99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke Engine and DrivetrainDiscussion of the 99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 1999-Up Super Duty trucks and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 7.3L Power Stroke engine.
So i needed to replace my oil pan so i took out my engine yesterday and started working on taking the truck apart since friday, since i want this truck to last a while i want to do the stuff right the first time, i have some oil in my valley along with a nice nest of random papers, pine needles and mcdonalds paper bags from some mouse and a old piece of dark chocolate cake, anyways theres a lot of oil, my pan was leaking but i couldnt tell there was a leak here too everything is soaked and i saw a little antifreeze in there too not sure if that from the leak or from when i took out the heater core hoses
anyways i also saw some black soot around the firewall on the doghouse and theres an exhaust leak i could smell something every once and a while when i used my drive thru mode on my dp tuner, so it seems to be leakin from the up pies near the conector to the turbo, cause when i took it out i could move the pipes around inside the y connector without touching the bolts so that real loose, is that a kit i need to buy or do i need new pipes or should i get an aftermarket part if this is common, also where is my oil coming from i kinda seee some wetness from the panel where the air inlet goes on the block ill post some pics, should i replace the valve cover gaskets, how about the head gaskets, or whats the hpop is that something i should check out, im going to pressure wash the whole thing tomorrow morning to get ready to work on it
thanks guys im kinda new at this just want to do it right since its a rare chamce to have the whole engine on a stand
once again thanks
__________________
2003 F-350 Super Duty, (D.O.B. 08/2002), Crew Cab, Long Box, 7.3L of Course, Custom John Woods 4r100 Tow Master Transmission, 4" rancho lift, rancho shocks, Rancho Double Piston Steering Stabilizer, 16 position custom DP Tuner with the following tunes in order:no start, stock, 1100rpm warm up idle, 1100 high idle, lope idle, drive thru idle, 20hp tow, 40hp tow, 60hp tow, 80hp tow, deceleration, 80hp econo, 60hp econo, 80hp econo mountains, 100hp, 120hp race mode, NAPA 6637 Custom Intake, external transmission oil filter, sirens, air horn, under glow lighting, spot lights all around, homemade back rack, CB Radio, Recon Cab Lights, running board clearance lights, lots of heavy towing etc. best thing i ever bought, 134k miles as of 2-15-10,
Dunlop Maxx Traction M/T 315/75/16 E rated
Just Done 3-1-10:
New Oil Pan, HPOP seal rebuild, fuel bowl complete rebuild, turbo pedestal rebuild, IH Bellowed Up-Pipes, new boots, Foil Delete on Pipes, Muffler Delete, EGT, Boost Gauge install
Well the soot is from your up pipes. Replace those and the gaskets while it's out. (You can spend some big bucks and get some of the bellows up'pipes or just get new ones from the dealer, and new CHEVY 350 gaskets. Look for the Auto Pro number F-1750 only. These are softer and will crush and seal well. The pipes will have a dimple in them where the gasket is if they are bad...probably are.
The oil leaks would be much easier to find if the truck was still running. The best way to chase one down is clean the motor, and look for the leak....
No offense to you but it seems all the newbs come on here asking where the motor is leaking from, when there are about 10 places these can leak on the top. All have up to 3,000 lbs of oil pressure going through them at wide open throttle.
So to try and guess where your's is leaking now is rough,,
You should replace the Turbo "O" rings of course, that is ONE place it could have been leaking from... but if the oil was all the way forward in the valley, likely not that. (Replace them anyway though)
__________________
Jim T.*48* SLAPS Co-Founder, 30.8 yrs RETIRED UAW 6/01/06, Now an ART (Specialists Flight Chief) with the USAFR 414th MXS Seymour Johnson AFB. My pics!'03 Dually pics!, New truck, 2011 F-350 SRW LB CC. White Platinum Lariat! 4x4
The oil along the intake plenums (inboard side of the heads) is most likely from the boots going from the turbo spider to the plenums. Do yourself a favor and get a set of Dieselsite's intake boots. Much better than stock, which will start oozing oil thru the boot material after a few years of service.
The valve cover gaskets should be fine, unless they're physically damaged for some reason. They seal with o-ring type seals on each side of the plastic gasket body. I've had my valve covers off more times than I'd like (at least 5 times) and the gaskets are still fine.
If you're worried about oil leaks, you could get o-rings for all the oil gallery plugs in the heads and for the HPOP hose fittings and replace them. Definitely replace turbo pedestal o-rings and the outlet o-ring on the turbo compressor. Oil rail o-rings can be had from International for about $1 each, so it's a cheap investment. On the other hand, if it ain't broke don't fix it, but as Jim said, it's harder to tell if it's broke (leaking) when it won't run.
The AutoGuide.com network consists of the largest network of enthusiast-owned enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
AutoGuide.com provides the latest car reviews, auto show coverage, new car prices, and automotive news. The AutoGuide network operates more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share opinions as a community.
), AIS, 
Linear Mode
