99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke Engine and DrivetrainDiscussion of the 99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 1999-Up Super Duty trucks and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 7.3L Power Stroke engine.
Service engine light comes on truck stumbles, runs rough. turn ignition off and restart and the problem disappears. This has happened two days in a row. Can not pull any codes. Have the new cps recall. The motor is 2000 remanufactured. has 76,000 on it.
Any ideas?
Thanks, John
oil pressure good, eng. temp. good, tran. temp good. no other lights come on.
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00 F350 4x4 PSD SC XLT SRW Auto 3.73 OFF ROAD PKS Bushwacker OE flares System One racks Hi side boxes.Triple pillar w/Auto Meter Boost pressure,Trans temp, Exhaust temp, Gauges. Trans. cooler w/remote filter. AMSOIL bypass filter. Walker Big Truck Muffler.
What are you using to pull codes? Most generic scan tools won't work on your truck.
It sounds like it might be an injector circuit problem. The UVC (Under Valve Cover) Harnesses have a tendency to come loose and cause intermittent problems. If they're loose, the injectors that have been disconnected won't fire. Could also be the wire harness chafing on the driver's side valve cover. Some genius engineer put the high voltage injector circuits on the bottom of the bundle.
While it's running rough, pull one of the external valve cover wiring connectors off (located inboard of the VC toward the middle of the engine). If it doesn't change the way it runs, then that side UVC harness may be loose. If it kills the engine, then the side you pulled is probably good.
Check the Hard/No start link in my sig for getting those connectors loose.
My question is related to this, is there a picture or diagram around on how to get the outer valve cover connector apart without breaking it? I know that little retainer clip needs to come off but I'll be damned if I can figure out how!
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Redneck_Steve if i was you i just not even mess around with not replacing it, we tried being very careful with mine and it was only months and it did the exact same thing as stated with the problem above, except mine didnt shut off, but it does sound like a harness problem, napa should be able to hook you up
My UVCH problem manifested itself the exactly same way. Was driving, suddenly engine started running on one bank of cylinders. I shut it off and restarted a couple times. Suddenly it was fine. A few weeks later, it became disconnected for good. I had to pull the valve cover and plug it back in.
Still need to get replacement parts and dive back in to fix it for good. I know I am driving on borrowed time on this one!
By the way, there is a current thread that has a link to a youtude video of a PSD running with a UVCH disconnected.
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2000 F-350 PSD 4X4 CC Shortbed Slushbox 3.73LS. Ford's severe duty air box and filter, In tank Hutch mod. Pyro, Boost and Tranny Temp on the pillar. Timbren Rubber Springs and Airbags, Rancho 9000's, Reese Titan Class 5 Hitch, with Strait-Line Weight Distribution/sway control. Pulling an 18 Foot Car-Mate Trailer Loaded to @6500 pounds on a 2 foot stinger.
Set up for a Lance Truck camper, camper long gone... Thankfully I have not towed off the stinger for a long time!
Last edited by TR_Racer; 03-06-2010 at 08:06 AM.
Reason: typo
I got mine apart and it was the harness unplugged. I saw somewhere the aftermarket has a retainer clip to keep it together, does anyone know of this?
The clip is not an aftermarket deal, it's genuine Ford. From the posts I read, some think the clip is a bogus approach. Some people said they got them to work, others said they didn't. I believe the clips were a band-aid until the redesigned parts came along. Could be wrong on that one, though...
My thinking is I don't want anything falling off in the valve cover area, and since I need to dive back into the valve covers anyway, I'm foregoing the clips and replacing the harnesses. I need to do it before my next real journey in the truck.
The International part for the UVCH that's significantly cheaper than from Ford. International part number I believe is 1830844C93. Just did a forum search and came up with that number, hopefully it's the right one!
The Ford and International harnesses are identical, BTW...
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2000 F-350 PSD 4X4 CC Shortbed Slushbox 3.73LS. Ford's severe duty air box and filter, In tank Hutch mod. Pyro, Boost and Tranny Temp on the pillar. Timbren Rubber Springs and Airbags, Rancho 9000's, Reese Titan Class 5 Hitch, with Strait-Line Weight Distribution/sway control. Pulling an 18 Foot Car-Mate Trailer Loaded to @6500 pounds on a 2 foot stinger.
Set up for a Lance Truck camper, camper long gone... Thankfully I have not towed off the stinger for a long time!
Thanks for your suggestions. How difficult is it to remove the valve cover to access the injection connectors? Who carries the retainer clips? One more problem I have discovered is the fuel cover cap is on so tight I broke the nut on my NAPA removal tool trying to remove it. I have tried a oil filter wrench and snaped the handle off. Any sugestions? I am thinking off puchasing a new cap and cutting this one off.
