99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke Engine and DrivetrainDiscussion of the 99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 1999-Up Super Duty trucks and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 7.3L Power Stroke engine.
Has anyone seen where the boost is working, but, at less pressure than stock?
Standard checking reveals no problem.
My 1991 vaccum pump did this to me.
Thanks, Y2KPSD
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2011 F-350 CC DRW KR Everything except Moon roof & Rear DVD - Job 2 - 11/23 build date
SOLD -2000 F-350 SRW, ORDERED 8/22/99, Built & released from Manufacturing 10/2/99/, At dealer 10/19/99, Picked up 10/22/99, 2000 F-350, CC, SRW, LWB, PSD, 6sp, Power-T-Mirrors - 54E, 4x4, Camper Setup, TT, Island Blue, Steps, CD, P-Glass, Manual 4WD Shift/Hubs, Warranty Voiding CUPHOLDER (saved a lot of money on ESP)
SOLD - 1991 SRW F350 7.3
SOLD - 1987 SRW F250 460 Gas
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Andy
Early 99 5-98, F350 extended cab, DRW LB 245,000 miles and counting, Hood insulation delete (Soaked with fuel), Hutch mod, Harpoon mod. Otherwise, pure stock (for now)
You only need two tools: WD-40 and Duct Tape. If it doesn't move and should, use the WD-40. If it shouldn't move and does, use the duct tape.
Your power for your brakes come from your power steering pump...
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2011 F-350 CC DRW KR Everything except Moon roof & Rear DVD - Job 2 - 11/23 build date
SOLD -2000 F-350 SRW, ORDERED 8/22/99, Built & released from Manufacturing 10/2/99/, At dealer 10/19/99, Picked up 10/22/99, 2000 F-350, CC, SRW, LWB, PSD, 6sp, Power-T-Mirrors - 54E, 4x4, Camper Setup, TT, Island Blue, Steps, CD, P-Glass, Manual 4WD Shift/Hubs, Warranty Voiding CUPHOLDER (saved a lot of money on ESP)
SOLD - 1991 SRW F350 7.3
SOLD - 1987 SRW F250 460 Gas
I understand that, just do not understand your question.
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Andy
Early 99 5-98, F350 extended cab, DRW LB 245,000 miles and counting, Hood insulation delete (Soaked with fuel), Hutch mod, Harpoon mod. Otherwise, pure stock (for now)
You only need two tools: WD-40 and Duct Tape. If it doesn't move and should, use the WD-40. If it shouldn't move and does, use the duct tape.
brakes take more pedel pressure than when I bought it new.
I was asking if it's possible the pump was producing less pump pressure, than when new...
I had this problem before (although them it was a vacuum pump for brakes)
Thx
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2011 F-350 CC DRW KR Everything except Moon roof & Rear DVD - Job 2 - 11/23 build date
SOLD -2000 F-350 SRW, ORDERED 8/22/99, Built & released from Manufacturing 10/2/99/, At dealer 10/19/99, Picked up 10/22/99, 2000 F-350, CC, SRW, LWB, PSD, 6sp, Power-T-Mirrors - 54E, 4x4, Camper Setup, TT, Island Blue, Steps, CD, P-Glass, Manual 4WD Shift/Hubs, Warranty Voiding CUPHOLDER (saved a lot of money on ESP)
SOLD - 1991 SRW F350 7.3
SOLD - 1987 SRW F250 460 Gas
Have you checked for air in the lines. How about sticky caliper slide pins. How is your PS fluid level. Is it pink and shiny or dull and brown. Does your steering take more force than normal.
Could be a lot of things, up to and including a pad PS pump. Hard to tell. But that should give some starting points.
BTW how do the pads look. If they get a little thin, they can get hot and decrease stopping ability (require more pedal force).
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Andy
Early 99 5-98, F350 extended cab, DRW LB 245,000 miles and counting, Hood insulation delete (Soaked with fuel), Hutch mod, Harpoon mod. Otherwise, pure stock (for now)
You only need two tools: WD-40 and Duct Tape. If it doesn't move and should, use the WD-40. If it shouldn't move and does, use the duct tape.
New Front Calipers / Rotors / pads, less than 3000 miles total on them.
