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99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain Discussion of the 99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 1999-Up Super Duty trucks and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 7.3L Power Stroke engine.

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Old 02-02-2013, 04:32 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Injector Replacement

Getting prepared to make an injector swap next week. I'll be installing a set of stage 1 single shots from Full Force Diesel. Ordered them through DP-Tuner, and already sent my chip back for a reburn.

I'll also be testing my glow plugs and replacing all the bad ones, pretty sure I have several that are gone.

Are there any special tools I will need? Any good write-ups available? Any recommendation on replacement glow plugs & valve cover gaskets?

Thanks
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2000 F-250 Lariat PSD 4X4 Auto CC SB 326,000 miles, 4" Super-Lift/Fierce Attitude M/T LT31575R16's
Tymar intake, 4" turbo back MBRP exhaust, AIH delete, AC mod, ISSPRO gauges, PHP HYDRA, FFD Single Shot Stage 1's, FrX, Hutch/Harpoon Mods, Monsterbox Tranny, Tru-Cool Max

AE in Lafayette, La vicinity...
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Old 02-02-2013, 04:50 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Re: Injector Replacement

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Originally Posted by bmcnabb02 View Post
Getting prepared to make an injector swap next week. I'll be installing a set of stage 1 single shots from Full Force Diesel. Ordered them through DP-Tuner, and already sent my chip back for a reburn.

I'll also be testing my glow plugs and replacing all the bad ones, pretty sure I have several that are gone.

Are there any special tools I will need? Any good write-ups available? Any recommendation on replacement glow plugs & valve cover gaskets?

Thanks
I'm sure there are good write-ups, I don't have one immediately available in my phone. You need some socket ujoints, torque wrench, and injector cup tool.

I would just replace all of the glow plugs. If any are bad, others will follow soon. And I've read horror stories about glow plugs. Stick with Motorcraft/Beru brand plugs to be safe.

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2001 F350 7.3 4x4 CC SRW/ Aeroforce Interceptor/ BD Thruster II/ Bellowed Up-Pipes/ 4" turbo back straight exhaust / CCV Mod /DIY 6637/ TS chip reburned with PHP tunes (Stock, 40 Tow WITH Whsiper tune, 80 Daily Driver, 100 Race, 140 Extreme, 140 smoke show)//Recon smoked cab lights/MM Hubs/Hood/HPx/FRx/GPR switch-Indicator

First vehicle (still driving): 96 F250 XLT 2x4- All factory (injectors & turbo) except straight exhaust. 570k miles

Information .zip file
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Old 02-02-2013, 05:00 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Check with Full-Force. They probably have instructions they could send you.

Swamps has instructions on their website that you can download.

One special tool you'll need (even if you don't need to replace injector cups), is a short length of fuel hose to get the GP's out. You'll need a 10mm, 1/4 drive deep socket to start them, but if you turn them all the way loose, the socket will bind up on the rocker arm, so stop about halfway out, remove the socket, and press the fuel hose over the GP stud and use that to unthread it the rest of the way and pull it out of the hole.

I've never need a socket u-joint for the rear VC bolts, just a socket, short extension and a 1/4" drive ratchet. There are a couple of bolts on the bottom of the passenger side that are easier to access thru the wheel well with a box wrench.

You will need a torque wrench for the hold-down bolts. They take 120 inch-lb (or 10 ft-lb), so be sure you have one in that range. You don't want to guess on how tight the injectors are.
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Old 02-02-2013, 05:19 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Re: Injector Replacement

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Originally Posted by klhansen View Post
One special tool you'll need (even if you don't need to replace injector cups), is a short length of fuel hose to get the GP's out. You'll need a 10mm, 1/4 drive deep socket to start them, but if you turn them all the way loose, the socket will bind up on the rocker arm, so stop about halfway out, remove the socket, and press the fuel hose over the GP stud and use that to unthread it the rest of the way and pull it out of the hole.
That's odd, I watched a YouTube video of someone doing that. I was able to unscrew all 8 all the way out and pick them out with a magnet. I didn't use any ujoints either, but I also had more clearance in the back because my body lift, I see a lot if people saying to use that, or maybe referring to the flexible drive (like weed-eater drive shaft).

