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99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain Discussion of the 99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 1999-Up Super Duty trucks and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 7.3L Power Stroke engine.

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Old 11-26-2012, 07:25 PM   #1 (permalink)
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oil pan

there was a guy that pulled his oil pan in the truck a while back and i was wundering if anyone can tell me who it was and/or how he did it. i do not have the means to pull the engine and i would rather NOT pull tranny,(live on dirt, no concrete to do it on). if any one knows let me know- need to put this thing back to gether
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1999.5 F350 SRW 7.3 6spd; 243k miles no mods
new timing cover
K&N air filter
replaced injectors
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1976 F350 FB DUELLY
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Old 11-26-2012, 07:29 PM   #2 (permalink)
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One guy cut the cross member and then welded it back together. And IIRC another guy drilled out the rivets holding the cross member in, and then used grade 8 bolts to put it back in.

FWIW, this is one of those jobs that I would find a place to do it "right". Iffen you were close enough to me, My driveway would be available with a hoist and engine stand.
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ATS Turbo upgrades: 3" DP with 3" exhaust Magnaflow XL muffler: Pictures Here
2012 Copper Canyon 273 FWRET w/2 slides, Air Lift 5000 bags
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Old 11-26-2012, 07:34 PM   #3 (permalink)
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that would be nice. i also noticed my EBPT tube is broken what would that do as far as running or performance? can i fix w fuel line or does it get too hot?
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1999.5 F350 SRW 7.3 6spd; 243k miles no mods
new timing cover
K&N air filter
replaced injectors
replaced HPOP (reman)
replaced PCMx2 & idm

OTHER TRUCK
1976 F350 FB DUELLY
390 W/MANUAL TRANNY
2 WD 4BBL
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Old 11-26-2012, 07:39 PM   #4 (permalink)
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If it's metal, then I wold suspect using any other material wouldn't really work. Can't say what performance issues might be caused by it being broken.
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1994 F-350 7.3 IDI Turbo, crew cab, E4OD,4:10 L/S, LB, Dually Photos
ATS Turbo upgrades: 3" DP with 3" exhaust Magnaflow XL muffler: Pictures Here
2012 Copper Canyon 273 FWRET w/2 slides, Air Lift 5000 bags
Pillar pod: Autometer C2 Series gauges: pyro,trans, boost, water, oil pressure
Hypermax Cowl induction, K&N air filter, flex-a-lite 26K trans cooler with fan,Tekonsha prodigy
Train Horns: Pictures here

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Old 11-26-2012, 08:01 PM   #5 (permalink)
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its a serious pain in the butt,how ever removing the oil pan from a 7.3 with out completely removing the engine from the truck but you will still need to remove the trans and pull the engine up, untill there is enough clearance, its not much less work but all depends on what else you plan on doing well its out some things on those engines are sooo much easier with it being out of the truck
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Old 11-26-2012, 08:29 PM   #6 (permalink)
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If you're planning on doing the oil pan and timing cover with the engine in the truck, I wouldn't recommend it. You'll probably have oil leak issues down the road. Too bad you don't have an auto tranny ( did I just say that??) The only advantage to that is you can leave the tranny in place while pulling the engine. That would be doable on a gravel drive. You could hoist the engine out and roll the truck back to clear it. Unfortunately on the 6-spd, the tranny has to come out first.

Seriously, find somewhere (or someone) to do it right and avoid problems later.
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Old 11-26-2012, 08:55 PM   #7 (permalink)
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push come 2 shove ill try to lift body for mor clearence and I HATE AUTOMATICS. had alot of trouble with them
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1999.5 F350 SRW 7.3 6spd; 243k miles no mods
new timing cover
K&N air filter
replaced injectors
replaced HPOP (reman)
replaced PCMx2 & idm

OTHER TRUCK
1976 F350 FB DUELLY
390 W/MANUAL TRANNY
2 WD 4BBL
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Old 11-26-2012, 08:58 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
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I HATE AUTOMATICS. had alot of trouble with them
You don't have to sell me on that. I had a momentary slip there.
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First truck -- 1929 Model A Ford pickup, restored from ground up. Wish I still had it!
99.5 F250 PSD Supercab LB 4x4, ZF-6 w/SB Con OFE, 3.73LS, Boost & pyro gauges, Swamps S175/146 injectors, DP 80 HP Econo PCM (classic version), AIS, coolant filter w/"hokum" bracket, regulated return, heated mirror mod, lighted cupholder, Marinco heater plug-in.

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Old 11-26-2012, 09:46 PM   #9 (permalink)
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kl you think i might have the room w body lift? all my autos were gassers, but i still feel the same. city drivig (stop & go) i'm all for it but mtn's standered is the ONLY way to go. (my opinion) and i will just plug the tube at the manifold. oh and i think all the oil is drained been sitting for days w no oil in 'er. oh and i'm going to use copper rtv not going to spend $20+ on sealant. used b4 in other truck (gasser w no problems) and i am useing diesel oil (runs better) in that also. AND YOUR 'SLIP' IS FORGIVEN THIS TIME. HA HA HA HA
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1999.5 F350 SRW 7.3 6spd; 243k miles no mods
new timing cover
K&N air filter
replaced injectors
replaced HPOP (reman)
replaced PCMx2 & idm

