99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke Engine and DrivetrainDiscussion of the 99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 1999-Up Super Duty trucks and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 7.3L Power Stroke engine.
Just a survey, how my of you change the oil in the high pressure reservoir? I was on another web page, and mechanic had a video of how and why you should change that oil. He said, that oil doesn't get circulated to good, and you should change to protect the fuel injectors, and to prevent slug from settling in the bottom of the reservoir.
From previous post, most do not change the HPOP reservoir oil. I have done it a few times but not every time. Most claim it to be a waste of time. I do believe it helps a little bit because you do leave around 3 quarts in the reservoir and oil galleries when you do a oil change. This oil gets mixed with the new oil and you technically have decreased the new oils properties. Now is it enough to matter? Probably not, I have seen oil analysis reports where the person pulled a sample from the reservoir and the pan, and they did get different results. They were minor differences but they were different. I plan on putting in a by-pass filter for my oil and I think that will do a better job cleaning all of the oil which will make the high pressure oil cleaner. Obviously changing the reservoir oil will not hurt and could be done as a good measure for those that like to go above and beyond on their maintenance. I change my oil every 3k, so I overchange it to some standards, but I only put on 5k per year. I recently sent my oil in to Blackstone and they cam back telling me to run it 5k before the next sample.
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Ken
2002 F-350 CCLB 4X4, HD4R100 , Riffraff FRx, Riffraff CAC Boots & PRI's, Bellowed Up-Pipes, 4" Diamond Eye exhaust, Powerslot rotors, ATS Ported Compressor Housing, DP Tuner-F6, Autoenginuity, EEC-V Breakout Box, KCM S.S. HPX Line, S&B Filters intake, Quad Autometer gauge pod, Inovations canopy, Banks Big Head wastegate actuator, 6.0L Trans Cooler, Spin-on Transmission filter with custom bracket, Zoo-dad, Dieselsite Coolant Filter, Cobra 29LTD/NW CB, DVD and always looking to do more....
Just a survey, how my of you change the oil in the high pressure reservoir? I was on another web page, and mechanic had a video of how and why you should change that oil. He said, that oil doesn't get circulated to good, and you should change to protect the fuel injectors, and to prevent slug from settling in the bottom of the reservoir.
Your high pressure reservoir holds about a quart of oil. That oil is pumped to the injectors and the injectors then dump it under the valve cover and it is returned to the oil pan. The HPOP reservoir is level is maintained by the low pressure pump with oil from the oil pan. The injector oil/fuel ratio is 7:1. So do the math. For every 20 gallons of fuel you burn you flow 140 gallons of oil thru the reservoir. That is 560 times it's capacity.
The only thing you would accomplish by changing it is, you would get an additional quart of dirty oil out of your engine.
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2000 F250 Lariat CC SB 4x4 PSD Auto
I dont think at all it to be a waste of time or money, if you have 2 extra minutes and an oil extractor.
I also dont do it everytime, but Im trying mobil 1 synthetic next time and will surely be doing it before the change over. It cant hurt but its not a big deal if you skip it just like the other guys said.
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01' 7.3 4X4 DRK MTLC BLU, DP Tuner F5, AEM Intake, 4" Turboback Silverline Exhaust, BTS VB, AEM digital gauges(pyro, boost controller, trans temp), CCV mod, Rebuilt Injectors, Fuel tank Mods, 203T, 6.0 Trans Cooler, 185,000K and original tranny, so far so good.
i actually put this to the test after pulling out some very dark sludgy looking oil out of my hp oil res once, after reading that it circulates. I put some uv dye directly into the oil fill tube let the truck run a bit then stuck a small screwdriver into the hp oil rez to find that there was UV dye present. So it definately does cycle so I cant explain why it looked so awful when I had recently changed my oil. But yeah its mostly up to you.
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2001 PSD 7.3 auto DP Tuner, 4" TBE, KNN Intake (with filter charger), CCV Mod, DB Starter, Stancore GPR, ITP Overboost, John Wood installed valve body. External coolant filter. International Up Pipes.
I saw that video too, so I decided to give it a shot. I drove the truck about 30 min. to get oil hot, I pulled out the first 18 oz. and it was like thick BLACK syrup refilled and ran it 5 min. then repeat. I did this 10 times one right after the other going through 2 gal. of oil, just to try and flush the system out. I never pulled clean oil out BUT it was getting thinner and thinner more like the oil that I was putting in but it was still black. Oil on my dip stick was not black like this stuff. I know its part of the same oil system I just don't think its circulating the oil very well. I have only 80K on truck. I don't know if it did any good but I had to see for myself.
1973 K5 Blazer 383stroker,TrickFlow alum.heads,Crower forged rods-roller lifter cam-roller rockers,Keith Black10.5:1,Doug Thorley tri-y,MSD,ARP,Q-jet,on 1 ton axles,1991 front clip,3K miles on FULL body off rebuild
I suspect that is circulates a high volume oil. It's hard to argue with math from 444-4D.
The problem is that the the thicker sludge settles. I think the reservoir basically traps sludge while the fresh oil from the pan finds a path around it. That is why jroller may see recent die trace others still can find sludge in it after an oil change.
I don't know at what interval it should be changed but a good flushing every three or four oil changes can't hurt. Or when you change oil types??
I suspect that is circulates a high volume oil. It's hard to argue with math from 444-4D.
The problem is that the the thicker sludge settles. I think the reservoir basically traps sludge while the fresh oil from the pan finds a path around it. That is why jroller may see recent die trace other still can get still find sludge in it after an oil change.
I don't know at what interval it should be changed but a good flushing every three or four oil changes can't hurt. Or when you change oil types??
My engine doesn't have any sludge in it. The outlet for the reservoir is also on the bottom. And if it works exactly as you describe, the injectors still receive clean oil from the pan. But you are correct that changing it can't hurt.
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2000 F250 Lariat CC SB 4x4 PSD Auto
My engine doesn't have any sludge in it. The outlet for the reservoir is also on the bottom. And if it works exactly as you describe, the injectors still receive clean oil from the pan. But you are correct that changing it can't hurt.
If you keep clean oil in the engine, as you most likely do, you won't see sludge in it. I think it may be working like a titration filter, letting heavy particulates and high viscosity settle in the corners. If the oil is thick and heavy and you put in fresh clean oil, the lighter oil will take a direct path through the heavier dirty oil leaving artifacts behind.
So maybe if you change and clean the reservoir then keep your oil clean you'll keep that part clean.
Also the reservoir could be a good place to look when buying a used truck. If you find sludge in it then maybe the engine was not not cared for properly along the way.
Does everyone understand that there is a fine mesh screen that filters the oil in the HPOP resevior? When you put a vacuum hose into the resevior, you are pulling out whatever is in the screen. You cannot get to the bottom of the resevior without taking the res apart.
__________________ 2000 F250SD SCLB Lariat 4x4
.030 over Mahle pistons, fully studded, modified.
4R100 built by me with Suncoast/Transgo/Sonnax/Ford parts.
325/65/18 BFG A/Ts on Ultra rims, custom 4" lift with rear shackle flip(no blocks), Rancho 9000Xs, Homemade bypass fuel system, bypass oil filter, Racor CCV filter, 3.5/4/5 custom exhaust, 8 yr old DI 4 pos chip, and some other stuff.
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