99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke Engine and DrivetrainDiscussion of the 99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 1999-Up Super Duty trucks and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 7.3L Power Stroke engine.
That guy is a freeking idiot, how can he influence so many people with gibberish? When you change your oil, if you start it and run for any time at all, the "Dirty" oil in the HPOP reservior, flows down into the pan, and mixes with the other 13-15 qts you put in clean. Really, changing that little amount, makes no difference, you better remember to change the oil in the heads too, (Pull them off, drain and flush heads, remove all 8 injectors and drain too).......
I sucked out the quart of oil from the HPOP reservoir since its just that much more old oil I could get out. It was easy with a vacuum pump.
But, I had a hard time believing that once the motor was fired up, that all the oil wasn't being mixed, like some here are saying. That's why I only removed it the first time and didn't continue to remove more from the reservoir after running the truck.
But I was curious what others were seeing when removing it multiple times.
Good thread but yes, the oil does/HAS to mix.
No way around it.
Let's put it this way,,,,,,(laymens terms) IF it didn't mix, do you not think that Ford would've put a "service" interval in there for the "HPOP OIL CHANGE"?
(or did I just miss that? as I'll admit I've never read my service manual entirely)
c'mon people.
Anyhow, yes, can't hurt to change it and YES I have done it in the past and will continue to maybe once every cpl years, and YES it most likely is actually better for your injectors.
But to say that it never has mixed?......that would mean that about 98% of the 7.3's on the road today have original oil going to their injectors.
LOL, and $4-$5k for injector replacement?..? ...........am I missing something here?
Can't ya get a set of 8 for under $1000?
Don't get me wrong, he knows WAY more about these engines than I ever will, I'm just not sure that all his videos are completely forthcoming.
Like, maybe that vid in particular is more a "pro-long" sponsored video? Maybe not, but nevertheless, it doesn't seem like too many on this forum anyhow agree with this HPOP oil change theory.
__________________ y2k F250 7.3 psd Calif emissions, ext cab long bed 265/75/R16 E rated tires, 190k miles 4x4 (nv271 manual t-case) 7.3 #1247981 1/18/00 (forged rods), 3.73LSD, non-diode 4R100, Dp tuner stock, 60t 60e 80t 80e, high idle. DIY 6637 air filter, wicked wheel, turbo master WG controller, turbo lifesaver, bellowed uppies, 4" downpipe & exhaust, 203t-stat, triple pod glowshift gauges (egt, tranny, boost), Ride-rite 2330 air bags, BTS VB, Sports a Western plow when the white stuff flies.
Trailers:
I'm usually towing 1 of several trailers I've built.
15ft car hauler (1000lbs empty; 5500lbs loaded)
26ft deck over car hauler (2000lbs empty; 7k loaded)
36ft car hauler (Was tongue pull; have since converted into 5er'. 4500lbs empty; 14k loaded) https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-g...0/IMG_4130.JPG
I too watched the video and was like yeah right. All I can add is after I did this service and have been ever since my truck starts and run a heck of a lot better. But I only change it once now with every oil change. Call it what you want but sure is funny how, just like in his video my oil was in about the same condition. Sure it was black....I guess if you try it you just have to see if you think its worth it. I found that a boat oil pump works great for this application, the tube us the right size and I get about a quart out.
i would think that if the oil mixes ( at the rate it is suppossed to) the "top" oil would lighten up after a fresh oil change..i wouldnt go so far as to say he is an idiot but, he is very entertaining
did the same thing, mine was BLACK, it started to get a little better after the 3d time i could have done it more should have done it more. i was woundering how the oil returns to the pan, i noticed that it holds the oil under the plug, but if you put more than a qt of oil in the top of the hpop then it bleeds down to the pan. so is there a vally under the hpop plug that holds oil, and when this valley fills up it overflows to the oil pan? if so wouldnt the dirty oil being the heavest stay towards the bottom?
just thinking it so i threw it out, sounds crazy
any one have a pic of this area, so we all can see whats under the hpop plug?
__________________
a man is only as good as his word
2000 f250, 4x4, PSD, auto, XC, LB bradford built flatbed, edge juice with attitude, 4"BANKS exhaust with BANKS jake brake, BANKS Trans command, BANKS big head wastgate, BANKS turbine housing, BANKS intercooler, k&n air filter kit,ATS ported shroud compressor housing with WW, CFM+ intake manifold,AIH delete,ITP overboost annihilator
1983 f250 6.9, STC, 4X4, 5 speed, LB bradford built flatbed,with BANKS sidewinder turbo kit, BANKS 4" exhaust injectors set at 2150psi
The path of oil flow is from the Low pressure oil pump, (IN THE PAN, WHERE ALL THE CLEAN OIL IS) to the reservoir, the "Tank" above the HPOP. The Hpop feeds out of there, and into the heads, through the injectors, there are "Spouts" on the injectors that spit oil out while the truck is running, this flows out of the injector onto the head where the rockers are at, through the return "Drains" back into the pan,,,,, pretty simple and shows that the CLEAN oil get's into the HPOP pretty quickly.
Now someone try to explain to me how the oil in the HPOP system is isolated in anyway?
One thing, Ford did design the HPOP to use UNFILTERED oil from the LPOP, this may likely be because the flow through the filter might starve the HPOP system? Who knows, But I found this out from a friend who is very knowledgeable about HPOPs, and also found when my IPR stuck, because of a piece of debris from a blown turbo seal. (The filter would have stopped that, correct?)
