No Start and No Smoke 99-7.3 PS 250k - Diesel Forum

mrjunks · 02-21-2013, 01:59 PM

Hello

my normally reliable SD / PS has checked out
Have no start and no smoke
really need to get on down the road to my work

Batteries near new, terminals clean, take a charge and cranking
Block heater on
Have Wait To Start cycle
Have tack and oil pressure when cranking

Exchanged crank postion sensor
Have 12 volts at Crank Sensor
Changed fuses inside and out
Have oil at the HPOP reservoir
Exchanged IPR and sensor (old sensor was 'loose')
Tested HPOP at head both heads and plugged = 2000 psi or better all 3 tests

Tested fuel pressure 55 psi at bowl
Have fuel in bowl, although it sometimes ‘appears low’ when opened (1/2 full) perhaps it is just the true level after filter removal
Exchanged fuel regulator
The fuel bowl heater was taken out yrs ago

exchanged a friends IDM at the drivers fender
removed and reset in place 'chip' / changed setting on chip

Glow Plug relay 'snapping' on
i know i have a few bad GPs but would i not see some smoke anyway if ALL were bad?

if i 'touch it' with a little ether i get a little action (mild smoke)

waiting for days for local mechanic to swing by for read out but he might be waiting for St Pats first.

thanks

tinman13kup · 02-21-2013, 03:49 PM

Have you tried unplugging the ICP? The tach moving is a good sign, and I see you swapped out the IDM. Have you tried swapping out the IDM relay?

You said you have fuel pressure at the filter, and noted the bowl being half full when opened. Is that from one of those lid/filter assemblies? The back of the filter assembly has 2 ports. The one that is easy to get to is pre-filter, but the one that is low on the passenger side is post filter. That is the one you should get pressure from. There is a checkvalve in the black stem the filter sits on. If it is closed from bad o-rings or a bad filter, you would have pressure PRE-filter, but not post-filter.

While you are under there, make sure the harness that sits ON the drivers valve cover isn't chafed. It can short out the injectors and you won't be starting.

PATRICK4 · 02-21-2013, 04:04 PM

The only thing I have to add is: "put the ether away". I think Tinman is on the right track....sounds like a no fuel issue.

mrjunks · 02-21-2013, 06:57 PM

thnx

i double checked the IDM relay, i think i have it right, switched them all out again
ill try to buy new tomorrow. But as it goes it would be nice to have a truck to go to the china shop

i checked the after filter fuel (not easy to do, seams like zero tonight) and it is at 55psi

tinman13kup · 02-21-2013, 07:41 PM

I would try plugging the heater in and unplugging the icp. It's kinda shooting in the dark without a scan tool, but trying to not just say to replace things. I would hold off on the relay for the moment. If you swapped it out with the pcm relay and the WTS light still came on, the relay itself is doing what it's supposed to.

Did this problem come up on it's own, or was there work done (regardless of what) and the no-start happened afterward. Do you have a chip ? If you do, I would recommend pulling it until the truck is running right. Chips can cause the problem, and they sure don't aid in diagnosing the problem.

mrjunks · 02-21-2013, 09:07 PM

i did unplug the ICP at one time, ill try again

the wires at the DS Valve Cover right before the clip show two that are stripped. I dont see where anything could have worn the plastic off...more like someone purposely stripped the wire to perhaps do a reading (?)

that is the wires that you had in mind? Anyway, for now, i can separate all wires such that none can touch another.

turns out it is 8 degrees out

mrjunks · 02-21-2013, 09:14 PM

It has been sitting more than usual at a construction site. I had started it every 2 days. it had to be plugged in. I would say it took some crank to start a few times.

Generally my MPG has dropped off and i have a real power loss issue on hills. though it might be a turbo issue that i would get to after the ice age. The IPR control was loose just flopping around on the shaft.

**klhansen** · 02-21-2013, 10:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mrjunks

i did unplug the ICP at one time, ill try again

the wires at the DS Valve Cover right before the clip show two that are stripped. I dont see where anything could have worn the plastic off...more like someone purposely stripped the wire to perhaps do a reading (?)

that is the wires that you had in mind? Anyway, for now, i can separate all wires such that none can touch another.

turns out it is 8 degrees out

The bottom wires on the harness going across the valve cover are for the injector circuits that carry 100+ volts, so if they're bare, they could easily short out. If someone stripped them to test, they should be slapped upside the head.

If you're at 8 degrees F, and have non-functioning glow plugs, you'll definitely have trouble starting. That can be remedied by plugging in the block heater. Be sure that your heater cord is working. If the wiring is pulled apart inside the insulation, that will cause problems also.

PATRICK4 · 02-22-2013, 05:07 PM

When you said "IPR control was flopping around"...are you talking about the IPR solenoid? If so, that is not good and is probably your problem. Look for a spacer that is about 1 inch long and a tin nut.

Edit:
ok, I just reread your first post. I'm guessing that you were talking about your original IPR?

mrjunks · 02-23-2013, 11:43 AM

Patrick: The nut on the IPR holding nut was off when I first started in this venture. I was hoping things where that easy
Replaced the solenoid, with spacer and nut, and then replaced IPR with 3rd solenoid and nut. HPOP shows she has pressure to both heads.

Out of ideas

mrjunks · 02-23-2013, 11:53 AM

The Block Heater has been on for days, the block is rather warm

The harness coming across the driver side valve cover does not rub, I have 1/2" clearance
and the wires appear fine. Ill disconnect the plug and examine further.

I guess I need to go back over most everything. My friends IDM, which is just a used backup, off the shelve (1/2" of dust on it) unit.... might be suspect.

thanks

mrjunks · 02-25-2013, 03:08 PM

The local independent came by. his 'snap on' reader would not read from the port.
it read other codes ie threw a speed sensor code
he said to change the PCM

but i am getting WTS and FUEL PRESSURE power at the cranksensor

My Q's would be would a fried PCM give you a WTS?

tinman13kup · 02-25-2013, 04:54 PM

It can. There are many different logic and control circuits in the pcm. You don't have to see the whole pcm go up in smoke to have a bad pcm. I had to replace my idm all because of injector circuit 8. The truck ran, but the idm wouldn't fire no8 for some reason.