:48 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Cam position sensor.
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1999.5 F250 creeping up on 400k.

Check your wiring harness: Chaffed wiring at driver's valve cover.

Keep everyone (and yourself) updated:7.3 mileage and repair thread

If you insist on throwing parts at your truck to fix the problem, go big--don't forget the driver's side frame rail.

If your ICP connector has oil in it, change it. Don't argue, just change it. Don't check other things first, just change it.
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Old 12-22-2012, 12:17 PM   #5 (permalink)
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He changed the CPS. Same issue. What's needed to check fuel pressure? Also, where is fuel cut-off switch and what's its purpose, aside from the obvious? What's required to check oil pressure?

Thanks for the help. I have to relay info to him until I can go over to help.
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1997 F350 Crew Cab 4x4, AT, 4.10, drivetrain is all stock. Toyo Open Country A/T 285/65-18 10-ply on Allied Renegade wheels. Snugtop shell. TYMAR Intake. Coated H-Max DP with 4" exhaust. Donaldson resonator and Cat had to be put to sleep. Just turned 58,000 original miles!!!! Best addition-Wildman chip- Phantom II gauges. Sonnax valve w/ Tri-C springs and Royal Purple in the trans with a supplemental fan on the Tru-Cool cooler. ATS intercooler with 1.0 turbo housing and clean pedestal, no EBPV. SuperSprings installed.
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Old 12-22-2012, 12:56 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Glen5241 View Post
He changed the CPS. Same issue. What's needed to check fuel pressure? Also, where is fuel cut-off switch and what's its purpose, aside from the obvious? What's required to check oil pressure?

Thanks for the help. I have to relay info to him until I can go over to help.
You can check fuel pressure by hooking up a 4' fuel line (5/8"??) to the drain tube that comes down the front passenger side of the engine. Secured by hose clamps on both ends with a fuel pressure gauge (at least 60psi) at the other end. Open the drain valve on the fuel bowl and turn the key over. The fuel pump will run for a minute before shutting off. Should have at least 45-55psi. Where is the fuel level?

But before doing all of that, just empty the bowl and see if it fills up.
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2001 F350 7.3 4x4 CC SRW/ Aeroforce Interceptor/ BD Thruster II/ Bellowed Up-Pipes/ 4" turbo back straight exhaust / CCV Mod /DIY 6637/ TS chip reburned with PHP tunes (Stock, 40 Tow WITH Whsiper tune, 80 Daily Driver, 100 Race, 140 Extreme, 140 smoke show)/160/stock FFD/PowerSlot rotors and green EBC pads/Recon smoked cab lights/MM Hubs/Hood/HPx/FRx/GPR switch-Indicator


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Old 12-22-2012, 02:41 PM   #7 (permalink)
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My IPR went bad and I didn't get any RPMs when I cranked. Are you getting RPMs when you crank?

Check oil level in the HPOP reservoir. Should be close to the top . . . IPR could be stuck open.
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1999.5 F250 creeping up on 400k.

Check your wiring harness: Chaffed wiring at driver's valve cover.

Keep everyone (and yourself) updated:7.3 mileage and repair thread

If you insist on throwing parts at your truck to fix the problem, go big--don't forget the driver's side frame rail.

If your ICP connector has oil in it, change it. Don't argue, just change it. Don't check other things first, just change it.
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Old 12-22-2012, 04:52 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Will pass on the info. Thanks for the help, again. Will update as soon as we can.
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1997 F350 Crew Cab 4x4, AT, 4.10, drivetrain is all stock. Toyo Open Country A/T 285/65-18 10-ply on Allied Renegade wheels. Snugtop shell. TYMAR Intake. Coated H-Max DP with 4" exhaust. Donaldson resonator and Cat had to be put to sleep. Just turned 58,000 original miles!!!! Best addition-Wildman chip- Phantom II gauges. Sonnax valve w/ Tri-C springs and Royal Purple in the trans with a supplemental fan on the Tru-Cool cooler. ATS intercooler with 1.0 turbo housing and clean pedestal, no EBPV. SuperSprings installed.
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Old 12-22-2012, 07:20 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by ReefBlue View Post
My IPR went bad and I didn't get any RPMs when I cranked. Are you getting RPMs when you crank?

Check oil level in the HPOP reservoir. Should be close to the top . . . IPR could be stuck open.
IPR or CPS??

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2001 F350 7.3 4x4 CC SRW/ Aeroforce Interceptor/ BD Thruster II/ Bellowed Up-Pipes/ 4" turbo back straight exhaust / CCV Mod /DIY 6637/ TS chip reburned with PHP tunes (Stock, 40 Tow WITH Whsiper tune, 80 Daily Driver, 100 Race, 140 Extreme, 140 smoke show)/160/stock FFD/PowerSlot rotors and green EBC pads/Recon smoked cab lights/MM Hubs/Hood/HPx/FRx/GPR switch-Indicator


Information .zip file
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Old 12-22-2012, 09:49 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Is he using a chip or programmer? If so that should be pulled first. If not running a chip, the cps and fuel pump switch are next easy suspects in line to check.
On the electrical side, are the batteries in fine shape. Slightly low/weak batteries may briskly crank the engine but have insufficient voltage to allow the computer to function, especially now that weather is in general colder.
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Old 12-22-2012, 10:24 PM   #11 (permalink)
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He was already running, so cold batteries shouldn't be the problem and theoretically the battery light should come on if there is a battery/alternator issue.