__________________
Jim T.*48* SLAPS Co-Founder, 30.8 yrs RETIRED UAW 6/01/06, Now an ART (Specialists Flight Chief) with the USAFR 414th MXS Seymour Johnson AFB. My pics!'03 Dually pics!, New truck, 2011 F-350 SRW LB CC. White Platinum Lariat! 4x4
Now someone try to explain to me how the oil in the HPOP system is isolated in anyway?
Now someone try to explain why the oil in the reservoir is vastly different in appearance and color than the oil in the pan, after running new oil through the system for a couple of days. I would assume that if it does circulate at the rate that it's supposed to, that there would not be a perceivable difference between the two........but there is.
And "it isn't" isn't a valid answer here. Perhaps for some if that's what they experienced when doing this change, but for others there has definitely been a difference.
__________________
2001 F-350 Crew Cab XLT PSD 4x4, Long Bed, 6-speed, 3.73, Manual Transfer, Power TTT Mirrors, 122k miles.
1989 Toyota 4x4 xtracab SR5 V6, Beat to heck with 200k+ miles and still running strong.
Ok So this method may be old or wrong in ways I do not wven know about but I do know is gasoline engines that were not serviced properly they build carbon and clog up oil gallys and you end up with stuck lifters ect. I was taught to run a mixture of fresh clean oil, ATF and some WD 40 through the engine, obviously mainly engine oil then a quart or so of ATf and then a few cups of WD $0, it would really clean out the engine build up and clear out the lifters. CAN WE DO THIS WITH OUR DIESELS? seems like a good way to clean out all of the injectors and all of the oil ports , and since clean oil is the ticket with the 7.3 it seems like a good way to go. any thoughts?
IMHO, changing the oil in the HPOP is a waste of time. My truck is ten years old and I have never changed the HPOP oil. A few years ago, I took a drop of oil from the HPOP and the dip stick and put it on a piece of plastic. I could see no difference in the color between the two. If someone who is bothered by the HPOP oil, then go ahead and change it. In your mind it will feel better. However, if one wants to prove this conclusively, send two samples to Blackstone for comparrison. Then let everyone know the results. My .02
jgr
__________________
2000 F350, Ecab, LWB, SRW, 4X2, ZF6, Full Gauges, Ebrake, Chipped 271rwhp/584tq, Scan gauge II, Coolantfilter, fumoto valve, oil by-pass filter, CCV mod with return to intake, dahl 100, 40 gal. aux tank, straight piped, PML cover, 203 stat and billet, AIS, Zoodad
No, I would not try that. You would very likely get foaming, and foaming won't mesh well with our injection system. (It won't hydraulicly work with our injectors then.)
I would just rely on regular oil changes, good quality oil, and fuel, and planned maintenance to insure out engines and injection systems live a long life....
__________________
Jim T.*48* SLAPS Co-Founder, 30.8 yrs RETIRED UAW 6/01/06, Now an ART (Specialists Flight Chief) with the USAFR 414th MXS Seymour Johnson AFB. My pics!'03 Dually pics!, New truck, 2011 F-350 SRW LB CC. White Platinum Lariat! 4x4
However, if one wants to prove this conclusively, send two samples to Blackstone for comparrison.
I believe that's already been done, and IIRC, there was no significant difference. You could search for it in this forum.
The oil flows into the HPOP reservoir thru a check valve called the "quick fill check valve" that sends unfiltered oil to the HPOP res immediately, then when pressure builds in the HPOP res, the check valve closes and the res is fed filtered oil thru a standpipe and into the top of the res. The HPOP draws from the lower levels of the res (otherwise, the engine would stall shortly after starting from the HPOP starving for oil). And as others have pointed out, the oil discharges thru the injectors into the valve cover area.
Bottom line, if changing the HPOP res oil makes you feel good, go for it, but don't get A.R. over it. Your engine isn't going to grenade if you don't change it.
If you believe everything that the Powerstrokehelp guy says, you'll be led astray on some stuff. He's just flat WRONG on some of his videos, and his voice is just plain annoying, IMO.
I believe that's already been done, and IIRC, there was no significant difference. You could search for it in this forum.
What was done was.......someone took a sample of their oil pan oil, and a sample of their HPOP oil when they did an oil change.
I would like to see two samples taken by someone that has never done the HPOP change, and take the samples a day or two AFTER your lower oil change. I.E..........change your lower oil. Run the truck for two days. Oil should be the same in the HPOP as the pan by now with all the circulation that's supposed to happen. However, when you take these samples, they will look totally different......not the same as they should. These are the samples that should be sent to Blackstone for analysis. The one from the oil pan will be a dark amber color, and the one from the HPOP will be a nasty dark greenish black sample. Obviously look different, but you're right.....an analysis should be done to determine how much different from a component and structure standpoint.
__________________
2001 F-350 Crew Cab XLT PSD 4x4, Long Bed, 6-speed, 3.73, Manual Transfer, Power TTT Mirrors, 122k miles.
1989 Toyota 4x4 xtracab SR5 V6, Beat to heck with 200k+ miles and still running strong.
The AutoGuide.com network consists of the largest network of enthusiast-owned enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
AutoGuide.com provides the latest car reviews, auto show coverage, new car prices, and automotive news. The AutoGuide network operates more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share opinions as a community.