I was also able to remove the passenger VC without removing the A/C compressor. Its a bit of a pain getting it out of there with all the hoses and wire. Bungee cords may help to hold stuff out of the way. I did later have to move it to get my compression adaptor on. I probably could have made it go but didn't want to bend it. I think that one you got KL is the best way to go because its flexible.

Might want to spray some penetrating lube on the VC bolt that also has the oil dipstick tube mounted to it.



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2001 F350 7.3 4x4 CC SRW/ Aeroforce Interceptor/ BD Thruster II/ Bellowed Up-Pipes/ 4" turbo back straight exhaust / CCV Mod /DIY 6637/ TS chip reburned with PHP tunes (Stock, 40 Tow WITH Whsiper tune, 80 Daily Driver, 100 Race, 140 Extreme, 140 smoke show)//Recon smoked cab lights/MM Hubs/Hood/HPx/FRx/GPR switch-Indicator

First vehicle (still driving): 96 F250 XLT 2x4- All factory (injectors & turbo) except straight exhaust. 570k miles

Information .zip file

Last edited by rammertide07; 02-02-2013 at 05:22 PM.
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Old 02-03-2013, 01:54 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by rammertide07 View Post
Might want to spray some penetrating lube on the VC bolt that also has the oil dipstick tube mounted to it.
Good point. That bolt always seems to cause problems. I just helped a buddy with his injector replacement and we fought with that thing for a long time, even tried heating it up with a torch. Finally got it using an impact wrench. The vibration did the trick.
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Old 02-04-2013, 03:58 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Gonna order a full set of glow plugs from Tousley and change them all.

After searching I see several different options for the VC gaskets & UVC harness. Is any one better than the others? I plan to get my VC gaskets locally through International.

Found the procedure, doesn't seem too bad. The only thing it doesn't cover is injector cups. I don't plan to pull any injector cups unless I find a reason to, but is there anything I need to know about it?
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Tymar intake, 4" turbo back MBRP exhaust, AIH delete, AC mod, ISSPRO gauges, PHP HYDRA, FFD Single Shot Stage 1's, FrX, Hutch/Harpoon Mods, Monsterbox Tranny, Tru-Cool Max

AE in Lafayette, La vicinity...
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Old 02-04-2013, 05:02 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Correction... I'll NOT be buying any parts of from International because I just called 2 different dealers that were both higher than FORD! $97 & $101 for VC gaskets???

Where y'all finding these cheap International parts?
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Tymar intake, 4" turbo back MBRP exhaust, AIH delete, AC mod, ISSPRO gauges, PHP HYDRA, FFD Single Shot Stage 1's, FrX, Hutch/Harpoon Mods, Monsterbox Tranny, Tru-Cool Max

AE in Lafayette, La vicinity...
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Old 02-04-2013, 06:23 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Interesting that Int'l was higher than Ford. They're usually cheaper. I haven't bought VC gaskets, so can't say what the comparison between the local dealers might be.

If your VC gasket terminal pins are OK, the gaskets can be reused. I think I've had the VC's off my original engine about 5-6 times and still have the original gaskets in good shape. The ones on the current engine have 2 R&R's on them and aren't leaking or causing any other problems.

Did you check Tousley for price on VC gaskets? You might also check on RockAuto. They have UVCHs for $20 each. Maybe gaskets are equally cheaper there.

On injector cups, you can pressurize the coolant system after you have the injector out to check for leaks. If they aren't leaking or visibly damaged, leave them alone.
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99.5 F250 PSD Supercab LB 4x4, ZF-6 w/SB Con OFE, 3.73LS, Boost & pyro gauges, Swamps S175/146 injectors, DP 80 HP Econo PCM (classic version), AIS, coolant filter w/"hokum" bracket, regulated return, heated mirror mod, lighted cupholder, Marinco heater plug-in.

Hard or no-start? Check Here
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Old 02-04-2013, 06:31 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Re: Injector Replacement

Quote:
Originally Posted by bmcnabb02 View Post
Correction... I'll NOT be buying any parts of from International because I just called 2 different dealers that were both higher than FORD! $97 & $101 for VC gaskets???

Where y'all finding these cheap International parts?
Didn't recognize the user name. Guess that suggestion didn't help. Rockauto.com is also another place I get parts. Guess it also depends on how soon you need them. Are you changing the glow plugs while you're in there?

