Need a new clutch, thinking about a paddle type - Diesel Forum

diesel_doctor · 07-02-2008, 11:02 AM

My clutch gave up coming across the WV turnpike. The water injection kept the EGT down and the chip gave me the power to pull a my fiver up a 6% grade at 68 MPH for 7 miles. I wasn't wide open either....

My clutch however didn't hold after a few hours started to slip, now it slips pretty easy.

I fell over when I saw the price for a clutch for my truck. I knew a pulling clutch was high but darn, I can put a clutch in a big truck cheaper.

I'm thinking about this clutch and reuseing my flywheel after grinding.
6 Speed HD Conversion Disk w/ceramic

I'm looking for opinions and vendors to deal with.

glockman · 07-02-2008, 01:28 PM

you can't go WRONG with a south bend I have the con ofe and love it! call peter at sbc he will get you going good luck.

diesel_doctor · 07-03-2008, 07:46 PM

What a sorry place this has become, back before all the ads and rules you could get a lot of people who had tried most everything.

Thanks for the reply, Not sure where everyone else has gone. Sad, this used to be such a great place.

allbackfull · 07-04-2008, 10:43 AM

You asked for opinions, so here I go. I just had a LUK installed on mine because I went to more power and the stock unit started slipping. The good changes I noticed were the clutch pedal effort is much lighter. The changes I don't like is the clutch engage point is closer to the floorboard than before. When starting the engine, I can feel the truck creep foward if the transmission is in gear before the engine starts. I had to adjust my drivers seat position to deal with the issue. Also, with my 5th wheel mounted and backing up, the truck is so jerky it becomes un-drivable. Hope this goes away with age.

Please let us know if there are any issues the your south bend when installed.

Steve91T · 07-04-2008, 07:29 PM

My original clutch started to slip only after I had fuel filter lid issues and dumped gallons of fuel several times onto the clutch. I had it replaced with a stock unit and it's great. The only thing is that it hops when I'm slipping it at low RPM and load. I think that has more to do with the worm out input shaft than anything. It's a great clutch and I feel that it'll last a very long time.

Steve

diesel_doctor · 07-04-2008, 08:07 PM

Thanks guys, yes I want opinions and what others have tried.

I replaced my clutch at 15,000 miles due to rough engaugement issue under warranty. The clutch has been great until this last trip. 108,000 miles on the truck now.
The clutch is still great unless you have the RV and hit a big hill. Then it lets go.

The chip and water injection combo was too much for it I feel. I looked under the turbo and the drain hole that leads behind the flywheel is dry. Unless it's the rear main I don't think it's a leakage issue.

I don't need a 1000 dollar clutch, just more than stock. I've used LUK upgrades on some older powerstrokes, they worked great.

What I don't want is a grabby truck jerking agressive clutch. My clutch now has a great friction point. I can feather it easy and smooth, I want that just with more grip.

I don't need or want an easier pedal, I'd like a harder one. I know I can remove that assist spring.

Keep it coming guys, more info is always better.

Kanman · 07-05-2008, 01:58 AM

South Bend all the way...

I think the 350HP version runs around $600 and the 450 and 550 HP clutches are $900 to $1000. Personally I would spend the money on the 450Hp clutch, it's good stuff!

glockman · 07-07-2008, 12:06 PM

I thought we were tryin to help this guy but it seems he does not know what he wants this is a powerstroke diesel man not a small block chevy its goin to grab and jerk some! good luck

diesel_doctor · 07-07-2008, 07:39 PM

I had hoped someone had used the clutch I was thinking about trying or how a LUK or Southbend had worked out.

General ideas are fine, I don't need anyone telling me I don't know what I want or some pick smarting off. I've read the vendors claims, I've install several dozen puck type clutches in bigger trucks.

What I NEED is some first hand knowledge of the product and the vendors to call.

R

BTBBT · 07-07-2008, 07:59 PM

I just put a SouthBend dual disk pulling clutch in my truck. When I called and talked with Peter I asked him about what I think you are talking about when you say a puck type clutch. His response was that the non-puck more like the stock setup has more holding power. That is what you want right? more holding power? For the most holding power and the ablility to slip it without worried too much, the dual disk is best. But the price is not cheap. I paid over $1000 for my clutch and Peter gave me a deal I couldn't resist.

I had the SB 1939 DF and it was a great clutch. Plenty of holding power and never missed a beat. Till I wore it out with a bad pilot bearing.

Now I have a SB Dual disk clutch with the same 1939 pressure plate system. Other than the low-to-the-floor engagement and hard shifting I love it.

You can ask around here and get every answer under the sun. If you call Peter at Southbend he will set you up right. Just be sure to have either a VERY reputable shop do the work or do it yourself.

glockman · 07-08-2008, 02:10 PM

well heck everyone was chiming in and telling you what they had and what they recomended if someone had tried the one you were looking at they would have told you as far as first hand knowledge goes you have to buy it and try it then you will have your first hand knowledge if you have installed several puck type clutches then you already have first hand knowledge as far as the vendors to call look'em up there all over the place thats an easy one, and for the pick statement well here in good'ol west virginia we use such an object for diggin good luck!

Jeremy · 07-08-2008, 04:08 PM

I went with the LUK Cerama(sp?) in my 00, and to be honest...I hate it. The easier pedal effort was nice, but its way to grabby, and very hard to back up. My problem with the jerkyness is componded through the US gear Aux tranny, the little bit of spline slop, and the slop the ZF6 already had makes it a jerky, hoping POS. I've had it in there for 4 years now, and am probably gonna go with a SB from Peter when I pull the tranny to change the turbo up pipes to the IH bellows ones.

hope this helps
Jeremy

GS · 07-08-2008, 11:12 PM

I've got the Con-O, just installed 3 months or so ago.

Slightly easier pedal, great hookup, no hopping, no groaning in low rpm situations. I just pulled the 5th wheel for the first time and it worked flawlessly. Low range backing manuevers were fine, no bucking whatsoever.
I did try a burnout (I'm 46) just to test it, no problems there.

Have not tried any 4 wheel drive.

The clutch does make the transmission louder, in neutral. Peter came on here some time ago with an explanation of why this is, search and you will find the thread.

I'm not sure you really want to go with the paddle type of clutch, best to talk with Peter at SB and give him your specs and applications.

Oh yeah, make sure you get the Kevlar bearing and the upgraded fork.

Good luck with your choice.

Justin C. · 07-08-2008, 11:26 PM

I've got a Con OFE in my truck, and here's my thoughts on it. Great clutch. It holds my mods below with no problem, and the clutch is at least 1/2 easier to mash than it was before with my stock unit. What I don't like is it's pretty grabby. Taking off in 2nd gear isn't as easy, and backing up can be a little hard. My truck has a lot of gear noise now but that really doesn't matter to me.
Overall, I still think it's the only way to go. I got my clutch from Bean for around $900, which was a lot cheaper than going back with a new DMFlywheel and Ford clutch. If we want to have a lot higher than stock HP, I think a grabby clutch is just going to be a fact of life for us.

Justin