Oil Leak - Please Help Me Retain My Sanity - Galley/Rail Plug?? - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
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99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain Discussion of the 99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 1999-Up Super Duty trucks and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 7.3L Power Stroke engine.

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Old 03-27-2007, 01:07 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Oil Leak - Please Help Me Retain My Sanity - Galley/Rail Plug??

Hi, I bought my '02 F-350 Crew Cab 7.3 diesel about 6 weeks ago. I knew it had an oil leak when I bought it, but I assumed it would be simple enough to find and fix.

The leak is about 4 drops per night on the garage floor. The oil is dripping at the hole near the starter. There is only oil on the right side near the starter; none dripping at the left side. I've been working on this for about 4 weeks, and just can't find it. I went to a Northern Virginia Ford diesel get-together and had 3 guys look at it, and nobody could find the leak, either from above or below.

Here is what I have checked:

Around the turbo, it is as dry as can be. Nothing on the turbo pedestal. The EBPV at the turbo is visible, clean, and dry. I have been on top of the engine at least 8 times with a mirror, lights, etc, and there is absolutely no oil visible around the turbo. (Is it possible that a lower o-ring on the turbo pedestal leaks straight back down, and has no oil leak visible?)

Up front around the HPOP, it is bone dry. I have had 3 people look at this area, and no-one can find any leaks up front.

The top/valley of the motor is totally dry, no visible leaks.

I have had the inspection cover between the engine and auto-tranny off twice. While there was oil dripping down the cover, the flywheel and area around the main seal (if that is what I'm looking at) is totally dry. The only oil in the inspection cover appears to be originating from the hole next to the starter.

There is no leak where the dipstick enters the oil pan.

I at first thought the oil pan was leaking where it mounts to the bottom of the motor near the starter. However, after cleaning things up, it appears that the oil around the edges of the oil pan is really from the hole near the starter. However, I could be wrong on this one.

The only thing that I cannot see too well is the back of the engine. Due to (1) the exhaust pipe going from the manifold up the turbo, (2) the exhaust down pipe going from the turbo back to the muffler; and (3) the transmission fill tube, I can't get my hand on the back of the motor from the bottom, and I can't see very much. I've read a lot about the oil galley plugs. Are these the same as the oil rail plugs? I've seen a plug with a female square opening on the right side of the engine below the valve cover near the starter, and on the left side of the engine as a male square plug. Both of these plugs are bone dry. Are there plugs on the back of the engine different from these side plugs?

Bottom line, the oil is dripping out the hole near the starter. Thus, it's probably coming from above. I think I've ruled out the turbo area and the HPOP.

The back of the engine is all that is left. Do I need to take off the exhaust pipes to see this area from below? Help Help Help.

This is becoming very personal; me versus the machine, and I'm getting my butt kicked.

If someone has pictures of a rear view of the engine showing the plugs, that would be helpful

By the way, I bought some florescent die to put in the motor. A one ounce bottle of yellow stuff (Interdyne). Very visible at full strength with a black light. However, the one bottle was not enough for the 17 quarts of motor oil, because even shining the light on the dipstick at night, I can barely see the yellow on the dip stick. I need a second bottle of die to add so I can see it.

Really, I have been working on this for weeks. Based on my complete lack of experience with this motor, I'm guessing that it is the oil galley or oil rail plugs, but I just can't see where they are, and I can't see much on the back of the motor. Help!!!!

Thanks for your comments and advice.

Jim
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Old 03-27-2007, 02:00 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Re: Oil Leak - Please Help Me Retain My Sanity - Galley/Rail Plug??

[ QUOTE ]
Is it possible that a lower o-ring on the turbo pedestal leaks straight back down, and has no oil leak visible?

[/ QUOTE ]
The answer to this is yes. You need to get a mirror behind the base of the turbo pedistal and see if there is oil leaking from there. It will come out and dribble right down the back of the engine. Lots of folks mistake this for a rear main leak, which hopefully you don't have.
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Old 03-27-2007, 10:49 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Re: Oil Leak - Please Help Me Retain My Sanity - Galley/Rail Plug??

