99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke Engine and DrivetrainDiscussion of the 99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 1999-Up Super Duty trucks and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 7.3L Power Stroke engine.
Does anyone have any recommendations for a good injector cleaner fuel additive? I mean can you notice the results in power and mileage? Thanks for the help.
Well, I have put all sorts of snake oil in my tanks. However, the best stuff I have ever found was on the injector tester bench. I took out 6 injectors out of my MB diesel and had them tested. 5 were good and one was spraying badly and had lower pop off pressure. They disassembled it and cleaned it till it was just as good as the others. Power was a little better and ran smoother according to the wife who didn't know what I did. So, before I spend money on that snake oil, I'd make sure the injectors were good or bad. I would do my MB again after 100K. For the truck, I would probably do it at 150K.
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01 Excursion 7.3L Powerstroke. Gauges with AIH Delete, AIS, CCV Mod, 4' MBRP, BTS Trans, 6.0L Trans Cooler and Intercooler, DP-Tuner F5 chip, ITP In Tank Mod and Boost Annihilator, Diesel Innovation's Regulated Fuel kit, BTS Big Oil system, GTP38R Turbo with 1.15 A/R housing and BPD Stage II AC injectors. Bilstein Shocks with U code front and A code Rear.
stanadyne is good. you mentioned seafoam. not familiar w/ it but a tech on our ford message board said a customer poured some of this down his intake & damaged some of the pushrods & rockers. don't do this. thought his eng. was damaged for good. its probably just as bad as using either & too much at one time. either is not recommended for these engs.
Hi kan. After reading this thread, I logged onto the Sea Foam site and found these directions:
1. Fill primary fuel filter with SEA FOAM. Be sure filter is fully primed to prevent air locks. This will clean injectors quickly.
2. Use 1 pint of SEA FOAM to every 25 gallons of diesel fuel to add lubricity, clean fuel lines, injector pump and remove moisture.
3. Use 1 pint of SEA FOAM to every 4 gallons of oil to clean rings and other engine parts internally. For best results, use SEA FOAM for 1 hour before oil change. Results in cleaner engines and longer oil change intervals.
This lists three 'separate' procedures for the product. I don't know about you, but it takes me about 2 hours to replace the fuel filter, so I really don't want to get into that. However, adding it to the fuel or oil just before changing wouldn't be a problem. Which of the the 3 procedures do you follow? Or do you do all three?
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2012 F-350 SD Crew Cab, SRW, LWB, 4 X 4, FX4 Offroad, White Platinum w/Adobe, Navigation, Moon Roof, 5th Wheel Prep, Step Tail Gate, King Ranch Package
I have used Stanadyne for years about every 3rd tank. I recently tried Howe's and got the best MPG so far in my truck. It only picked up just under 1 MPG, but with these fuel prices, every little bit helps.
I have used 1 & 2, both with good results, option 2 you will notice a differance within a tank. Option 1, you will notice a differance within a few seconds. Just bleed the fuel canister, fill with seafoam, start like you would when changing a filter, smile, drink a beer, or in my case a Makers Mark and water. Bourbon mixes with water a lot better than diesel.
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Andy
Early 99 5-98, F350 extended cab, DRW LB 245,000 miles and counting, Hood insulation delete (Soaked with fuel), Hutch mod, Harpoon mod. Otherwise, pure stock (for now)
You only need two tools: WD-40 and Duct Tape. If it doesn't move and should, use the WD-40. If it shouldn't move and does, use the duct tape.
"I have used 1 & 2, both with good results, option 2 you will notice a differance within a tank."
Who said anything about dumping into the intake?
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Andy
Early 99 5-98, F350 extended cab, DRW LB 245,000 miles and counting, Hood insulation delete (Soaked with fuel), Hutch mod, Harpoon mod. Otherwise, pure stock (for now)
You only need two tools: WD-40 and Duct Tape. If it doesn't move and should, use the WD-40. If it shouldn't move and does, use the duct tape.
"customer poured some of this down his intake & damaged some of the pushrods & rockers. don't do this."
OOPS
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Andy
Early 99 5-98, F350 extended cab, DRW LB 245,000 miles and counting, Hood insulation delete (Soaked with fuel), Hutch mod, Harpoon mod. Otherwise, pure stock (for now)
You only need two tools: WD-40 and Duct Tape. If it doesn't move and should, use the WD-40. If it shouldn't move and does, use the duct tape.
1) You drive or idle the truck for the suggested 1 hour?
2) The amount of time after you add SF and run the truck until the oil can be changed?
i only ask because I have about a 45 minute ride to work, but then it would be 4-6 hours until I could actually change it. Just wondering if it would be better to put it in before I leave and then change it when I can, or to idle it for an hour before I immediately change it, or 3) wait until I'm home...
I would add it when I came out from work and change my oil as soon as I got home, except for the two beers of course (forty-five minutes home, two beers = 45 min.)
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Andy
Early 99 5-98, F350 extended cab, DRW LB 245,000 miles and counting, Hood insulation delete (Soaked with fuel), Hutch mod, Harpoon mod. Otherwise, pure stock (for now)
You only need two tools: WD-40 and Duct Tape. If it doesn't move and should, use the WD-40. If it shouldn't move and does, use the duct tape.
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