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2001 F350 7.3 4x4 CC SRW/ Aeroforce Interceptor/ BD Thruster II/ Bellowed Up-Pipes/ 4" turbo back straight exhaust / CCV Mod /DIY 6637/ TS chip reburned with PHP tunes (Stock, 40 Tow WITH Whsiper tune, 80 Daily Driver, 100 Race, 140 Extreme, 140 smoke show)//Recon smoked cab lights/MM Hubs/Hood/HPx/FRx/GPR switch-Indicator

First vehicle (still driving): 96 F250 XLT 2x4- All factory (injectors & turbo) except straight exhaust. 570k miles

Information .zip file
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Old 02-05-2013, 07:14 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Didn't recognize the user name. Guess that suggestion didn't help. Rockauto.com is also another place I get parts. Guess it also depends on how soon you need them. Are you changing the glow plugs while you're in there?

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I will be changing the glowplugs, all of them..

Quote:
Originally Posted by klhansen View Post
If your VC gasket terminal pins are OK, the gaskets can be reused. I think I've had the VC's off my original engine about 5-6 times and still have the original gaskets in good shape. The ones on the current engine have 2 R&R's on them and aren't leaking or causing any other problems.

Did you check Tousley for price on VC gaskets? You might also check on RockAuto. They have UVCHs for $20 each. Maybe gaskets are equally cheaper there.
I have an interment loss of power, and I suspect it's wiring, UVCH, or VC gasket terminals. While I have the VC's off I just planned to replace all that crap.

Tousley VC gaskets are $62.70, I'll prolly just order from them when I put the purchase on the glow plugs.
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Tymar intake, 4" turbo back MBRP exhaust, AIH delete, AC mod, ISSPRO gauges, PHP HYDRA, FFD Single Shot Stage 1's, FrX, Hutch/Harpoon Mods, Monsterbox Tranny, Tru-Cool Max

AE in Lafayette, La vicinity...
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Old 03-21-2013, 09:08 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Injector Replacement

Update... Finally got everything back together. Stage 1 Single Shots from Full Force Diesel with updated tunes from Jody Tipton, new GP's, new wiring harnesses, new VC gaskets, hutch/harpoon mods with pre-pump filter, and installed a RiffRaff FRX regulated return with the black spring (67-70 psi). Also installed a new ICP sensor because oil was found in the connection of the old one.

I've put 80 something miles on it driving it around under various conditions and it still has a terrible lope/stall at idle. Runs great, lots of power, but sounds horrible at idle. Rpms will drop down to 500 and it will almost stall, sometimes does stall in gear, then it will race to 1000-1100 rpms.

Something else I've noticed is that my pedal seems to have more travel in it before acceleration takes place from idle position, and it's not a smooth transition. It jumps straight to 1500 rpms. A few months back I had some issues with my pedal being non responsive, but they went away. I'm wondering if I'm not having some lingering TPS issues that have been irritated from the truck being parked for 6 months.

I know, I did a lot of mods at one time making it harder to pinpoint issues. I just don't have much time to wrench on it anymore and had to knock out as much as I could while it was down.

On edit... I did pull codes after the first 30 miles and only had an 0603 from the bat-trees being disconnected.


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2000 F-250 Lariat PSD 4X4 Auto CC SB 326,000 miles, 4" Super-Lift/Fierce Attitude M/T LT31575R16's
Tymar intake, 4" turbo back MBRP exhaust, AIH delete, AC mod, ISSPRO gauges, PHP HYDRA, FFD Single Shot Stage 1's, FrX, Hutch/Harpoon Mods, Monsterbox Tranny, Tru-Cool Max

AE in Lafayette, La vicinity...

Last edited by bmcnabb02; 03-21-2013 at 09:35 AM.
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Old 03-21-2013, 11:56 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmcnabb02 View Post
Update... Finally got everything back together. Stage 1 Single Shots from Full Force Diesel with updated tunes from Jody Tipton, new GP's, new wiring harnesses, new VC gaskets, hutch/harpoon mods with pre-pump filter, and installed a RiffRaff FRX regulated return with the black spring (67-70 psi). Also installed a new ICP sensor because oil was found in the connection of the old one.