OTHER TRUCK
1976 F350 FB DUELLY
390 W/MANUAL TRANNY
2 WD 4BBL

Last edited by tickedoff36; 11-26-2012 at 09:52 PM.
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Old 11-26-2012, 09:59 PM   #10 (permalink)
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First time your stuck on an up grade in bumper to bumper stop and go traffic with 11,000 lbs of fiver hooked on, you might think different. BTDT.
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1994 F-350 7.3 IDI Turbo, crew cab, E4OD,4:10 L/S, LB, Dually Photos
ATS Turbo upgrades: 3" DP with 3" exhaust Magnaflow XL muffler: Pictures Here
2012 Copper Canyon 273 FWRET w/2 slides, Air Lift 5000 bags
Pillar pod: Autometer C2 Series gauges: pyro,trans, boost, water, oil pressure
Hypermax Cowl induction, K&N air filter, flex-a-lite 26K trans cooler with fan,Tekonsha prodigy
Train Horns: Pictures here

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Old 11-26-2012, 10:38 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by chuckster57 View Post
First time your stuck on an up grade in bumper to bumper stop and go traffic with 11,000 lbs of fiver hooked on, you might think different. BTDT.
SORRY CHUCKSTER NO WAY ONLY MANNY FOR ME
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1999.5 F350 SRW 7.3 6spd; 243k miles no mods
new timing cover
K&N air filter
replaced injectors
replaced HPOP (reman)
replaced PCMx2 & idm

OTHER TRUCK
1976 F350 FB DUELLY
390 W/MANUAL TRANNY
2 WD 4BBL
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Old 11-26-2012, 10:41 PM   #12 (permalink)
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kl you think i might have the room w body lift? all my autos were gassers, but i still feel the same. city drivig (stop & go) i'm all for it but mtn's standered is the ONLY way to go. (my opinion) and i will just plug the tube at the manifold. oh and i think all the oil is drained been sitting for days w no oil in 'er. oh and i'm going to use copper rtv not going to spend $20+ on sealant. used b4 in other truck (gasser w no problems) and i am useing diesel oil (runs better) in that also. AND YOUR 'SLIP' IS FORGIVEN THIS TIME. HA HA HA HA
If you lift the body high enough, you'll be able to pull the engine all the way out and not have to mess with the cross-member.

I wouldn't cheap out on the sealant. Definitely get the International or Ford sealant made for diesels. Plain ol' or even copper RTV sealants have stuff in them that can deplete the anti-aeration properties in the oil. That's important in our diesels with the HEUI injecotors but wouldn't hurt a gasser.

Thanks for forgiving the slip. I thought for a minute I might have to give up my handshaker license.

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First time your stuck on an up grade in bumper to bumper stop and go traffic with 11,000 lbs of fiver hooked on, you might think different. BTDT.
That's what granny gear is for. And if that doesn't work just shift the t-case into low range. Real men drive handshakers.
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First truck -- 1929 Model A Ford pickup, restored from ground up. Wish I still had it!
99.5 F250 PSD Supercab LB 4x4, ZF-6 w/SB Con OFE, 3.73LS, Boost & pyro gauges, Swamps S175/146 injectors, DP 80 HP Econo PCM (classic version), AIS, coolant filter w/"hokum" bracket, regulated return, heated mirror mod, lighted cupholder, Marinco heater plug-in.

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Old 11-26-2012, 10:45 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Then keep your handshaker OFF my driveway...just kidding. Seriously though I would find some way to pull the engine. It needs to be upside down for the pan seal to cure correctly.

You could let it sit for a week and still have oil creep down the block, contaminating the sealant.
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1994 F-350 7.3 IDI Turbo, crew cab, E4OD,4:10 L/S, LB, Dually Photos
ATS Turbo upgrades: 3" DP with 3" exhaust Magnaflow XL muffler: Pictures Here
2012 Copper Canyon 273 FWRET w/2 slides, Air Lift 5000 bags
Pillar pod: Autometer C2 Series gauges: pyro,trans, boost, water, oil pressure
Hypermax Cowl induction, K&N air filter, flex-a-lite 26K trans cooler with fan,Tekonsha prodigy
Train Horns: Pictures here

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Old 11-26-2012, 10:48 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Real men drive handshakers.
My wife can verify that I am a REAL man....I am just a lazy real man behind the wheel! LOL
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1994 F-350 7.3 IDI Turbo, crew cab, E4OD,4:10 L/S, LB, Dually Photos
ATS Turbo upgrades: 3" DP with 3" exhaust Magnaflow XL muffler: Pictures Here
2012 Copper Canyon 273 FWRET w/2 slides, Air Lift 5000 bags
Pillar pod: Autometer C2 Series gauges: pyro,trans, boost, water, oil pressure
Hypermax Cowl induction, K&N air filter, flex-a-lite 26K trans cooler with fan,Tekonsha prodigy
Train Horns: Pictures here

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Old 11-27-2012, 11:04 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Pulled the 7.3 out of the boy's 250 once. took it out the front less the tranny.

Removed every thing and the core support. Left the fenders in place. The engine hoist would not lift the almost 1000 pound engine high enough to clear the core support.

Had to hammer and chizel the pan off, that gray sealant is tough and no room the swing a hammer at it in the truck.
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