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Manifold to up-pipe bolts

29K views 19 replies 13 participants last post by  powerstrokel 
#1 ·
Anyone have any tricks for removing REALLY rusty bolts that hold the manifold to the up-pipe on an early '99.

I am stuck! I can't for the life of me get them out. Might be heading to indy mondya to let hime do it. It may be torch time.
 
#2 ·
Try a 50/50 mix of acetone and atf. I heard others say it worked great but have not tried it myself. Of course, be careful with the acetone.
 
#3 ·
PB Blaster and 24 hours. Just soak the area really well and then wait.
 
#5 ·
Just tighten them till they snap. You'll want to replace them anyway.
 
#6 ·
Unfortunatly there is not much left to grab onto, and the bolt, whats let is seriously the size of a toothpick!!! I cut one bolt in half thinking i could drive it out but is would not budge. Not to mention there is not a lot of room to swing a hammer or get at the flange area.

PB Blaster is on! I may give it another try in the morning. I spoke to my diesel mechanic whoe hates me cause I do most of my work myself, I just don't have a torch set or lift, so I am working on this thing on my back.

Thanks for the input
 
#8 ·
Unfortunatly there is not much left to grab onto, and the bolt, whats let is seriously the size of a toothpick!!! I cut one bolt in half thinking i could drive it out but is would not budge. Not to mention there is not a lot of room to swing a hammer or get at the flange area.

PB Blaster is on! I may give it another try in the morning. I spoke to my diesel mechanic whoe hates me cause I do most of my work myself, I just don't have a torch set or lift, so I am working on this thing on my back.

Thanks for the input
So it sounds like they've swelled up inside the holes. If that's the case PB and hammer is the only option. If they had some room to turn they'd be easy to snap, given the toothpick size.

Or maybe you could drill them out. :SM145:
 
#7 ·
everytime you spray the pb blaster, tap the area you want it to seep inot, helps it move along
 
#11 ·
trying to attach a photo but for some reson I cannot, perhaps I don't have enough post
 

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#13 · (Edited)
ya, I had same issue when doing my bellowed install.
My bolts/nuts looked just like that, really nothing left to get a socket/wrench on.

I ended up cutting the driver side...which was easy.
Pass side was another story.. yes, very tight quarters especially when it snaps off and leaves stud rusted into manifold. Pb blaster alone wasn't enough for my rusted POS.
Left it soak overnight, with no luck.
Pulled inner fender/wheel well.
Took a full eve, case of beer, lots of PB blaster (which I think was just for good luck and had no impact on this rusted one) and finally a specially built 2ft punch I fabbed did the trick. Not my idea of a good time.
 
#14 ·
This makes me really not want to do mine and my manifolds. lol
 
#15 ·
I used PB on mine......then I broke out the blue-tipped wrench and torched them off.

You dont need them anyway.
 
#16 ·
don't need what? The bolts?
 
#17 · (Edited)
correct.
You get (or should buy if not included) all new bolts/nuts with new uppies.
No sense in trying to reuse even 2 year old slightly rusted bolts that are a couple bucks.
 
#18 ·
sorry, I thought oyu where saying the bolts wher not necessary all together! I have ne bolts and nuts for the project, and the up pipes are fine, I do not want to replace them at this time, I bought the truck a year ago with 69K on it. It just sat ( and rusted) for a long time.
 
#20 ·
I just fixed my manifolds and had a similar issue with up pipe bolts. Heat is your friend here. Also I agree with 7.3chris above^^^^ I have removed manifold bolts in a ford 5.4 with candle wax before sounds silly but work. If not you might just have to pull the manifold to get a more square swing on the bolt. Or a center punch and a drill bit.
 
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