The oil leak was the passenger side rear galley plug. I could not see that the leak was coming from the right rear galley plug because the down pipe blocked the view, and I had to remove the downpipe to do the job. Here is a tech write-up, sorry it's so long. It is the first real project I did on this motor. Is there any place that I can post this as a tech article?
<u>How to replace rear galley plug in a 2002 7.3 liter Powerstroke F-350</u>
Background
An oil leak was driving me nuts. Each morning after use, the truck had leaked oil onto the painted garage floor in the size of about 2 inches by 1/2 inch (yes, it was getting bigger than described above). The problem was that I could not figure out its source. A Ford dealer told me it was the main seal, but based on what I read, this was not probable. The leak was not coming from the top of the engine. I thoroughly checked multiple times the HPOP area and the turbo pedestal, but saw no oil at the top of the engine. I also thought for a while that it was the oil pan gasket, as oil was dripping down the oil pan.
From under the truck, oil was dripping out a weep hole near the starter, and also from the flywheel cover area. When I removed the flywheel cover, there was no oil to indicate that there was an oil leak at the main seal. So, I guessed the leak was from the right galley plug at the rear of the engine (the one place that I could not see), and replaced with the hope that this was really the leak.
What is the Galley Plug and Where Is It Located?
First, you need to know where the oil galley plug is located. There is one on the left side of the back of the engine, and one on the right side of the back of the engine. (I also believe that there are such plugs at the front of the engine.)
Here is a picture of the right side of the back of the engine, with a galley oil plug sitting on top of the engine. (Thanks to “jat1999” for posting this picture and the next picture so I could clearly see the oil galley plug on a removed engine).
Picture of Right Galley Plug of Removed Engine (from jat1999)
Here is a picture of the entire back of the engine showing both the left and the right rear oil galley plug.
Picture of Rear of Removed Engine (from jat1999)
If you look up from bottom at the right side of the engine, you can’t see the right rear oil galley plug because the downpipe is in the way. So, it was impossible for me to see where the leak was coming from.
Picture of DownPipe blocking Galley Plug
My galley plug was very very tight. So, even though I could get a ratchet or a swivel (two swivels and a long extension) on it without taking off the downpipe, I could not get a good angle to apply the force needed to remove the plug. I eventually gave up trying to get the galley plug out without removing the downpipe because the plug was in so tight that I could not apply enough pressure, even with the down pipe loosened (but still on the truck). Maybe you can get a better angle, or are stronger than me and can get it off without removing the downpipe. For me, the downpipe had to come out.
<u>Process for Replacement of Right Rear Galley Plug</u>
Removal of Down Pipe
Picture of Top of Engine
1. Remove Clamp Connecting Downpipe to Turbo
In order to have clear access to the right rear galley plug, I removed the downpipe coming off the turbo and which connects to the muffler. My arms were too big to get the downpipe clamp, so I first removed a clamp holding an aluminum intake pipe that was connected to the intercooler that was in the way (in the picture labeled intake joint). With the intake pipe loosened up, I was able to gain easy access to the clamp connecting the downpipe to the turbo. I removed this clamp, which made the downpipe loose at the top end.
(Note that in the above picture, you can see on the top portion of the engine a 1/2 inch flexible head ratchet on the right rear oil galley plug. The plug was so too tight and I could not get enough leverage to loosen the plug from this angle above the engine, so this attempt to get the plug out did not work.)
(Also note that the even with the downpipe loose where it connects to the turbo, I could clearly see the galley plug, but I could not get enough leverage on the galley plug to remove it because the downpipe interfered with the movement of the ratchet. Man, it was in tight. The problem was that extension inserted in the galley plug had some wobble, and the ratchet contacted the fender liner/downpipe, thus preventing good leverage)
2. Remove the nuts connecting the downpipe to the exhaust pipe at the transmission.
There are three nuts holding the downpipe to the pipe that connects to the muffler. Remove these three nuts and the downpipe is free at each end.
Even though the downpupe is disconnected at each end, it is trapped and cannot be removed due the transmission support, which must come out.
3. Remove the transmission support
First, you must support the transmission. This was easy for me because my truck is a 4X4, and there was a skid plate below the transfer case. I supported the transmission by wedging 2x4s and 1x4s between the skid plate and the transfer case, and the supported transfer case held the transmission in place. (Note that I
With the transmission supported, you need to remove the transmission support. I first removed all of the bolts on the passenger side. Even with the bolts removed on the passenger side, the transmission brace is still supported on the passenger side because it rests on the lip of the frame.
