99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke Engine and DrivetrainDiscussion of the 99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 1999-Up Super Duty trucks and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 7.3L Power Stroke engine.
I just bought a 99 350 7.3. It has an exhaust leak that I knew when I bought it.
I drove it home as expected it lost power and broke up a bit around 1900 rpm. The next day it was hard to start and ran rough until it got to temp. So I had it checked out. I was told it would not throw any codes until it was up to temp and it said turbo or boost that was a given bot it also said that all the injectors on the passenger side were bad. I asked if it was a harness and was told that the harness was ok on in the scan.
So my question is has anyone ever encountered the loss of all 4 injectors on the same side at the same time?
And is there a good home scanner that is reasonable or should i just get a programer that can do it also?
Hey! superduty1 It would not be likely to lose all 4 injectors at once. especially all on one side. I would suspect the harness and or connectors. As far as a scanner for codes a programmer only gives you basic info you would be better off buying an AE auto engineuity with the ford enhanced package for about $300 it runs off laptop. It will allow you to do live data logging as well as cylinder contribution test and buzz test. Much better in the long run just as good as any ford dealership can do. Good Luck! Mike
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I have a 95 F350 PS/DRW/LB which I bought in 05' with 102,000mi from original owner as of 6/29/12 it has 920,798 mi.on the original engine.It runs great and pulls even better.It pulls commercially anything and everything that pays me money Ha,Ha.Uprades done are an all steel cowl induction hood to help get the heat out of the engine bay,Banks inter-cooler hardware kit using a cooler from a 99 PS,TRUCOOL tranny cooler,Magtech alum.finned tranny and rear diff.covers,DP tunes 40T,60T,60E.S&W guages BST/Trans.Temp/EGT,K&N cold air intake,BD 4"exhaust,HPturbochargers did my upgrades on turbo with banks impeller(a little diff.pitch and height than the stock garrett splitter wheel) and 1.0 exh.for faster spool-up WOW!I'm hoping to hit 1 million miles or more before having to put my drop-in crate engine in.I can only hope that it will be just as good.Hopefully! I can be of assistance to any one needing help with thier PS with problems that I may or may not have encountered.GOOD LUCK!
There's a pretty common malfunction where the wiring harness wears through on one side of the engine block and cause crap like what you're dealing with...I'm sure someone will chime in with exactly where that is, I can't remember.
There's a pretty common malfunction where the wiring harness wears through on one side of the engine block and cause crap like what you're dealing with...I'm sure someone will chime in with exactly where that is, I can't remember.
My sig . . . .
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1999.5 F250 creeping up on 400k.
Ok have a little update. Got the leaks fixed it is still cold natured but not nearly as bad once warms up it runs fine. Any other ideas? I haven't got the software for my laptop yet so my question is do the glow plus throw a code? Next month I am going to do the injectors, harness, and plugs.
I would not even bother with injectors, till you can get things checked out. KLhansen has a link in his sig on how to test glowplugs, and glowplug relay. There are other sensors that need to be checked as well. ICP, IPR, ebps, cps, are common sensors that need attention.
I would also pull the valve covers and make sure the harness is properly seated. Also make sure the connections to the gp's and injectors are properly seated, etc. the under valve cover harness's are know to work loose. might look into the 50cent mod.
as others said you do not have 4 bad injectors, especially on 1 side. if your injectors were bad, it would not suddenly run fine when warmed up. do plenty of homework before you start diggin into this too much.
You definitely want autoenginuity or find someone in your area willing to help you out. Sounds like you need to do a thorough inspection of the truck and slowly replace anything in question or that you might find to be bad.
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03 F350 7.3L Auto CC LB Dually 410's (LS Rear)
I would not even bother with injectors, till you can get things checked out. KLhansen has a link in his sig on how to test glowplugs, and glowplug relay. There are other sensors that need to be checked as well. ICP, IPR, ebps, cps, are common sensors that need attention.
I would also pull the valve covers and make sure the harness is properly seated. Also make sure the connections to the gp's and injectors are properly seated, etc. the under valve cover harness's are know to work loose. might look into the 50cent mod.
as others said you do not have 4 bad injectors, especially on 1 side. if your injectors were bad, it would not suddenly run fine when warmed up. do plenty of homework before you start diggin into this too much.
You definitely want autoenginuity or find someone in your area willing to help you out. Sounds like you need to do a thorough inspection of the truck and slowly replace anything in question or that you might find to be bad.
Thanks, I will get the autoenginuity for sure. This is what I was looking for a list of possible problems to start weeding them out. I should have been more clear I have a few upgrades I want to do and the items I listed where part of it if needed.
The place that scanned it for you wasn't giving you good info.
You can run an Injector Buzz test with a dead cold engine, and it should give you codes if there are injector circuit problems. It will also pick up IDM codes (a completely dead bank could be an IDM problem, but your check engine light would be on.) But you can't run a valid Cylinder Contribution test till the engine is up to temp.
Like the others said, there's really no way that 4 injectors would be bad at the same time. Checking for chafing over the driver's side valve cover is a first step. If the common voltage feed to one bank shorts out, it'll kill that bank of cylinders.
Then get out an ohmmeter and run some tests at the valve cover gasket terminal after pulling the harness loose. The terminals are arranged to match the position of the cylinders. Like this:
G - G - I - I - C - I - I - G - G
Where G is the glow plug feed, I is individual injector return and C is the common injector feed to each bank.
You should get between 2 and 5 ohms with your meter probes on C and each I terminal, which would indicate good continuity thru the injectors. Between G and a good ground, you should get between 0.5 and 2 ohms which indicates a good glow plug. If you get infinite resistance on any test, it indicates either a loose Under Valve Cover Harness or bad GP or injector (not likely).
The place that scanned it for you wasn't giving you good info.
You can run an Injector Buzz test with a dead cold engine, and it should give you codes if there are injector circuit problems. It will also pick up IDM codes (a completely dead bank could be an IDM problem, but your check engine light would be on.) But you can't run a valid Cylinder Contribution test till the engine is up to temp.
Like the others said, there's really no way that 4 injectors would be bad at the same time. Checking for chafing over the driver's side valve cover is a first step. If the common voltage feed to one bank shorts out, it'll kill that bank of cylinders.
Then get out an ohmmeter and run some tests at the valve cover gasket terminal after pulling the harness loose. The terminals are arranged to match the position of the cylinders. Like this:
G - G - I - I - C - I - I - G - G
Where G is the glow plug feed, I is individual injector return and C is the common injector feed to each bank.
You should get between 2 and 5 ohms with your meter probes on C and each I terminal, which would indicate good continuity thru the injectors. Between G and a good ground, you should get between 0.5 and 2 ohms which indicates a good glow plug. If you get infinite resistance on any test, it indicates either a loose Under Valve Cover Harness or bad GP or injector (not likely).
Thanks for the help! I just read your GP thread also. I was unsure about the scan myself. I will run the tests you mentioned this week. I just realized it is an early 99 and in your opinion is it a good idea to up grade the ICM in the future or anything else you would do in the future?
There's no reason to change out the IDM unless it tests bad. With a PSD capable scan tool, a bad IDM will show up with the codes that are stored in it. The first code scan will show up a P1316 code which will mean that there are IDM codes, which you get it to cough up by running an Injector Buzz test.
The only significant difference on an early 99 is with the GP system in the form of a shunt on the output that lets the PCM monitor and compare the amp draw of the two banks of GP's while they're activated and throw a code if one bank isn't drawing as much current. It's kind of a poor man's Glow Plug Control Module so to speak. The GPCM arrived in the 2000 MY trucks and is used on all Excursions and trucks built for the California market.
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