7.3L Power Stroke Engine and DrivetrainDiscussion of the 7.3L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 1999-Up Super Duty trucks and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 7.3L Power Stroke engine.
Well the subject says it all. Somthing is loose under my front end, I dont know what but definately something. I found my tie rod adjustment sleeve thing was very loose and the tie rod was wobbling around inside, I fixed that but there is still another problem. Also just installed new PS pump & new dual steering stabilizers. It helped a litte but there is still somthing wrong. I thought maybe a bad ball joint(s)?
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Early 99 F250 PSD 4x4 Born 03/98, Superchips programmer,warn manual hubs, straight thru exhaust, AIS intake system w/fender foam piece, Autometer full pillar cluster,Euro headlights, In-tank pre-pump & vent tube mods, 3" Trailmaster level kit, fabtech adj track bar, Skyjacker Dual Steering Stabilizers, Rhinoliner, 35" Pro Comp A/T on 17 x 10 Ultras, ART rotors & PF pads w/ATE blue DOT 4,Brand new 4R100 Tranny & 2 coolers w/mobil 1, A/C mod from dieselsite, coolant filter kit from dieselsite, boost tube & over boost valve from black cloud, covercraft seat covers, Redhead Steering Gear,& '93 F150 lightning w/everything!
"Theres never time to do it right but theres always time to do it over" - So true
Jack the front of the vehicle off the ground. While someone pushes and pulls the top and bottom of the tire, watch the ball joints for movement. Pushing and pulling the tire from side to side will show any slack in the wheel bearings or other steering components.
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Here is most of what you need to know on getting your 7.3L started and how to operate it in the cold winter months. These posts use to readily available, but they've been hid in a subforum top of the 7.3 Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain forum. Winter Operation (How I Do It) Hard/No Start? Check here first
Please correct me if I'm wrong here. When I check for loose/worn ball joints I jack up the tire and use a steel bar under the tire to lift it and watch the joints for any movement.
Yeah this would work, but putting the bar between the knuckle and the axle is easier to see with less movement. You should not be able to move anything under there concerning the ball joints. If it moves, it's bad. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/phoney.gif[/img]
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Early 99' F250 XLT SD SC SWB PSD, 4x4 Auto Hubs, Ford AIS, 6leaker OEM cooler, Htr Core by pass valve, Synthetic every fluid (Mobil), Detroit LOCKER, BTS, Lunar Autometer gauges, DI 6-pos chip SVO Conversion Updated SVO stuff
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Two ideas when combined together will always make a third better idea!
I don't have to be wrong for you to be right.
Kent
@235K miles @ 071127
>202K miles @ 070828
2001 F350 7.3 PSD SD CC DRW Lariat, 4R100 (replaced at 41k w/rebuilt by dealer), 3.73, FX4 ESOF, Long Box - 3rd CPS. CPS in Glove Box MOD. K&N Filter. 6.0 OTA Cooler. Green to Red Coolant. Water filter. 203º T-stat. Fumoto Valve. Monroe Gasmatic Shocks.
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