I had a MAJOR load on my brakes going down a long 10% grade w/trailer.
FAD / SMOKE everywhere (Pedel on the floor, when I actually came to a stop). When I got home, I again replaced my pads (less then 1000 miles on them, just to be safe). Not sure if I had all the braking I needed then either. Jackson Hole, Wy, is a nice place to visit, but my new trailer is much heavier than my old. Probably should take the other route (less steep).
Thx
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2011 F-350 CC DRW KR Everything except Moon roof & Rear DVD - Job 2 - 11/23 build date
SOLD -2000 F-350 SRW, ORDERED 8/22/99, Built & released from Manufacturing 10/2/99/, At dealer 10/19/99, Picked up 10/22/99, 2000 F-350, CC, SRW, LWB, PSD, 6sp, Power-T-Mirrors - 54E, 4x4, Camper Setup, TT, Island Blue, Steps, CD, P-Glass, Manual 4WD Shift/Hubs, Warranty Voiding CUPHOLDER (saved a lot of money on ESP)
SOLD - 1991 SRW F350 7.3
SOLD - 1987 SRW F250 460 Gas
Did you do the brake job or someone else? Do you have trailer brakes? After the braking episode, did you do anything to the rotors. If not, they are glazed over and slick as a babies butt and get even slicker when they warm up. At the very least go get some 60 grit emory cloth and rough up them rotors, pull the pads out and rough them up on some concrete. Contrary to popular belief, a baby butt smooth rotor and pad is not good. A good rotor should feel about like about 160 grit sandpaper.
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Andy
Early 99 5-98, F350 extended cab, DRW LB 245,000 miles and counting, Hood insulation delete (Soaked with fuel), Hutch mod, Harpoon mod. Otherwise, pure stock (for now)
You only need two tools: WD-40 and Duct Tape. If it doesn't move and should, use the WD-40. If it shouldn't move and does, use the duct tape.
New pads, front rotors had a "finish" turn.
But you have a very good point, I never touched the rears.
The power steering itself seems fine..
OK.
I'll turn all the rotors (almost new, before all the smoke [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img] ), and replace all pads. NAPA sells parts to our (and MANY) company employees at BIG discounts, so let's be safe.
Thanks, Y2KPSD
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2011 F-350 CC DRW KR Everything except Moon roof & Rear DVD - Job 2 - 11/23 build date
SOLD -2000 F-350 SRW, ORDERED 8/22/99, Built & released from Manufacturing 10/2/99/, At dealer 10/19/99, Picked up 10/22/99, 2000 F-350, CC, SRW, LWB, PSD, 6sp, Power-T-Mirrors - 54E, 4x4, Camper Setup, TT, Island Blue, Steps, CD, P-Glass, Manual 4WD Shift/Hubs, Warranty Voiding CUPHOLDER (saved a lot of money on ESP)
SOLD - 1991 SRW F350 7.3
SOLD - 1987 SRW F250 460 Gas
If your brakes got hot I would recommend changing the brake fluid.
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If you live in AZ come join us at Arizona Powerstroke Group... Click here http://www.azpsg.com/index.php?referrerid=6
99.5 F-350 BTS Trans / Termys / Swamps 200/30 AA Injectors / Swamps IDM / GT38R BB Turbo / AFE Stage 2 / DP/ Evans Coolant, ART Rotors / Dynatrac Spin Free HD Front Hubs, 4 inch Stainless Exhaust, Auto Meter Cobalt Gauges.
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2011 F-350 CC DRW KR Everything except Moon roof & Rear DVD - Job 2 - 11/23 build date
SOLD -2000 F-350 SRW, ORDERED 8/22/99, Built & released from Manufacturing 10/2/99/, At dealer 10/19/99, Picked up 10/22/99, 2000 F-350, CC, SRW, LWB, PSD, 6sp, Power-T-Mirrors - 54E, 4x4, Camper Setup, TT, Island Blue, Steps, CD, P-Glass, Manual 4WD Shift/Hubs, Warranty Voiding CUPHOLDER (saved a lot of money on ESP)
SOLD - 1991 SRW F350 7.3
SOLD - 1987 SRW F250 460 Gas
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