Next, remove the three bolts holding the transmission support on the drivers side of the truck. With these three bolts, removed, the transmission support drops, and the transmission sagged down a little (maybe 1/4 of an inch, until the skid plate of the transmission stopped sagging). Now you can remove the transmission support. With the transmission support removed, the downpipe comes right out.
Remove the Galley Plug
Before going any further, realize that when the galley plug comes out, a fair amount of oil is also going to come out. (I estimate at least a half of a quart). Make sure you have something to catch all of the oil that will be running down the back of the engine.
Picture of Exposed Galley Plug
Now you have clear access to the passenger side galley plug at the rear of the engine. In order to remove the plug, I used a large 1/2 inch ratchet with a very short extension (about 2 inches). The extension fits right in the square recess on the back of the galley plug. It took an incredible amount of force to remove the plug. Man, it was really in tight. When the plug came out, a quart or so of oil came out of the high pressure galley.
Install the New Plug
Next, install the new plug. The part number is Ford 4C3Z-6026-CA which I purchased in April of 2007 for $6.48 from a Ford dealer. I believe the international part number is 1827535C94. Apply some clean oil to the o-ring on the new galley plug so it is installed smoothly without any damage. I have read about people using various sealants on the thread of the galley plug. This galley plug seals using the o-ring, and I believe that no sealant on the threads is really necessary. However, I used some Teflon sealant in a tube (don’t know the part number) for some extra comfort. Be careful threading in the new plug so you don’t cross-thread it. I did not know how hard to torque down the new galley plug. Since the old plug was really really tight, I installed the new plug as tight as I could. (It’s still a tight fit for the ratchet with the downpipe removed, so it’s hard to apply all of the torque you’d have if the engine was removed.)
Reconnect the Downpipe
With the new plug installed, it’s time to put things back together. I’d start by installing the downpipe. First, connect the downpipe to the exhaust pipe under the truck near the transmission. Use all three nuts, but don’t tighten, as you will need to adjust the downpipe when connecting it up top to the turbo.
Reconnecting the downpipe to the turbo proved very difficult as a one person job. The downpipe had a lot of wiggle room, and it was impossible to hold it in place while clamping it back to the turbo. So, I got my wife to go under the truck and hold it in place. With someone holding the downpipe in place from the bottom, it was a piece of cake to get the clamp around it. With the downpipe properly in place, secure the clamp to the turbo, and the three nuts holding it to the pipe attached to the muffler.
Next, reconnect up the intake pipe if you took it off. I don’t have the torque specifications, but tighten it up good and tight so it won’t blow off at a bad time.
Reconnect the Transmission Support
Last, you need to connect the transmission support back up. First, rest the support on the passenger side of the frame, and install the bolts. Unfortunately, the transmission has sagged down a little, and you need to bring it back in place. I used a floor jack with a 4X4 oriented vertically on the transmission brace to bring it back in place. With the support in place, install and tighten all of the bolts.
Post Installation Procedures
I thought I was done at this point, but the truck wouldn’t start. After checking the glow plug relay and looking at anything else on top of the engine that I may have bumped, I realized that the high pressure oil galley that drives the injectors on the passenger side of the engine was mostly filled with air, so the injectors were not getting enough oil to fire, and the truck wouldn’t run.
After cranking the engine for a little while, and it not starting due to a lack of oil pressure, you should check the HPOP reservoir and make sure the oil level is about 1/2 inch from the top. First remove the plastic “Power Stroke” cover from the HPOP reservoir.
Picture of Cover
Next, remove the plug using an allen head socket or hex wrench. The picture shows an allen head socket in the reservoir plug.
Picture of Reservoir
It just took a lot of cranking of the engine to get the thing to fire up. Once it got running, I’d say it takes about 20 or 30 miles of use, and several days to work all of the air out to get it to start right up like it did before changing the plug.
Oil Leak Detection
Through this job, I also learned about the use of dye to detect oil leaks. You don’t pour the dye directly into the oil filler tube, as most of the dye will get stuck on the side walls of the filler tube, and not make it into the crank case. Through searching, I learned that you dump the dye in a quart of oil, and then pour the oil into the filler tube.
Since the back of the plug was hidden by the downpipe, and pretty much impossible to see, I’m not sure that if I got the dye working right I would have been able to confirm that it was the galley plug that was leaking. But, I just went with my instinct, changed the plug, and that was the problem.
), AIS, 
1999.5 F350 CrewCab - 7.3 with 175k. New tranny at 130k. DP F5. Hi Idle/80e/80t/decel. 4" Turbo-back - DIY NAPA 6637 Intake. New Starter at 170k
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