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99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain Discussion of the 99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 1999-Up Super Duty trucks and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 7.3L Power Stroke engine.

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Old 05-02-2011, 09:33 AM   #1 (permalink)
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hydrolocked, what do I do now

I posted my problems leading up to this in the bio diesel forums on this site.

But as of right now I just want to know how to get my truck started and home. My truck is most definaetly hydrolocked right now. Can I just through a breaker bar on it and turn it back and forth to try getting it to turn over?
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Old 05-02-2011, 09:37 AM   #2 (permalink)
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NO! You have to find which cylinder is hydrolocked and fix the problem. Otherwise it will just re-occur. You could also break something trying to force the fluid out with the breaker bar.

Pull a valve cover and then the glow plugs on that side - try your breaker bar. If it moves easier and you get a fountain out of one of the glow plug holes, you've identified your problem cylinder. This works better with an assistant, so you can watch the holes and get a sample of the fluid. That will help you determine what went wrong. For example, if you pull coolant - the fix would be different than if you pulled oil, and different than if you pulled diesel.

If you don't get lucky on the first side, pull the other valve cover and repeat. Post back as soon as you figure out which fluid we're dealing with.
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Old 05-02-2011, 09:41 AM   #3 (permalink)
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NO! You have to find which cylinder is hydrolocked and fix the problem. Otherwise it will just re-occur. You could also break something trying to force the fluid out with the breaker bar.

Pull a valve cover and then the glow plugs on that side - try your breaker bar. If it moves easier and you get a fountain out of one of the glow plug holes, you've identified your problem cylinder. This works better with an assistant, so you can watch the holes and get a sample of the fluid. That will help you determine what went wrong. For example, if you pull coolant - the fix would be different than if you pulled oil, and different than if you pulled diesel.

If you don't get lucky on the first side, pull the other valve cover and repeat. Post back as soon as you figure out which fluid we're dealing with.

I realize that it will just reoccure, but im not in the position to work on it here in the parkinglot, i was hoping for a way to drive it home and work on it there without paying a tow truck.

It hydrolocked on my sunday morning and i didnt realize what it was. After that first time hydrolocking, i started it 6-8 times with no problems..
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Old 05-02-2011, 09:43 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Well - its kind of like throwing the dice with a $8000 motor - depends how lucky you're feeling. Especially since you dodged the bullet once already....
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Old 05-02-2011, 09:52 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Well - its kind of like throwing the dice with a $8000 motor - depends how lucky you're feeling. Especially since you dodged the bullet once already....
crap thats what I was affraid of...
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Old 05-02-2011, 09:54 AM   #6 (permalink)
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if i rotate it backwards enough, shouldnt i be able to push whatever liquid is in there out the exhaust port?
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Old 05-02-2011, 10:07 AM   #7 (permalink)
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It would go out through the intake valve depending where you are on the cycle. If you were on the downstroke after an ignition even, you'd just be pushing against two closed valves. Remember, exhaust is only open on the upstroke of the exhaust cycle - if you were there, the fluid would go easily with forward rotation.
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Old 05-02-2011, 10:15 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Get a tow truck. Or Find someone with a trailer. Not worth the risk
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Old 05-02-2011, 10:16 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Yeah.. Don't know what I was thinking when I posted that..

On an unrelaed note.. Am I able to use my brakes at all when the truck isn't running for towing purposes?
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Old 05-02-2011, 10:22 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Unassisted braking - ok if you've got the leg strength. Just keep the speeds down and you should be ok. Steering will be fun too. Quite a workout.
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Old 05-02-2011, 10:30 AM   #11 (permalink)
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I have a buddy on his way here to tow me.. While I was waiting I turned he truck over by hand.. One way was bound up, the other way turned fine.. I rotated it backwards(I think) 2-3 rotations, then I was able to rotate it forward again without it hydrolocking.. I'm not going to attempt to start it though.. While I was poking around, I noticed that I am low on antifreeze.. So does that imply that an injector cup cracked? The truck didn't overheat.
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Last edited by parisot; 05-02-2011 at 10:38 AM.
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Old 05-02-2011, 11:54 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Move the seat up a few inches use both feet and don't yank to hard on the steering wheel. Good luck and keep it slow.
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Old 05-03-2011, 05:53 AM   #13 (permalink)
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thanks everyone for your help. I got it home last night and started tearing into it. I have some pictures i will post in a little bit. I dont have internet at home, so i have to post all of my questions during the day and then work on the truck in the evening.
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Old 05-03-2011, 06:32 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Attached bellow are pictures. For starters, since the truck wasn’t hydrolocked anymore because I turned it over by hand, I was unable to find out which cylinder had fluid in it by pulling the glow plug. I ended up pulling all the glow plugs and then all of the injectors. Looking at the injectors, the o-rings were all getting old and though they may not have been leaking, they appeared to be on their last leg. I took a picture of the one that was leaking and posted it below.

After taking the injectors out, upon further investigation, I noticed there was a white build up on the front driver side head. I took a picture of this as well. I thought this was an indicator of a blown head gasket, so I pulled the head off. Apparently the water pump has been leaking and caused this because the gasket was in good shape.

Tonight if I can work on it, I plan to check the stroke of the hydrolocked piston compared to the stroke of the others to insure that I did not bend the connecting rod.

What I need to know is:
Since I have all the injectors pulled, should I have them tested? Truck has 180,000 miles on it
What should I replace on the injectors? Bottom o-rings obviously, copper washer?, other o-rings?
Should I clean the injectors?
What would be a good manual/book to buy that would give me the torque specs on this motor?

Thanks for your help.




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Old 05-03-2011, 09:13 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by parisot View Post
What I need to know is:
1. Since I have all the injectors pulled, should I have them tested? Truck has 180,000 miles on it
2. What should I replace on the injectors? Bottom o-rings obviously, copper washer?, other o-rings?
3. Should I clean the injectors?
4. What would be a good manual/book to buy that would give me the torque specs on this motor?
1. I think you should - one of them is likely the source of your hydrolock. The o-rings wouldn't cause that, it would have to be a leaking injector if fuel was the cause of the hydrolock. Make sure and check your injector cups. Also, use a feeler gauge and check the poppet clearance - here's how: http://www.dieselpro.ca/Poppet%20Valve.pdf

2. Replace everything - it comes in the kit. Make sure the old copper washer comes out with every injector. You can get the kits here: Replacement O-rings for Ford Diesel Engines

3. Proper cleaning requires dissasembly - a little too technical for most. If they fail the bench tests, best to just replace them.

4. AllData is an online service manual - it costs about 26 bucks for the first vehicle and 16 for each additional. It has step by step instructions along with specifications, part numbers, and more. https://www.alldatadiy.com/
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Last edited by RT; 05-03-2011 at 09:16 AM.
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