Just remember to start with the little stuff first and work your way up.

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2001 F350 7.3 4x4 CC SRW/ Aeroforce Interceptor/ BD Thruster II/ Bellowed Up-Pipes/ 4" turbo back straight exhaust / CCV Mod /DIY 6637/ TS chip reburned with PHP tunes (Stock, 40 Tow WITH Whsiper tune, 80 Daily Driver, 100 Race, 140 Extreme, 140 smoke show)/160/stock FFD/PowerSlot rotors and green EBC pads/Recon smoked cab lights/MM Hubs/Hood/HPx/FRx/GPR switch-Indicator


Information .zip file
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Old 12-22-2012, 11:59 PM   #12 (permalink)
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*** "He was already running, so cold batteries shouldn't be the problem and theoretically the battery light should come on if there is a battery/alternator issue." ***

If batteries go below the threshold to keep computer happy, when you drop off engine speed such that you are running off the battery instead of alternator, the computer can shut you down. And the batteries may not have enough juice to fire it back up.
The dashboard indicators do not typically kick in unless there is a major problem, not just slightly lower than desired alternator output or slightly low voltage.

I have had to replace my batteries twice to date, and never have seen an indicator turn on for this. But this did keep the engine from running until replaced. Hey I am not guaranteeing either is his problem, just saying that these are definitely potential causes, and quick and easy and cheap to eliminate or confirm. Cheers!
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Old 12-23-2012, 01:02 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Update. No RPM while cranking but will register when it does start. Will not restart immediately after it dies. Has a DP-Tuner chip and will be pulling it. Crappy weather so not able to work on right now. He will be checking fuel pressure at bowl. Changed the fuel pump about 1 1/2 years ago. Had fluctuating low pressure. Replaced with a Napa pump. He did say a relay was chattering under the dash when key on. Hmmm, does this help with a diagnosis?
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1997 F350 Crew Cab 4x4, AT, 4.10, drivetrain is all stock. Toyo Open Country A/T 285/65-18 10-ply on Allied Renegade wheels. Snugtop shell. TYMAR Intake. Coated H-Max DP with 4" exhaust. Donaldson resonator and Cat had to be put to sleep. Just turned 58,000 original miles!!!! Best addition-Wildman chip- Phantom II gauges. Sonnax valve w/ Tri-C springs and Royal Purple in the trans with a supplemental fan on the Tru-Cool cooler. ATS intercooler with 1.0 turbo housing and clean pedestal, no EBPV. SuperSprings installed.
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Old 12-23-2012, 02:20 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Glen5241 View Post
Update. No RPM while cranking but will register when it does start. Will not restart immediately after it dies. Has a DP-Tuner chip and will be pulling it. Crappy weather so not able to work on right now. He will be checking fuel pressure at bowl. Changed the fuel pump about 1 1/2 years ago. Had fluctuating low pressure. Replaced with a Napa pump. He did say a relay was chattering under the dash when key on. Hmmm, does this help with a diagnosis?
You're draining the battery by constantly trying to start the truck without charging it back up, so when the battery voltage drops (under 10.5v I think), that relay opens back up, so a chattering relay indicates your batteries are right at that 10.5 threshold.

How far is the oil from the top of the HPOP reservoir? Should be about 3/4 of an inch or so.
__________________
1999.5 F250 creeping up on 400k.

Check your wiring harness: Chaffed wiring at driver's valve cover.

Keep everyone (and yourself) updated:7.3 mileage and repair thread

If you insist on throwing parts at your truck to fix the problem, go big--don't forget the driver's side frame rail.

If your ICP connector has oil in it, change it. Don't argue, just change it. Don't check other things first, just change it.
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Old 12-23-2012, 04:19 PM   #15 (permalink)
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He is picking up a pair of batteries today. Haven't heard if he has been able to check out levels or pressures.
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1997 F350 Crew Cab 4x4, AT, 4.10, drivetrain is all stock. Toyo Open Country A/T 285/65-18 10-ply on Allied Renegade wheels. Snugtop shell. TYMAR Intake. Coated H-Max DP with 4" exhaust. Donaldson resonator and Cat had to be put to sleep. Just turned 58,000 original miles!!!! Best addition-Wildman chip- Phantom II gauges. Sonnax valve w/ Tri-C springs and Royal Purple in the trans with a supplemental fan on the Tru-Cool cooler. ATS intercooler with 1.0 turbo housing and clean pedestal, no EBPV. SuperSprings installed.
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