might be buying a truck, have some questions - Diesel Forum

stangkid14 · 11-01-2009, 08:00 PM

Looking at a 2000 xlt 6speed with 151k miles, in the past 8 months it had new water pump, glow plugs. I has a few issues i would like someone to help figure out

1. When trying to start the truck with the key the truck just makes a click, to turn the truck on the guy had to bridge the two terminals on the starter relay in the engine compartment. He put one new battery in, but the other looks a few years old. I would def get a new battery, but i dont think thats the problem

2. he said that the truck has to idle for about 10 minutes every morning before he drives it or it will have no power and/or run really choppy.

3. the clutch pedal sticks out really far past the brake and throttle pedel, i think the guy might have disconnected the clutch switch so he could start it without using the pedal, but would that cause the pedal to stick out really far??

let me know your thoughts

victorng · 11-01-2009, 09:33 PM

First place I'd start is a new starter relay. Jumping the relay tells us it's not the starter or electrical from the relay to the starter. Next, get two good 850 CCA or better batteries. good batteries can cover a multitude of sins.
While you're getting a new starter relay, you might as well get a glow plug relay as well. Both are cheap and you can do the work yourself. Where is the truck at and how cold is it when he lets it warm up for 10 minutes?
I don't know about the clutch. Your reasoning sounds plausible but I would imagine that they are hydraulic clutches and not adjustable like the old cable ones. When I wanted to start without the clutch (on other vehicles) I just removed the switch. As long as you don't have to double clutch and it's not leaking and does what it's supposed to do, I don't know if I would worry about the pedal sticking up higher.
Just my thoughts...

stangkid14 · 11-02-2009, 01:13 AM

thanks, i also failed to mention that he did replace the starter relay...thats why im baffled

also this is south jersey, temps in the morning right now are about 40-50. the truck was sitting for about 6 months before about a month ago.. he said the oil was changed before it sat, but i dont know

stangkid14 · 11-02-2009, 04:48 PM

bump...help please???!

short_stuff · 11-02-2009, 05:54 PM

For question #2, the poor performance when it is first started up could be a partially stuck EPB Valve. It is designed to stay closed for the first few minutes to allow your cab to warm up quicker. If it is staying closed, you won't have much power at all when you first start out, until it has warmed up. This valve can get carbon around it, causing it to stay closed, partially closed, or fully open. There is a procedure you can use to clean the valve. Do a search on this forum for exhaust pressure bypass valve cleaning procedures.
For the starting problem, you could have a problem with the key cylinder wiring. This is not an uncommon problem (wire chafing) on the automatics, but I can't recall if I've heard of the problem on 6 speeds. I would also take a good look at the battery cables. The cables may look ok on the ends, but you need to peel the plastic coating back a little to see if they are starting to rot internally. Check both the ends at the batteries, and the opposite ends.

short_stuff

stangkid14 · 11-02-2009, 06:51 PM

thanks for the advise, anyone else have some opinions?

stangkid14 · 11-03-2009, 03:51 PM

138 views and only two people have an idea?????

jakebeefsteak · 11-03-2009, 07:07 PM

Hey, take it easy. You have gotten a lot of good free advise. Normally would be posting back with what you have done to fix your problem using advise given, not “that’s all you got”. If you are mechanically inclined and have some more money to put into the truck after purchase price, this could be a great investment. You haven’t mentioned what they are asking for it.

freestroker · 11-03-2009, 07:59 PM

Victor and Short Stuff have pretty much covered the likely culprits to your concerns. I wouldn't have posted except that you don't seem satisfied with their responses.

Jake has summed it up. If the price is right, you have relatively modest mechanical ability, and the extra cash for to repair the issues. Get the truck.

I have a y2k myself. It was a vintage year for the 7.3.

Good luck
Peter

stangkid14 · 11-03-2009, 08:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jakebeefsteak

Hey, take it easy. You have gotten a lot of good free advise. Normally would be posting back with what you have done to fix your problem using advise given, not “that’s all you got”. If you are mechanically inclined and have some more money to put into the truck after purchase price, this could be a great investment. You haven’t mentioned what they are asking for it.

Why would I post back about what i have done to fix the problem, when I am here saying I am looking to buy the truck, and asking peoples opinions of what the culprit of the problems might be. I am pretty mechanically inclined, meaning I could probably tear the truck down to every nut and bolt and reassemble, but i am not very good at diagnosing diesels yet.

The guy is asking 9k, it has dings and dents, but no rust, interior is clean. The only thing thats keeping me from buying are these problems... I think I am going to offer him 7500, and try and drive away with it for 8

Quote:

Originally Posted by freestroker

Victor and Short Stuff have pretty much covered the likely culprits to your concerns. I wouldn't have posted except that you don't seem satisfied with their responses.

Jake has summed it up. If the price is right, you have relatively modest mechanical ability, and the extra cash for to repair the issues. Get the truck.

I have a y2k myself. It was a vintage year for the 7.3.

Good luck
Peter

Yea I hear ya, its just nice to hear other people backing up peoples opinons. When just one or two people post it sounds like nobody has a clue of whats wrong.

tomjon · 11-04-2009, 01:16 AM

I'm not sure about this , but glow plugs at 151K , does that sound normal guys ???
THEN ....
it still runs $hitee when cold , my first thought was GPR. I didn't think about the EBP valve , thats possible. Some guys just use leverage to cycle them by force , which breaks up the crud ...problem solved.
I got tired of changing NAPA GPR's and swapped to a (iirc) White/Rodgers unit. Hefty piece ....still going after three years (Napa was less than 1 yr ea).
Otherwise , when cold and failed GPR , that is how these truck will run. I don't think 50 is cold but if your GPR is bad , it may give trouble. The GPR can stay on up to 2 minutes , which helps them run better right off the bat.
When all is well , my starting doesn't get delayed until it is cold , as in single digits and below. Turn key half way , wait for light to go out , count to five slowly(only when cold) , start.

Starting .. Improperly wired solenoid possibly ? Easy fix. Otherwise , start troubleshooting , I don't think that system should be too hard to chase out and isolate.
Also , just because a part is NEW does not mean it is GOOD. This has been happening more and more lately.

Always replace the batteries in pairs. My preferred brand is DEKA , currently.

I'd do an oil change right off the bat also. I'd bet this guy just uses standard 10w-30.

That price might be kinda high also , IDK , research.....