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00 F350 4x4 PSD SC XLT SRW Auto 3.73 OFF ROAD PKS Bushwacker OE flares System One racks Hi side boxes.Triple pillar w/Auto Meter Boost pressure,Trans temp, Exhaust temp, Gauges. Trans. cooler w/remote filter. AMSOIL bypass filter. Walker Big Truck Muffler.
You do not need retainer clips with your new updated harness. Clips are built into the new harness. For the fuel cap try using a tight oil filter wrench (angle ajusting handle) and hammer.
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2001 Ford F-250 PS, CC, 2/w drive short bed, auto(BTS upgrade), Banks Stinger Plus and exhaust brake, TurboSaver, HX,Hutch mod/pooned, K&N FIPK, Mag-Hytec trans and diff pans, Cyclone fan, doodad, Bilstein shocks, Air-lifts front and rear, dp-Tuner F-5 chip, Fleetrite/203therm, fuel regulator shim, GOS headlight harness/silverstars, Bob's coolent filter, Rotella Syn w/single by-pass.
The clip is not an aftermarket deal, it's genuine Ford. From the posts I read, some think the clip is a bogus approach. Some people said they got them to work, others said they didn't. I believe the clips were a band-aid until the redesigned parts came along. Could be wrong on that one, though...
You're not wrong. The clips are available from either Ford or International for about $10 (for three little bits of plastic. They're shims that increase the springiness of the latch on the UVC harness. The problem is that older harnesses tend to get brittle, and the latch breaks off. The new, redesigned UVC harnesses are about $25 each from International (last time I bought one a few years ago) and the clips cant work with them.
The thing that's bogus is guys substituting a quarter for the clip. I wouldn't want a piece of metal potentially getting loose inside my engine.
You're not wrong. The clips are available from either Ford or International for about $10 (for three little bits of plastic. They're shims that increase the springiness of the latch on the UVC harness. The problem is that older harnesses tend to get brittle, and the latch breaks off. The new, redesigned UVC harnesses are about $25 each from International (last time I bought one a few years ago) and the clips cant work with them.
The thing that's bogus is guys substituting a quarter for the clip. I wouldn't want a piece of metal potentially getting loose inside my engine.
This is the first I have read about the quarter trick. That's just crazy. It's not a question of IF the quarter is going to fall out, it's WHEN it will fall out!
Wow, $10 for the band-aid clips, or $50 for two new harnesses and your done with the problem. Hard to believe we even talk about the clips as an alternative.
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2000 F-350 PSD 4X4 CC Shortbed Slushbox 3.73LS. Ford's severe duty air box and filter, In tank Hutch mod. Pyro, Boost and Tranny Temp on the pillar. Timbren Rubber Springs and Airbags, Rancho 9000's, Reese Titan Class 5 Hitch, with Strait-Line Weight Distribution/sway control. Pulling an 18 Foot Car-Mate Trailer Loaded to @6500 pounds on a 2 foot stinger.
Set up for a Lance Truck camper, camper long gone... Thankfully I have not towed off the stinger for a long time!
You do not need retainer clips with your new updated harness. Clips are built into the new harness. For the fuel cap try using a tight oil filter wrench (angle ajusting handle) and hammer.
Removed the retainer clips and pulled the harness connecters. From the top everything looks good. Install the connector back with dielectric grease. Because everthing appeared secure I thinking the problem is under the valve cover. Injecter connection, wire chaving or something else. Before I dive into this is there a list of things that I should get other than valve cover gasket, harness and some new injecter clips? Does the new harness conecter accept the old top side female connecter?
Removed the fuel filter cap with a new NAPA tool and impact wrench.
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00 F350 4x4 PSD SC XLT SRW Auto 3.73 OFF ROAD PKS Bushwacker OE flares System One racks Hi side boxes.Triple pillar w/Auto Meter Boost pressure,Trans temp, Exhaust temp, Gauges. Trans. cooler w/remote filter. AMSOIL bypass filter. Walker Big Truck Muffler.
The thing that's bogus is guys substituting a quarter for the clip. I wouldn't want a piece of metal potentially getting loose inside my engine.
Anytime we modify our trucks we run the risk of something going wrong. Some would argue that 80e will do more damage to your truck than tuning from others.
As for the quarter, a shim is a shim. As long as it is the proper thickness, width and height, it will work as intended. The only way the quarter would come out is if the connector broke, but this is one of those things that you actually have to see to believe.
I don't have a problem with Jody's tunes or the quarter shim. I will admit I never thought the quarter was a good idea until I stuck one in the connector just to see. Seeing is believing and my quarters have been in place for around 75k miles.
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