99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke Engine and DrivetrainDiscussion of the 99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 1999-Up Super Duty trucks and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 7.3L Power Stroke engine.
I was not looking forward to this job--replacing the UVCH. I did a lot of reading and began this morning. I refused to move the truck at all since last night--I didn't want to work on a hot engine.
I honestly don't see what all the pain is about. What I thought was going to be the hardest parts were some of the easiest.
In essence, all you are doing is removing 7 bolts, 3 studs, one nut, two screws and 4 hose clamps.
You will need either a 13mm swivel socket or a 13mm socket with a u-joint. Some say use a wobble extention, I just don't have any to use. Downside to the swivel socket/u-joint is that there isn't a lot of resistance in the u-joint, so it wants to move around a lot and can make it tougher to put on the bolt than a regular socket.
The often maligned 'rear bolt' was a joke. I am able to stand flat footed next to my truck and put my fingers on it, so putting a socket and ratchet on it isn't an issue. I didn't even use an extention, just a deep socket.
Some go through the fenderwell to get the bolts at the base of the valve cover, I didn't see the need, but that is where the swivel socket comes in.
Then, some say remove the oil filler neck. I skipped that--it is plastic and the valve cover is very thin, so guess what--if something is going to break, I think it would be that . . .no thanks.
Removing the a/c compressor and flipping it upside down. Didn't need to flip it, but I did move it forward an inch and the valve cover came out easier. I think removing the filler neck may negate the need to move the compressor.
Replaced the wiring harness. The reassembly was actually easier than taking everything apart. For the uninitiated--just put all the bolts/studs into the head finger tight. Too many times I see people tightening as they go and that is a recipe for disaster.
It took me about 3 hours from start to finish on the job. The actual hardest parts were making sure the glow plug connectors were on. it is tough to see them and the wiring harness is used to being folded up a certain way in a box, so the wires were fighting me the whole time. You also can't get needle nose in there and there isn't a 'pop' when you get the connector on, only way to really check is if the connector wobbles, if it does, you didn't do it right.
Not necessarily interested in doing the job again, but I got rid of a lot of aprehension with regards to the job.
Great job. I found the rear bolts were hard only due to large hands and I am a little further in age than before. Making elbows bend and wrists twist like that was difficult but not impossible. Well worth saving the bucks and doing it myself. I found twisting off the filler neck made it easier to slide the cover around and take off without touching the AC. Other than that I did it the same as you did.
Many fear what they do not know. I only fear what I do know. That an a lot of spiders
1986 Suzuki Samurai with VW 1.6TD 30 MPG on 30 inch tires
Early 1986 (1985) F250 Supercab stock 6.9 bought with 70,000 miles in 2008. Stock skinny wheels and stock 3:55 limited slip axles. Rebuilt trans with E40D first and second gears. SOLD
1999 F350 Dually 6spd manual trans. Banks exhaust, Modded impellor and Big Head Waste gate, DP TUNER flashed PCM, Full Force Diesel Single Staged Injectors. EBPV mod for exhaust brakes. Hutch Mod to gas tank. SOLD/TRADED
2001 Excursion Limited Auto trans many buttons I still am finding. Factory 3 inch lift low mileage. 100% stock today we will see what tomorrow brings.
When I removed mine, I didn't remove the compressor either.
One thing I did to, I matched a bolt to the threads on the valve cover bolts, then I took that dept, and added about 0.75", and got some continuously threaded set screws and nuts. I put those in the more difficult places to reach, so now it's studs instead of bolts. This makes alignment of the cover and bolt holes a lot easier than before.
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