'99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke Engine and DrivetrainDiscussion of the 99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 1999-Up Super Duty trucks and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 7.3L Power Stroke engine.
I have a 2000 Ford F350 with 7.3 engine, stock. It is very hard to start, seems to crank at half the speed of another 7.3, It has to have block heater plugged in and then must crank on it for a long time, more than once, when it does start must hold pedal off idle, sounds like it has a miss, after a while it will smooth out, but has a sound like open valve coming from air box.
In the truck, you can test them by doing a cylinder contribution test, a buzz test, or by watching the %deceleration (PERDEL) with a scanner. You could also observe the oil flow from individual injectors while the engine is running. Out of the truck, there are injector shops that can bench test them.
However - injectors won't cause a change in cranking speed. That sounds more like batteries and/or starter issues. Also, the miss could be from one or more bad glow plugs.
2003 F-250 XLT Crew Cab 7.3L, Chrome BigTex Grille Guard, Quad pillar - 3 ISSPRO gauges (trans, pyro, boost) and DP-Tuner F6; Roush fuel pressure / temperature / oil pressure gauges, Ford Severe Duty AIS, 31 row 6.0 transmission cooler, ScanGauge II, Marinco mod, Walker BTM
replaced both batteries, charged to 14.4 volts, cleaned battery connections, checked battery cables on each side of connections for corosion, found none. replaced all glow plugs and relay. even with the block heater plugged in, it will not start now. It sounds like it wants to but will not seem to hit no all cyl, only a couple.
Have you replaced the starter? I had a OEM starter that was starting to crap out and would barely turn the engine over during cold weather....I upgraded to a DB high torque starter and HUGE difference in cranking time. You could have the best batteries in the world, but if the starter is crappin out on you, you're gonna be hard pressed to turn the engine over.
2000 F250 7.3L Lariat, Crew Cab/Short bed 4x4. AFE stage II intake. Magnaflow 3.5DP/4" SS exhaust. Isspro gauges (EGT, Boost, Trans Temp) AIH Delete with riffraff boost fitting adapter, Foil delete, Muffler Delete, CCV Mod, Performance tranny from Revmaxx, Revmaxx stage 4 triple disc low stall torque converter, Revmaxx performance valve body with custom shift kit. 6.0 tranny cooler, ported compressor housing, turbomaster wastegate controller, garret high flow outlet, Non EBPV pedestal, dieselsite boot kit, Marinco mod, Fuel Bowl mod, HPX mod, Riffraff Frx, DP F6 tuner (60 tow, 80 econo, 120 race, High idle 1200, Drive Thru) Warn Hubs, Moog Balljoints, 08 tailights, 05-07 front end conversion, 08-11 rear end conversion, Line-xed rocker panels/wheel wells/bumpers
I would take the starter off and take it and have it tested . Then I know this sucks specially if you have everything back on the motor but you need to test your UVCH and Valve cover gaskets to make sure you are getting a good connection . You may have a easy fix that just requires a little time and effort to pin point it . THis is if the starter checks out fine . None of these cost money to check just time .
The AutoGuide.com network consists of the largest network of enthusiast-owned enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
AutoGuide.com provides the latest car reviews, auto show coverage, new car prices, and automotive news. The AutoGuide network operates more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share opinions as a community.