Unfortunatly there is not much left to grab onto, and the bolt, whats let is seriously the size of a toothpick!!! I cut one bolt in half thinking i could drive it out but is would not budge. Not to mention there is not a lot of room to swing a hammer or get at the flange area.
PB Blaster is on! I may give it another try in the morning. I spoke to my diesel mechanic whoe hates me cause I do most of my work myself, I just don't have a torch set or lift, so I am working on this thing on my back.
Unfortunatly there is not much left to grab onto, and the bolt, whats let is seriously the size of a toothpick!!! I cut one bolt in half thinking i could drive it out but is would not budge. Not to mention there is not a lot of room to swing a hammer or get at the flange area.
PB Blaster is on! I may give it another try in the morning. I spoke to my diesel mechanic whoe hates me cause I do most of my work myself, I just don't have a torch set or lift, so I am working on this thing on my back.
So it sounds like they've swelled up inside the holes. If that's the case PB and hammer is the only option. If they had some room to turn they'd be easy to snap, given the toothpick size.
Sawzall the bolts off? Cutoff wheel? May have to drop the manifolds off and heat the part where the up pipe bolt goes through to drive it out. :lol: I remember having to do that myself!!!
ya, I had same issue when doing my bellowed install.
My bolts/nuts looked just like that, really nothing left to get a socket/wrench on.
I ended up cutting the driver side...which was easy.
Pass side was another story.. yes, very tight quarters especially when it snaps off and leaves stud rusted into manifold. Pb blaster alone wasn't enough for my rusted POS.
Left it soak overnight, with no luck.
Pulled inner fender/wheel well.
Took a full eve, case of beer, lots of PB blaster (which I think was just for good luck and had no impact on this rusted one) and finally a specially built 2ft punch I fabbed did the trick. Not my idea of a good time.
correct.
You get (or should buy if not included) all new bolts/nuts with new uppies.
No sense in trying to reuse even 2 year old slightly rusted bolts that are a couple bucks.
sorry, I thought oyu where saying the bolts wher not necessary all together! I have ne bolts and nuts for the project, and the up pipes are fine, I do not want to replace them at this time, I bought the truck a year ago with 69K on it. It just sat ( and rusted) for a long time.
Heat the area up with a torch and use wax from a candle. Just dab the candle wax on the hot spot and it will suck right down in the threads. I just done this on my truck after 2 days of pb blaster did absoloutley nothing.
I just fixed my manifolds and had a similar issue with up pipe bolts. Heat is your friend here. Also I agree with 7.3chris above^^^^ I have removed manifold bolts in a ford 5.4 with candle wax before sounds silly but work. If not you might just have to pull the manifold to get a more square swing on the bolt. Or a center punch and a drill bit.
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Related Threads
?
?
?
?
?
The Diesel Stop
2.6M posts
210.8K members
Since 1999
A forum community dedicated to all Ford Diesel owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about PowerStrokes, performance, modifications, troubleshooting, towing capacity, maintenance, and more!