[ QUOTE ]
You need to get a mirror behind the base of the turbo pedistal and see if there is oil leaking from there. It will come out and dribble right down the back of the engine. Lots of folks mistake this for a rear main leak, which hopefully you don't have.

[/ QUOTE ]

OK, I checked the turbo/pedestal for the 8th time, and I am sure there is no oil around the pedestal. None is around the back. So the turbo and pedestal are ruled out.

So, if I'm right, it seems like it must be the galley plugs. Can someone post a picture of these. Please. I really need help of where to look on the back of the engine.

Do I need to take off the down pipe? Might be a good excuse to upgrade the exhaust system.

Jim
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Old 03-28-2007, 11:19 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Re: Oil Leak - Please Help Me Retain My Sanity - Galley/Rail Plug??

I recently pulled my engine for a leaky front cover and it is in my basement on a stand so I thought I would run down and take a picture for you

Look HERE Picture 317 should show you what you want.
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Old 03-29-2007, 12:03 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Re: Oil Leak - Please Help Me Retain My Sanity - Galley/Rail Plug??

[ QUOTE ]
Look HERE Picture 317 should show you what you want.

[/ QUOTE ]

The oil rail plugs are the larger ones toward the top of Jat99's picture, and are the same on the front and back of the engine (heads). They're sealed with o-rings, so might be where your oil is coming from. I'd think you could see it with a mirror, but 4 drops per night isn't much.

This should be what you'd need to fix a leak there.

Int'l 1827535C94 Gallery Rail End plug Kit. (Steel plug &amp; blue coated seal ring).

Good luck
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Old 03-29-2007, 07:23 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Re: Oil Leak - Please Help Me Retain My Sanity - Galley/Rail Plug??

[ QUOTE ]
I recently pulled my engine for a leaky front cover and it is in my basement on a stand so I thought I would run down and take a picture for you

[/ QUOTE ]

Hey jat99 (and KLHansen), thank you for taking the pictures and comments. They are very helpful. That is a really pretty engine you have. My Ford manual on a CD did not have any drawings of that area, and the exhaust downpipes and up pipes were blocking a part of the engine. I thought they were blocking these plugs, but I was looking a lot lower. The pictures and comments are a really big help, and appreciate it.

Hope whatever work you are doing on the engine is going well.

I'm taking off for a trip, but when I get back, I am going to find and fix the leak. Thanks.

Jim
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Old 05-29-2007, 08:37 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Leak Fixed - A How-To change the galley plug

The oil leak was the passenger side rear galley plug. I could not see that the leak was coming from the right rear galley plug because the down pipe blocked the view, and I had to remove the downpipe to do the job. Here is a tech write-up, sorry it's so long. It is the first real project I did on this motor. Is there any place that I can post this as a tech article?


<u>How to replace rear galley plug in a 2002 7.3 liter Powerstroke F-350</u>

Background

An oil leak was driving me nuts. Each morning after use, the truck had leaked oil onto the painted garage floor in the size of about 2 inches by 1/2 inch (yes, it was getting bigger than described above). The problem was that I could not figure out its source. A Ford dealer told me it was the main seal, but based on what I read, this was not probable. The leak was not coming from the top of the engine. I thoroughly checked multiple times the HPOP area and the turbo pedestal, but saw no oil at the top of the engine. I also thought for a while that it was the oil pan gasket, as oil was dripping down the oil pan.

From under the truck, oil was dripping out a weep hole near the starter, and also from the flywheel cover area. When I removed the flywheel cover, there was no oil to indicate that there was an oil leak at the main seal. So, I guessed the leak was from the right galley plug at the rear of the engine (the one place that I could not see), and replaced with the hope that this was really the leak.

What is the Galley Plug and Where Is It Located?

First, you need to know where the oil galley plug is located. There is one on the left side of the back of the engine, and one on the right side of the back of the engine. (I also believe that there are such plugs at the front of the engine.)

Here is a picture of the right side of the back of the engine, with a galley oil plug sitting on top of the engine. (Thanks to ďjat1999Ē for posting this picture and the next picture so I could clearly see the oil galley plug on a removed engine).

