99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke Engine and DrivetrainDiscussion of the 99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 1999-Up Super Duty trucks and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 7.3L Power Stroke engine.
New owner here...changing all fluids, could use some advice.
Just bought my first diesel (well, not counting my Kubota). It's a 99.5 F250 with 100k on it. Already did a full tranny flush with Mercon, replaced the trans filter, and full oil and lube with Delvac 15W40 and a new Motorcraft filter.
The truck doesn't appear to have been abused, but I thought I should proceed as though no maintenance was done and just address all the ususal maintenance items now. I'm not sure what type of coolant is in her, for all know it's the original fill w/o any maintenance doses. I've searched the forum and found a whole bunch of conflicting comments about coolant. I don't want to start another dispute, but could someone tell me if there is an uncontroversial way to go with a low maintence coolant.
Aside from the coolant, what else should I address on this truck? Should I change the transaxle fluid? The diff tag says it's synthetic 75W140.
Re: New owner here...changing all fluids, could use some advice.
Welcome to TheDieselStop
If I were in your position I would also assume that no maintenance had been done and change the fluids in ALL the gearboxes. It sure can't hurt.
As for the coolant, I used the standard green stuff and added the SCA. You could probably do well with any coolant that meets the Ford Specification for either the green/SCA combination or the low maintenance stuff as you don't have to worry about warranty from Ford.
Re: New owner here...changing all fluids, could use some advice.
I agree and would do the differentials and transfer case too. Also check the serpentine belt and your hoses. Run a tank of fuel through her with a dose of diesel conditioner in it. Then change the fuel filter. This will rid you of any potential fuel system problems as a result of microbial contamination.
As far as coolant goes, you've got a lot of choices....
You can use any conventional coolant meeting ESE-M97B44-A that requires the addition of SCA when doing a flush. Any quality SCA will work. It will also require frequent testing and maintenance. But it will meet your engine's spec. These low-silicate coolants are made by just about every coolant manufacturer.
Or you can use any conventional coolant meeting ESE-M97B44-A that comes pre-charged with SCA. It will not require the addition of SCA upon flushing, but it will require some testing and possibly some maintenance. It will also meet your engine's spec. Some of these coolants include Prestone Heavy Duty, Zerex Pre-charged, Arctic Blend Heavy Duty, CAT Diesel Engine Anti-freeze, Detroit Diesel PowerCool, Fleetguard ES Complete, Fleetguard Fleetcool, Peak Fleet Charge. Popular coolant makers like Alliance, Quaker State, and Pennzoil also make these pre-charged coolants.
Or you could use a hybrid OAT ELC coolant. They come pre-charged with SCA. These coolants will contain silicates, phosphates, and other organic materials similar to the traditional coolants. They have a longer life and less maintenance than the traditional coolants, but a shorter life and more maintenance than the modern ELC's. These hybrid OAT's will not meet your engine's specification. They include brands like Peak CF-EXL Extended Life, Arctic Blend G-Plus, Valvoline Zerex G-05, Motorcraft Premium Gold, Fleetguard Fleetcool EX, along with the Chrysler, Mercedes, and John Deere brands.
Or you could use carboxylate NOAT ELC coolants. These are the coolants used by the big diesel makers like CAT, Detroit, Mack, International, etc., but like the HOATS, they will not meet the specs of your PSD. They will come pre-charged and have the most robust inhibitor and cavitation prevention packages. Since they contain no silicates, phosphates, or borates, they will have a longer life and be more maintenance-free. They include CAT ELC, Texaco ELC, Shell Rotella ELC, etc.
Then there are some odd-balls like the waterless Evans and the PG-based coolants, etc.
I'm not one to recommend particular brands, as they all seem to work fine. But keep in mind that International officially approves and recommends the use of the red Texaco ELC for their engines manufactured after 2/2/99. They did the testing and have used these coolants with excellent results for years.
Congrats on the new truck! [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif[/img]
Re: New owner here...changing all fluids, could use some advice.
