99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke Engine and DrivetrainDiscussion of the 99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 1999-Up Super Duty trucks and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 7.3L Power Stroke engine.
there was a guy that pulled his oil pan in the truck a while back and i was wundering if anyone can tell me who it was and/or how he did it. i do not have the means to pull the engine and i would rather NOT pull tranny,(live on dirt, no concrete to do it on). if any one knows let me know- need to put this thing back to gether
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1999 f350 7.3 6spd; 243k miles no mods
new timing cover
K&N air filter
replaced injectors
new HPOP
new ecm & idm
One guy cut the cross member and then welded it back together. And IIRC another guy drilled out the rivets holding the cross member in, and then used grade 8 bolts to put it back in.
FWIW, this is one of those jobs that I would find a place to do it "right". Iffen you were close enough to me, My driveway would be available with a hoist and engine stand.
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1994 F-350 7.3 IDI Turbo, crew cab, E4OD,4:10 L/S, LB, Dually Photos
ATS Turbo upgrades: 3" DP with 3" exhaust Magnaflow XL muffler: Pictures Here
2012 Copper Canyon 273 FWRET w/2 slides, Air Lift 5000 bags
Pillar pod: Autometer C2 Series gauges: pyro,trans, boost, water, oil pressure
Hypermax Cowl induction, K&N air filter, flex-a-lite 26K trans cooler with fan,Tekonsha prodigy
Train Horns: Pictures here
that would be nice. i also noticed my EBPT tube is broken what would that do as far as running or performance? can i fix w fuel line or does it get too hot?
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1999 f350 7.3 6spd; 243k miles no mods
new timing cover
K&N air filter
replaced injectors
new HPOP
new ecm & idm
If it's metal, then I wold suspect using any other material wouldn't really work. Can't say what performance issues might be caused by it being broken.
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1994 F-350 7.3 IDI Turbo, crew cab, E4OD,4:10 L/S, LB, Dually Photos
ATS Turbo upgrades: 3" DP with 3" exhaust Magnaflow XL muffler: Pictures Here
2012 Copper Canyon 273 FWRET w/2 slides, Air Lift 5000 bags
Pillar pod: Autometer C2 Series gauges: pyro,trans, boost, water, oil pressure
Hypermax Cowl induction, K&N air filter, flex-a-lite 26K trans cooler with fan,Tekonsha prodigy
Train Horns: Pictures here
its a serious pain in the butt,how ever removing the oil pan from a 7.3 with out completely removing the engine from the truck but you will still need to remove the trans and pull the engine up, untill there is enough clearance, its not much less work but all depends on what else you plan on doing well its out some things on those engines are sooo much easier with it being out of the truck
If you're planning on doing the oil pan and timing cover with the engine in the truck, I wouldn't recommend it. You'll probably have oil leak issues down the road. Too bad you don't have an auto tranny ( did I just say that??) The only advantage to that is you can leave the tranny in place while pulling the engine. That would be doable on a gravel drive. You could hoist the engine out and roll the truck back to clear it. Unfortunately on the 6-spd, the tranny has to come out first.
Seriously, find somewhere (or someone) to do it right and avoid problems later.
kl you think i might have the room w body lift? all my autos were gassers, but i still feel the same. city drivig (stop & go) i'm all for it but mtn's standered is the ONLY way to go. (my opinion) and i will just plug the tube at the manifold. oh and i think all the oil is drained been sitting for days w no oil in 'er. oh and i'm going to use copper rtv not going to spend $20+ on sealant. used b4 in other truck (gasser w no problems) and i am useing diesel oil (runs better) in that also. AND YOUR 'SLIP' IS FORGIVEN THIS TIME. HA HA HA HA
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1999 f350 7.3 6spd; 243k miles no mods
new timing cover
K&N air filter
replaced injectors
new HPOP
new ecm & idm
Last edited by tickedoff36; 11-26-2012 at 09:52 PM.
kl you think i might have the room w body lift? all my autos were gassers, but i still feel the same. city drivig (stop & go) i'm all for it but mtn's standered is the ONLY way to go. (my opinion) and i will just plug the tube at the manifold. oh and i think all the oil is drained been sitting for days w no oil in 'er. oh and i'm going to use copper rtv not going to spend $20+ on sealant. used b4 in other truck (gasser w no problems) and i am useing diesel oil (runs better) in that also. AND YOUR 'SLIP' IS FORGIVEN THIS TIME. HA HA HA HA
If you lift the body high enough, you'll be able to pull the engine all the way out and not have to mess with the cross-member.
I wouldn't cheap out on the sealant. Definitely get the International or Ford sealant made for diesels. Plain ol' or even copper RTV sealants have stuff in them that can deplete the anti-aeration properties in the oil. That's important in our diesels with the HEUI injecotors but wouldn't hurt a gasser.
Thanks for forgiving the slip. I thought for a minute I might have to give up my handshaker license.
Quote:
Originally Posted by chuckster57
First time your stuck on an up grade in bumper to bumper stop and go traffic with 11,000 lbs of fiver hooked on, you might think different. BTDT.
That's what granny gear is for. And if that doesn't work just shift the t-case into low range. Real men drive handshakers.
Then keep your handshaker OFF my driveway...just kidding. Seriously though I would find some way to pull the engine. It needs to be upside down for the pan seal to cure correctly.
You could let it sit for a week and still have oil creep down the block, contaminating the sealant.
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1994 F-350 7.3 IDI Turbo, crew cab, E4OD,4:10 L/S, LB, Dually Photos
ATS Turbo upgrades: 3" DP with 3" exhaust Magnaflow XL muffler: Pictures Here
2012 Copper Canyon 273 FWRET w/2 slides, Air Lift 5000 bags
Pillar pod: Autometer C2 Series gauges: pyro,trans, boost, water, oil pressure
Hypermax Cowl induction, K&N air filter, flex-a-lite 26K trans cooler with fan,Tekonsha prodigy
Train Horns: Pictures here
Pulled the 7.3 out of the boy's 250 once. took it out the front less the tranny.
Removed every thing and the core support. Left the fenders in place. The engine hoist would not lift the almost 1000 pound engine high enough to clear the core support.
Had to hammer and chizel the pan off, that gray sealant is tough and no room the swing a hammer at it in the truck.
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Paul H
OWNER 2004 Ford F350 6.0L Dualie 246.000 miles with Edge Insight, Early Build 8/03 with 03 engine 20 mpg running empty EGR delete running ELC all stock 1996 Ford F350 7.3L Dualie 340,000 Tony Wildman custom burn,5 inch stacks, good ole girl(in Avatar) 1995 Ford F250 7.3L Regular Cab 255,000 miles Sled Puller
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did I just say that??) The only advantage to that is you can leave the tranny in place while pulling the engine. That would be doable on a gravel drive. You could hoist the engine out and roll the truck back to clear it. Unfortunately on the 6-spd, the tranny has to come out first.
), AIS, 
2004 Ford F350 6.0L Dualie 246.000 miles with Edge Insight, Early Build 8/03 with 03 engine 20 mpg running empty EGR delete running ELC all stock
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