Need clutch install insight

[TIMLUTZ]

Going to install a clutch kit in my 99 4x4 myself and was wondering if anyone has any tips or insight on the job. Don’t have access to a lift so I’m thinking 4 – 8” blocks should get it up high enough. My main concern is the bell housing bolts. Can they be reached from under the truck and how far do you have to drop the tail end of the motor to get to them? I’ve done at least a dozen clutch jobs but none with a monster 7.3
Any input would be great.

[BTBBT]

When I did mine, you have to remove the transfer case, and the crossmember, this will allow you to tilt down the back of the engine. Which you will have to do to get to them. Just be warned that once you remove the trans the front of the engine will become the heavier side so be sure to get something under the front to support it. I've done clutches too, and this job is just bigger than, but not really any harder than the rest.

Also suggested, and I kinda wish I had done it, is to replace the up-pipes while the trans is out. I didn't have the money to do it, but man do I wish I had now.

[diesel_doctor]

Get a 30 inch extension and a flex joint. Tape around the flex joint to stiffen it up a little and you can bet the bolts fine.
I don't remove the transfercase but I do have a trans jack and strap it down so it can't tip off.

[klhansen]

Originally Posted by diesel_doctor

Get a 30 inch extension and a flex joint. Tape around the flex joint to stiffen it up a little and you can bet the bolts fine.
I don't remove the transfercase but I do have a trans jack and strap it down so it can't tip off.

X2

When we did my clutch, we left the truck sitting on the wheels. A buddy jacked up the rear to give a bit more room, but not absolutely necessary, IMO.

Plan on at least replacing up-pipe donuts and bolts when you're there as well. You'll thank yourself for doing that. SO MUCH EASIER ACCESS!!!

[TIMLUTZ]

Originally Posted by klhansen

X2

Plan on at least replacing up-pipe donuts and bolts when you're there as well. You'll thank yourself for doing that. SO MUCH EASIER ACCESS!!!

Is the up pipe the same as the down pipe? (connects to the turbo) I guess it's the up pipe when your working under the truck and the down pipe when your working under the hood.

Thanks for all the input. Keep it coming.

[klhansen]

Originally Posted by TIMLUTZ

Is the up pipe the same as the down pipe? (connects to the turbo) I guess it's the up pipe when your working under the truck and the down pipe when your working under the hood.

Thanks for all the input. Keep it coming.

The up-pipes go from the exhaust manifold on each side to the wye collector inlet to the turbocharger. The downpipe is the exit of the turbo to the exhaust pipe and tailpipe.

Since the turbo and exhaust manifolds are bolted to the engine, there has to be something to allow for expansion/contraction as the exhaust gets up to 600-900F during normal operation. That's the function of the donuts at the collector. They're like slip joints and eventually wear out, causing exhaust leaks. You can either replace the donuts (and up-pipes if they get hourglass shaped where the donuts ride on them) or go with International's bellowed up-pipe setup. The bellows in that arrangement allow for the expansion/contraction with a completely sealed joint as opposed to the sliding joint between the donuts and up-pipes in the stock setup.

[Stinson]

I rented a large transmission jack and removed everything together. Trans/Tcase/crossmember as one unit. Bolts were all very easy to get to compared to my toyota pickup. Hardest part was stabbing it back in.

[klhansen]

Originally Posted by Stinson

Hardest part was stabbing it back in.

Agreed. I think there were 4 of us messing with mine getting it stabbed. We just had it strapped on the tranny jack, but if I had it to do again, I think I'd fab up a rigid bracket bolted to the tranny jack and the threaded holes on the bottom of the tranny. I had some headless bolts to use as pilots, but neer got them out of the toolbox for some reason. I'd recommend those as well.

[diesel_doctor]

My trans had a little vertical casting that kept getting in the way, it hits the firewall lip. Rolling the lip or trimming the casting would help. That and make sure you the clutch aligned the best you can.

[colotow]

I did mine last year, it's not bad, but the 6 spd is a big, HEAVY bugger, make absolutely sure you have a good quality tranny jack, and do it on a flat hard surface.

X2 on doing the uppipes while it's out!

Probably the worst part is aligning the tranny to the bell housing on the way back in, I had a set of harbor freight magnetic angle gauges, used them to get it close, then used a couple bolts with the heads cut off (slot them for a flat tip to take them back out!!) and it slid in pretty good.
Also, make sure the tranny is in one of the higher gears before you slide it in, then you can turn the output shaft to line it up with the clutch splines

[TIMLUTZ]

Thanks for all the great info. Klhansen, The guide stude are a great help. I allways make up a set when I install a translission. Anyone have a part number for the up pipe doughnuts? I'm sure they will be needed after 320,000 miles.
Thanks

[klhansen]

Here's some part # info for you

Donut Gaskets
Ford F4TZ-6K854-C
Int'l 1816103C1
Felpro #8194
GM donuts F17250 per JimT Jr
Bolts - Ford W301160
-------Int'l 1844517C1(BOLT,M8X30 HEX FL HD) (Was 1844044C1)
BOLT-EXH FLGE M8X60MM (manifold-to-up-pipe bolts)
Ford W300013
Int'l 1821640C1

Bellowed Up-Pipe kit for 99.5 & up
1837872C93 This was available for around $300 originally, but the price has gone up significantly with the increased demand.

Definitely replace the nuts & bolts.

Be careful using the GM part #, they are thicker and possibly harder. A friend tried them and cracked the inlet wye at a bolt hole. He wound up going with the bellowed kit.
Check with Powerstrokeshop.com I believe they have a kit, including up-pipes if you need them.

[TIMLUTZ]

Thanks Klhansen. You know your stuff. Did you by any chance see my other post requesting a link or file for the 271/273 transfer case repair manual? While I got it out i'm going to replace the mode synchro assy, slider and fork. My t case will not stay in 4wd due to a past problem with the rubber bushing that supports the shift linkage on the 271. The rubber bushing was rusted to the linkage shaft in the 4wh position when I got the truck so it did't
want to stay in 2wh. It was allways trying to slip back into 4wh while I was driving and with the hubs un locked it groung the teeth off the mode slider and the plastic off the fork.

[klhansen]

Don't have easy access to a t-case repair manual. You could try All-Data.

I just noticed you have an early 99, so the bellowed up-pipe kit I posted won't fit your truck. Not sure Int'l has one for the early trucks. Up-pipes for your truck are different than the 99.5 and later, because of the turbo position.

[TIMLUTZ]

I just thought I would add a little something I have learned over the years that will help a lot when stabbing the trans.

You know that not so precision little plastic alignment tool they give you in the kit. Don’t just hang the disc on it and shove it in the pilot bushing and bolt down the pressure plate. The weight of the disc and the slop of this cheap plastic part in the pilot bushing will give you just enough misalignment and make stabbing the trans a b$#@! As you tighten the PP bolts move the alignment tool from side to side and up and down and try to get an average of where center is. If I were doing an old rock crusher in a 69 Z28. I would use a old broken input shaft I kept just for this purpose. Doing this and using alignment studs makes all the difference in the world.

The clutch job is planned for next weekend. I’ll let you all know how it goes.
Thanks