help, please!!!!!!!!stuck out of town - Page 2 - Diesel Forum

ASEMechanic · 08-19-2009, 07:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by klhansen

I'm thinking with ASEmechanic that it's related to the HP oil system, although I've read from someone who's pretty knowledgeable here that a lack of fuel can set a P1211 due to fuel starvation. What happens is that there's no resistance (lack of fuel in the injectors) and the HP oil pressure drops off too fast for the HPOP to keep up.

Absolutely agreed! Lack of fuel pressure will do exactly what you described.

Good catch on that as I overlooked it.

Dirtcheap · 08-24-2009, 07:10 PM

i finally got the X home last night... what trip 1000 miles in 2 days with a trailer that was WAY to small to do the job... the X was hanging off the front and back a foot each... the DMAX did great towing the X home ( hehe ) ... also wanted to say thanks to bill (asemechanic) for the offer to help out

... im gonna set the programmer to stock, change the oil and go from there...

Dirtcheap · 08-26-2009, 04:58 PM

i reset the programmer to stock and no change>>???

Dirtcheap · 08-26-2009, 06:39 PM

i disconnected the ipc? ( in driverside head) no change.. i called the local diesel fuel injection shop.. they said bad injectors and there is no way to test them,, and that they are only good for 100k miles or so... i really need to get that code reader... my hypertech doesnt read/reset codes

tbpower · 08-26-2009, 07:22 PM

Sounds like you need to convince the wife to let you get AE. It should pay for itself......

99SD250 · 08-26-2009, 08:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dirtcheap

i disconnected the ipc? ( in driverside head) no change.. i called the local diesel fuel injection shop.. they said bad injectors and there is no way to test them,, and that they are only good for 100k miles or so... i really need to get that code reader... my hypertech doesnt read/reset codes

Ahhhhhhhh mechincs are funny...

Dirtcheap · 08-26-2009, 08:27 PM

anybody know how much the AE (autoenginuity???) costs??

Dirtcheap · 08-26-2009, 08:33 PM

i really started poking around under the hood and heres where im at... the 2 lines that run into the hpop( i think.. its under the fuel bowl towards the driver side... have brass looking fittings) have a little play/wiggle to them and there is also a plug that wiggles this is 90 degrees from the hpop lines (?) and it faces towards the rear of the engine... there are no real oil leaks ( none to write home about anyways) anybody close to pensacola fl with the AE scan tool that wouldnt mind helpin a brotha out ??

**woodnthings8** · 08-26-2009, 08:50 PM

Quote:

Ahhhhhhhh mechincs are funny...

AE runs about $341.00:
$90 at dealership for "diagnostic fee to say fuel pump is bad
$$$$ for new fuel pump that wasn't needed
$$$$ Rental of Tic Tac Clown Car
Fuel to go out and fetch broken rig
$341 for Autoenginuity
Fixing it yourself and not going to the stealer .....Priceless!

Quote:

i really started poking around under the hood and heres where im at... the 2 lines that run into the hpop( i think.. its under the fuel bowl towards the driver side... have brass looking fittings) have a little play/wiggle to them and there is also a plug that wiggles this is 90 degrees from the hpop lines (?) and it faces towards the rear of the engine... there are no real oil leaks ( none to write home about anyways) anybody close to pensacola fl with the AE scan tool that wouldnt mind helpin a brotha out ??

THe HPOP lines will have a little wiggle to them, not to sweat unless they leak

Dirtcheap · 08-26-2009, 09:22 PM

thanks woods... at least i got the last laugh on ford... after i called the dealer to gripe that it wasnt the fuel pump and they said its because i didnt replace it with a "genuine ford" fuel pump i called visa and disputed the bill for services not rendered

... i really hated to do that but when given the chance to refund my $ i got the b.s. not a ford part bit..

**woodnthings8** · 08-26-2009, 09:32 PM

Give ITP Diesel a call, he has the AE and a good page on tests you can do with it once you get it. Autoenginuity

Diagnostic Tips

Dirtcheap · 08-27-2009, 12:13 AM

should i be able to move the waste gate acuator rod by hand???

**woodnthings8** · 08-27-2009, 08:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dirtcheap

should i be able to move the waste gate acuator rod by hand???

Not really. It should be under spring tension and the rod end has a small E-Clip on the end that keeps it hooked up to the waste gate linkage.

Dirtcheap · 09-22-2009, 08:06 PM

i changed out my ipr today... i went the long route and removed the fuel bowl ( i wanted to clean it out, so glad i did, ) ( also there was no way in h#@# i was gonna be able to get my gorrila hands down in there )..anyway the bottom of the bowl was full of rust and crap... i drain it pretty regular... no improvement, the batteries have drained from sitting , so i removed both of them for charging... one of them made a crackle sound when i sqeezed it.. my buddy is bringing his ohm meter over tomorrow so i can find out which ( if not both) valve covers im gonna pull

... my question is this, could 1 or both batteries being bad cause the fuel pump not to recieve enough juice to operate properly?? i thought diesels needed 2 batteries for starting due to the compression... i know im dragging my feet getting it fixed but i just now had enough time to mess with it ... thanks

wackerjr · 09-22-2009, 08:25 PM

I can tell you this the fuel system has nothing to do with your problem, so stop looking there.....these trucks will run without the fuel pump running......you say yours wont run at all....and the 1211 leads to the oil side....

NOW IF you had a valve cover problem same thing it would try to run would run like it was on 4 cylinders....odds are you do not have a UVC harness issue....

Now lets get to where you really need to be looking......

FIRST Crank the truck over and see if the tach moves.....if it does then CPS is prob good (yes I have seen them go bad and not toss a code)

SECOND Check the WIRING going to the IPR on the plug on the back of the HPOP Make sure it is all good, they are PRONE to faliure...

did you happen to look at your orings on the IPR? It sure sounds like an IPR oring to me....or something in the IPR circuit...

ALSO check the wiring to the OIL temp sender on the resivoir they are pron to being bad as well.......

I find it hard to believe that driving down the road, you all the sudden lost enough of a injector oring to make the truck stall and die, the IPR duty cycle should have shot through the roof, causing an ICP overage code, but the truck would have still ran until you shut it off, Unless you lost like 4 injector orings all at once (HIGHLY UNLIKELY)

Get the New IPR in, Check the wiring to the IPR, and crank that beast over, MAKE SURE your batts are charged, and you will prob need something on them to keep them up after an IPR change till you get oil pressure.....