99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke Engine and DrivetrainDiscussion of the 99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 1999-Up Super Duty trucks and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 7.3L Power Stroke engine.
There was an issue with a batch of trucks that had defective throw-out forks. As I recall, they were made in such a way that they had a weak area in them, and after a lot of use, would bend or break. The new, replacement forks (from Ford) are of an updated design, and stronger in the subject area.
Sorry to give you bad news...but it sounds to me like you may need to pull the trans and check it out. Maybe you've got a bad clutch, too (?).
Good luck
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Al in SoCal
2000 F350 SRW CC 4X4 AFE Stage II w/PG-7 Garrett 38R Turbo Swamps Stage II Single-shots Stealth Dual-HPOP ITP Custom-modified Regulated-return Fuel System DP-Tuner PCM & F-5 chip (Live tuned!) Autometer Gauges (Pyro, Boost, Eng oil temp)
Non-EBPV Pedestal
AIH Delete
"T444e" Open CCV
4" Custom S/S Exhaust into 5" Dual Aussie Stacks
ZF 6-Spd "Hand-shaker" Southbend Double-Disc clutch
...plus some other goodies...
I have a March '09. Last year my fork went, pretty much broke in half. You can tell by measuring the distance from the housing to the contact point on the fork vs the length of the slave cylinder rod. I don't know the exact measurement, but if its longer than the slave rod, I would think it's shot. It was not that bad to replace.
not sure if this may help you or not... i ran into that same prob with a ford ranger a while back i like to drove me crazy! some ford mc have to be "pressure blead" there is a kit you can buy to do this but if you are really careful you can drill a smalle hole in the top of the reservoir and put a SMALL amount of air to it while someone is under the truck working the bleeder valve. watch your fluid (it drains fast) and no more then 5 or 10 psi otherwise the cap will blow off and brake fluid goes everywhere! remember brakefluid eats paint!!! its worth a try... if you have any more questions pm me
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02 F-250 7.3 Lariat 4X4 4" manaflow Exhaust, AFE stage II intake, Industrial Injection 530 Hybrid injectors, Comp Cams cam, valve springs and solid pushrods, ARP Head Studs, H2E modified turbo kit, Boost fooler, HX hose, Adrenaline HPOP, FASS Fuel System, DI regulated return, DI intercooler, DI 6 poss chip, Circle D billit triple disc converter and full billit trans, Auburn lockers (front & rear), Forged rod & Piston short block, Fluidampr balancer, HP????? going to bts for dyno tuning in mid june... Wanna Play??
some ford mc have to be "pressure blead" ...put a SMALL amount of air to it while someone is under the truck working the bleeder valve.
The Super duty clutch hydraulic system is all plastic. There are no bleeder valves in the system.
Ford does sell a pre-filled, pre-bled assembly (I think that's what the OP purchased and installed) which is highly recommended if you need to do any work on the system.
There is a factory in-vehicle bleeding procedure, but it's a PIA, and really does not work very well. But here it is:
__________________
Al in SoCal
2000 F350 SRW CC 4X4 AFE Stage II w/PG-7 Garrett 38R Turbo Swamps Stage II Single-shots Stealth Dual-HPOP ITP Custom-modified Regulated-return Fuel System DP-Tuner PCM & F-5 chip (Live tuned!) Autometer Gauges (Pyro, Boost, Eng oil temp)
Non-EBPV Pedestal
AIH Delete
"T444e" Open CCV
4" Custom S/S Exhaust into 5" Dual Aussie Stacks
ZF 6-Spd "Hand-shaker" Southbend Double-Disc clutch
...plus some other goodies...
Or ... the the clutch fork is bent/broken. The only reason I thank that the fork is not bad is that I'm not sure it is an issue on an early '99 ( it's really a '98 )
The early Superduty trucks WERE the ones with the weak clutch fork. I have a 1/99 build (99.5) and when I changed the clutch I bought the newer fork and put it in, even though that wasn't the issue with my clutch. The new fork was definitely beefier than the original.
I'm guessing that the fork is your problem, and as the other guys said, you should be able to remove the slave and check for depth to the fork.
To the OP... you said that after the prebled unit install you had what felt like proper pedal and it all seemed to work other than the clutch just wouldn't disengage? That would sound to me like a pressure plate or spring issue. No?
__________________ '02 F-350 "Babe The Big Blue Truck" 4x4, Ext. Cab, 8' bed, SRW
DP-Tuner 80T, Stage I single shots, ported compressor and 1.0 A/R turbine housings, coolant filter, 6637, DIY exhaust brake, openair CCV, propane, SBC DD all ceramic clutch, ISSPRO EV boost/pyro/HPOP pres./rear end temp, 4" lift, 255/70R22.5 tires, York air compressor, 16 flashy lights, 12 strobes, 12 switches on console, 9 switches on the dash, 7 two-way radios, 5 air horns, laptop, siren, 105 gal. in-bed fuel tank, Kennesaw Mountain front bumper
'86 H-D Sportster - 16" apes on 4" risers, 4 gal tank, custom paint, custom pipes to fishtails, single fire ignition, Accell wires, mid '90s Harley leather saddle bags on custom brackets, bagger fender, solo seat, home made luggage rack, all LED rear lights
'66 Bronco "Big Little Monster" - 5.0L EFI, AOD, 3.5" lift, 3" body lift, 35" BFGs, Lock-Rite front, mini spool rear, disk brakes, Warn Hubs
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Wanna Play??
), AIS, 
Linear Mode