I've put 80 something miles on it driving it around under various conditions and it still has a terrible lope/stall at idle. Runs great, lots of power, but sounds horrible at idle. Rpms will drop down to 500 and it will almost stall, sometimes does stall in gear, then it will race to 1000-1100 rpms.

Something else I've noticed is that my pedal seems to have more travel in it before acceleration takes place from idle position, and it's not a smooth transition. It jumps straight to 1500 rpms. A few months back I had some issues with my pedal being non responsive, but they went away. I'm wondering if I'm not having some lingering TPS issues that have been irritated from the truck being parked for 6 months.

I know, I did a lot of mods at one time making it harder to pinpoint issues. I just don't have much time to wrench on it anymore and had to knock out as much as I could while it was down.

On edit... I did pull codes after the first 30 miles and only had an 0603 from the bat-trees being disconnected.


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Try running "stock" of you can. I've read several people that have tried DP and other tuners complain about how touchy the throttle is.

Could be the TPS, I might also suspect the IPR. Do what you can but a scanner would be very useful. Check fuel pressure too.
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2001 F350 7.3 4x4 CC SRW/ Aeroforce Interceptor/ BD Thruster II/ Bellowed Up-Pipes/ 4" turbo back straight exhaust / CCV Mod /DIY 6637/ TS chip reburned with PHP tunes (Stock, 40 Tow WITH Whsiper tune, 80 Daily Driver, 100 Race, 140 Extreme, 140 smoke show)//Recon smoked cab lights/MM Hubs/Hood/HPx/FRx/GPR switch-Indicator

First vehicle (still driving): 96 F250 XLT 2x4- All factory (injectors & turbo) except straight exhaust. 570k miles

Information .zip file
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Old 03-21-2013, 12:36 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Injector Replacement

I have ran it in the stock chip setting, which is actually modified stock tune for the single shots. Pulling the chip for a true stock setting, it wouldn't be programmed correctly for the single shot injectors.

I've been running the DP tunes for about 8 years now and never had a problem with a touchy pedal before.

Looks like AE may be on order soon....


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2000 F-250 Lariat PSD 4X4 Auto CC SB 326,000 miles, 4" Super-Lift/Fierce Attitude M/T LT31575R16's
Tymar intake, 4" turbo back MBRP exhaust, AIH delete, AC mod, ISSPRO gauges, PHP HYDRA, FFD Single Shot Stage 1's, FrX, Hutch/Harpoon Mods, Monsterbox Tranny, Tru-Cool Max

AE in Lafayette, La vicinity...
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Old 03-21-2013, 03:13 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Something else I've noticed is that my pedal seems to have more travel in it before acceleration takes place from idle position, and it's not a smooth transition.
I had similar issues with DP Tunes, except my throttle increased too soon for my tastes.
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Old 03-21-2013, 04:26 PM   #15 (permalink)
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmcnabb02 View Post
Update... Finally got everything back together. Stage 1 Single Shots from Full Force Diesel with updated tunes from Jody Tipton, new GP's, new wiring harnesses, new VC gaskets, hutch/harpoon mods with pre-pump filter, and installed a RiffRaff FRX regulated return with the black spring (67-70 psi). Also installed a new ICP sensor because oil was found in the connection of the old one.

I've put 80 something miles on it driving it around under various conditions and it still has a terrible lope/stall at idle. Runs great, lots of power, but sounds horrible at idle. Rpms will drop down to 500 and it will almost stall, sometimes does stall in gear, then it will race to 1000-1100 rpms.

Something else I've noticed is that my pedal seems to have more travel in it before acceleration takes place from idle position, and it's not a smooth transition. It jumps straight to 1500 rpms. A few months back I had some issues with my pedal being non responsive, but they went away. I'm wondering if I'm not having some lingering TPS issues that have been irritated from the truck being parked for 6 months.

I know, I did a lot of mods at one time making it harder to pinpoint issues. I just don't have much time to wrench on it anymore and had to knock out as much as I could while it was down.

On edit... I did pull codes after the first 30 miles and only had an 0603 from the bat-trees being disconnected.


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Have you tried contacting Jody to see what he says? If not, shoot him an e-mail at jody@dp-tuner.com. He would be your best bet for getting help on this issue since he writes the tunes and has a lot of experience doing so.

Let me know if you have any questions.
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