Just did mine today. Green stay Green with the additive. $12 Gallon for Motorcraft premium but there are many that meet the specks(ESE-M97B44-A) additive speck is(ESN-M99B169-A). You may want to inspect your radiator hoses. Mine were real bad. Also change the factory clamps with worm clamps and if you do change the hoses you should get the upper hose that goes on the outside of the belt so changing it will be easier. Do the thermastat too. Napa carries all the hoses and test stips. Took me 2 hours start to finnish. Replaced radiator(it was leaking), coolant, hoses, clamps, and thermastat. 8mm all the way around.
Re: New owner here...changing all fluids, could use some advice.
Thanks Gooch. I've already ordered a new belt and fuel filter and they are in transport. Will run diesel conditioner through her before changing the filter. Will also change the diffs but I figured they were the least critical.
In regards to the coolant, (hey, you have to know antifreeze if you're from Alaska)I especiially want to thank you for the nice summary of the different types. My head was spinning with all the conflicting info in past posts. Just one last question.....if I decide to go with the NOAT ELC coolant, (I realize it doesn't meet the spec)..what is the worst that can happen? From what I gathered in past posts, it *may* develop some leaks or ruin the water pump, but at least it won't deveop pin hole leaks. Is that correct? I really don't want to be checking the coolant every few months. Thanks
Re: New owner here...changing all fluids, could use some advice.
[ QUOTE ]
By Bwygans:
additive speck is(ESN-M99B169-A)
[/ QUOTE ]
Butch, there is no SCA specification for the 99.5 PSD as seen HERE, page 37. FW-15 (now FW-16 and VC-8) is a Motorcraft part number, not a specification (just like a FL-1995 Motorcraft oil filter is a part number and not a filter specification). Other brand SCA's are perfectly ok in the PSD (as are other oil filters).
[ QUOTE ]
By pajohn:
if I decide to go with the NOAT ELC coolant, (I realize it doesn't meet the spec)..what is the worst that can happen?
[/ QUOTE ]
You'll get some of the best, maintenance-free, worry-free, long-lived cavitation and cooling system protection available. At least International and the other high-revving V-8 diesel makers think so. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img]
[ QUOTE ]
By pajohn:
From what I gathered in past posts, it *may* develop some leaks or ruin the water pump, but at least it won't deveop pin hole leaks. Is that correct?
[/ QUOTE ]
We just haven't seen that. "May" is a term you have to take with a grain of salt. Most of the cooling system failures we see happen when members use coolants that contain silicates, phoshpates, and borates. In fact there was a member last week that had a water pump failure on his '02 while using the silicate-containing Gold.
Again International tested and used the ELC as factory fill in their T444E. You can see HERE, page 2 that they tested it for 35 million miles without a single cooling system failure. The T444E's water pump comes from the same supplier as the PSD's water pump, and it will be made from the same alloys and have the same seal and bearing. And International uses the ELC in a variety of chassis applications with a variety of cooling system metals. So don't let anyone tell you Ford's cooling system is "special". Obviously fleets and owners have been using them for many miles without problems.
Re: New owner here...changing all fluids, could use some advice.
You need synthetic for your diff because your diff is limited slip and unless you want chatter when turning a corner you need synthetic. One other thing before doing the coolant change you might want to consider is using a top hose for a dual alternator set up. You can then get the hose off without having to take the serpentine belt off. I bought a new belt and hoses and my next change will be the time to do the hose change and serpentine belt change.
I love my PSD even if it is an early 99. Honestly been the best truck I have ever owned. One last thing is a crankshaft position sensor known here as a CPS. You may want to carry one of those as your truck will die and go no where with a bad one. Check around here and you will find that a lot of use carry one of those so that you are never stranded. I also carry a brand new Ford water pump too as I have 127,000 and when it goes and if I am not local at least I have options.
Re: New owner here...changing all fluids, could use some advice.
Thanks Gooch,
Didn't know. I took it off the empty bottle. I still say keep it GREEN
[img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/biggrin.gif[/img]Since its the only stuff I've run I thought it would be on every bottle that we could use in the truck. Will the NAPA or Internation stuff work? Fw-16 DC4 DC8 whatever I'm confused now.
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