Picture of Right Galley Plug of Removed Engine (from jat1999)

Here is a picture of the entire back of the engine showing both the left and the right rear oil galley plug.

Picture of Rear of Removed Engine (from jat1999)

If you look up from bottom at the right side of the engine, you canít see the right rear oil galley plug because the downpipe is in the way. So, it was impossible for me to see where the leak was coming from.

Picture of DownPipe blocking Galley Plug

My galley plug was very very tight. So, even though I could get a ratchet or a swivel (two swivels and a long extension) on it without taking off the downpipe, I could not get a good angle to apply the force needed to remove the plug. I eventually gave up trying to get the galley plug out without removing the downpipe because the plug was in so tight that I could not apply enough pressure, even with the down pipe loosened (but still on the truck). Maybe you can get a better angle, or are stronger than me and can get it off without removing the downpipe. For me, the downpipe had to come out.

<u>Process for Replacement of Right Rear Galley Plug</u>

Removal of Down Pipe


Picture of Top of Engine

1. Remove Clamp Connecting Downpipe to Turbo

In order to have clear access to the right rear galley plug, I removed the downpipe coming off the turbo and which connects to the muffler. My arms were too big to get the downpipe clamp, so I first removed a clamp holding an aluminum intake pipe that was connected to the intercooler that was in the way (in the picture labeled intake joint). With the intake pipe loosened up, I was able to gain easy access to the clamp connecting the downpipe to the turbo. I removed this clamp, which made the downpipe loose at the top end.

(Note that in the above picture, you can see on the top portion of the engine a 1/2 inch flexible head ratchet on the right rear oil galley plug. The plug was so too tight and I could not get enough leverage to loosen the plug from this angle above the engine, so this attempt to get the plug out did not work.)

(Also note that the even with the downpipe loose where it connects to the turbo, I could clearly see the galley plug, but I could not get enough leverage on the galley plug to remove it because the downpipe interfered with the movement of the ratchet. Man, it was in tight. The problem was that extension inserted in the galley plug had some wobble, and the ratchet contacted the fender liner/downpipe, thus preventing good leverage)

2. Remove the nuts connecting the downpipe to the exhaust pipe at the transmission.

There are three nuts holding the downpipe to the pipe that connects to the muffler. Remove these three nuts and the downpipe is free at each end.

Even though the downpupe is disconnected at each end, it is trapped and cannot be removed due the transmission support, which must come out.

3. Remove the transmission support

First, you must support the transmission. This was easy for me because my truck is a 4X4, and there was a skid plate below the transfer case. I supported the transmission by wedging 2x4s and 1x4s between the skid plate and the transfer case, and the supported transfer case held the transmission in place. (Note that I

With the transmission supported, you need to remove the transmission support. I first removed all of the bolts on the passenger side. Even with the bolts removed on the passenger side, the transmission brace is still supported on the passenger side because it rests on the lip of the frame.

Next, remove the three bolts holding the transmission support on the drivers side of the truck. With these three bolts, removed, the transmission support drops, and the transmission sagged down a little (maybe 1/4 of an inch, until the skid plate of the transmission stopped sagging). Now you can remove the transmission support. With the transmission support removed, the downpipe comes right out.

Remove the Galley Plug

Before going any further, realize that when the galley plug comes out, a fair amount of oil is also going to come out. (I estimate at least a half of a quart). Make sure you have something to catch all of the oil that will be running down the back of the engine.

Picture of Exposed Galley Plug

Now you have clear access to the passenger side galley plug at the rear of the engine. In order to remove the plug, I used a large 1/2 inch ratchet with a very short extension (about 2 inches). The extension fits right in the square recess on the back of the galley plug. It took an incredible amount of force to remove the plug. Man, it was really in tight. When the plug came out, a quart or so of oil came out of the high pressure galley.

Install the New Plug

Next, install the new plug. The part number is Ford 4C3Z-6026-CA which I purchased in April of 2007 for $6.48 from a Ford dealer. I believe the international part number is 1827535C94. Apply some clean oil to the o-ring on the new galley plug so it is installed smoothly without any damage. I have read about people using various sealants on the thread of the galley plug. This galley plug seals using the o-ring, and I believe that no sealant on the threads is really necessary. However, I used some Teflon sealant in a tube (donít know the part number) for some extra comfort. Be careful threading in the new plug so you donít cross-thread it. I did not know how hard to torque down the new galley plug. Since the old plug was really really tight, I installed the new plug as tight as I could. (Itís still a tight fit for the ratchet with the downpipe removed, so itís hard to apply all of the torque youíd have if the engine was removed.)

