99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke Engine and DrivetrainDiscussion of the 99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 1999-Up Super Duty trucks and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 7.3L Power Stroke engine.
Unless the PCM is completely fried, someone with a compatible can tool can hook it up and check the PCM. When they go bad most likely it's just a few circuits that fry, and it may still spit out codes to tell you what's going on.
If your issue is just a no-start, then it's very likely that your PCM is fine.
What are the specifics of your no-start? Does the WTS light come on when you turn the key to on, and then go off as normal? If no WTS light, it usually means that the PCM isn't getting power. Check your fuses, and if #30 (30A) under the dash is popped, that probably means your fuel heater has shorted. So crawl up under the hood and disconnect the electrical connector going to the back lower portion of the fuel filter housing (leaving it disconnected), then replace the blown fuse and see what happens. The fuel heater isn't critical, and you can fix it when time allows.
you can indeed test the PCM using a multi tester and a diagnostic tree that is in Ford Service manual. It is not easy but doable. I have done a few but you need the diagostic tree to follow the procedure. Maybe someone can scan and post it or have a link
99 F350 Super Duty CCLB 7.3 Auto DRW 150000 miles, multi disk converter,Hydra chip with TW tunes,ISSPRO EV2 pyro fuel trans
1996 F250 XLT Ext Cab, Powerstroke, 4x4 Dana 60, Bilsteins shocks, BTS Trans, BabySwamps,Tony Wildman Chip, AutoMeter Pyro/Trans/Boost, Tymar intake, MBRP 4 in turbo back exhaust, 209000 miles,D&B HT Starter
1996 F350 XL PowerStroke 4X4 DRW, Auto Trans, Stock Work Dump truck, DDP down pipe,Tymar intake, 113000 miles
No start 99 - need help
I posted the info below a couple days ago regarding my problem. I did check my GPR and it is not getting power to the GP's. I have also noticed that there isn't ant smoke when I turn it over, so I assume it is fuel related. I just don't know if it an electrical issue or not. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
My problem started several months ago with a stumbling problem only when it rained. It would occasionaly stall at a stop sign/light, but always restarted. Then it progressed to not starting when it was raining, but would start a day or two after the rain stopped. Now it won't start rain or shine. I have checked most of the things I found suggested in the forum to check, i.e. Fuses & relays, looked for water leaks/shorts, CPS(new), Batteries are brand new and crank very fast, HPOP level is fine, fuel pump is working(can't check pressure though), the glow plugs were replaced a couple years ago,(I have plugged the block heater in just to warm the motor in case they may have failed), unplgged the IPC and EBP. There isn't any smoke when it's cranking. Still no start. One thing that has changed during this is the WTS light use to come on for the usual lenght of time, now it doesn't come on at all. I did have a local mechanic run a scan with his Snap On Modis & it pulled P0603 & P0470. Neither of which sounds like would be the cause of the no start. Unfortunately this mechanic didn't know diesels or how to really use the scanner to diagnose one.
Can anyone help me or maybe know someone local that has and knows how to use a proper scanner? Unfortunately I'm not in a position to pay dealership prices to get it repaired.
First, you need a high-end scanner or diag system that can communicate with the PCM. Second, you plug in that scanner and communicate with the PCM. (I don't think reading codes is the same thing as communicating with the PCM.) If you can't communicate with the PCM, then your PCM is fried.
I don't know if the AutoEnginuity software and a laptop plugged into the port under the dash is "high end" enough. But I suspect it is. Otherwise, you need a $2,000 New Generation Star (NGS) or Snap-on tools scanner. Most programmer/tuners that can read codes, and the cheap scanners you can borrow from AutoZone, are not powerful enough to communicate with the PCM.
My Sierra Blanca in the sig pic was a great pickup for 11.5 years. I sold it a coupla years ago. I drove a hand-me-down 2003 F-150 SuperCrew 4.6L 2V for a while, but it was unacceptable for towing more than a rowboat. Replacement is a 2012 F-150 EcoBoost SuperCrew Lariat that tows my 5,000-pound TT like a dream.
How would I determine if water is in the IDM? Isn't it a sealed unit? Also, if the PCM connectors got wet, wouldn't theydry out after a few days, or could that have caused damage to the PCM?
I'm not Jim, but I can answer your question.
The IDM is "sealed" but it has a breather port on it that could let water in. I've seen quite a few that have had signs of water (corrosion) on the case and at the breather, so it's not out of the question for them to get wet.
The IDM is mounted behind the FX50 emblem on the driver's side, above the wheel well liner.
The PCM connector goes thru the firewall and is susceptible to spray. It's possible that it's getting water inside the connector and causing problems.
If you pull either one off, inspect for corrosion on the connector pins and evidence that the connector gasket is letting water in. When you put them back together, use some silicone dielectric grease at the gasket and a tiny bit at the terminals. Be sure especially on the IDM, that you wipe the excess off the face of the connector, or you may wind up getting pins shorted. I once goobered a bunch of dielectric on an IDM for a test and it threw a bunch of codes, including the "IDM failure" code. Took it back off and wiped the excess off, and it was fine.
I should be able to rule out the PCM and the IDM. I interchanged both of them in another 99 I found and that truck fired right up. Anybody have any other suggestions on what I could check out? I realize a scanner would be the best option, but I haven't been able to locate someone with one that can help me.
One thing that has changed during this is the WTS light use to come on for the usual lenght of time, now it doesn't come on at all. I did have a local mechanic run a scan with his Snap On Modis & it pulled P0603 & P0470.
Went back and looked at your post. If the WTS light won't come on, it usually means that your PCM isn't getting power, although another cause would be that the WTS bulb is burnt out. Do the SES and other instrument warning lights come on as you turn on the key as they normally should?
The fact that you could get codes pulled means that the PCM has power, though.
The other thing is if you checked fuses, you should always check them with a multimeter. They can sometimes look good, but actually be burnt out.
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