Reconnect the Downpipe

With the new plug installed, itís time to put things back together. Iíd start by installing the downpipe. First, connect the downpipe to the exhaust pipe under the truck near the transmission. Use all three nuts, but donít tighten, as you will need to adjust the downpipe when connecting it up top to the turbo.

Reconnecting the downpipe to the turbo proved very difficult as a one person job. The downpipe had a lot of wiggle room, and it was impossible to hold it in place while clamping it back to the turbo. So, I got my wife to go under the truck and hold it in place. With someone holding the downpipe in place from the bottom, it was a piece of cake to get the clamp around it. With the downpipe properly in place, secure the clamp to the turbo, and the three nuts holding it to the pipe attached to the muffler.

Next, reconnect up the intake pipe if you took it off. I donít have the torque specifications, but tighten it up good and tight so it wonít blow off at a bad time.


Reconnect the Transmission Support

Last, you need to connect the transmission support back up. First, rest the support on the passenger side of the frame, and install the bolts. Unfortunately, the transmission has sagged down a little, and you need to bring it back in place. I used a floor jack with a 4X4 oriented vertically on the transmission brace to bring it back in place. With the support in place, install and tighten all of the bolts.

Post Installation Procedures

I thought I was done at this point, but the truck wouldnít start. After checking the glow plug relay and looking at anything else on top of the engine that I may have bumped, I realized that the high pressure oil galley that drives the injectors on the passenger side of the engine was mostly filled with air, so the injectors were not getting enough oil to fire, and the truck wouldnít run.

After cranking the engine for a little while, and it not starting due to a lack of oil pressure, you should check the HPOP reservoir and make sure the oil level is about 1/2 inch from the top. First remove the plastic ďPower StrokeĒ cover from the HPOP reservoir.

Picture of Cover

Next, remove the plug using an allen head socket or hex wrench. The picture shows an allen head socket in the reservoir plug.

Picture of Reservoir


It just took a lot of cranking of the engine to get the thing to fire up. Once it got running, Iíd say it takes about 20 or 30 miles of use, and several days to work all of the air out to get it to start right up like it did before changing the plug.

Oil Leak Detection

Through this job, I also learned about the use of dye to detect oil leaks. You donít pour the dye directly into the oil filler tube, as most of the dye will get stuck on the side walls of the filler tube, and not make it into the crank case. Through searching, I learned that you dump the dye in a quart of oil, and then pour the oil into the filler tube.

Since the back of the plug was hidden by the downpipe, and pretty much impossible to see, Iím not sure that if I got the dye working right I would have been able to confirm that it was the galley plug that was leaking. But, I just went with my instinct, changed the plug, and that was the problem.
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Old 05-30-2007, 07:31 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Re: Oil Leak - Please Help Me Retain My Sanity - Galley/Rail Plug??

Hey Jat whats with the foil on the pan?
BTW I have a different International part number for the oil rail plug. This is also a complete plug with o-ring. # 1827535-C91
But since klhansen's number has a higher suffix maybe his the most current.
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Old 10-20-2008, 08:23 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Resurrecting this old thread... just to give big thanks to these and the rest of the posters here at Diesel Stop.....

Pretty good oil leak started last week, finally traced it to the back of the driverside head.. found the source...

Came here did a quick search ... got the info needed including part numbers..

Once again this is the place to go for help/info/answers


Thanks all


gr
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Old 11-17-2008, 12:44 PM   #10 (permalink)
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I too have found a very slow leak that is showing its ugly face near the starter. I originally thought it was the oil pan, but thanks to this thread...I gots me a new place to look.

BTW, if it were the oil pan, has anyone here tried to use a gasket maker while the engine was still in the truck?
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Old 01-25-2011, 09:14 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Nice write up!

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