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99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain Discussion of the 99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 1999-Up Super Duty trucks and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 7.3L Power Stroke engine.

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Old 11-27-2012, 03:29 PM   #16 (permalink)
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how important is it to replace wear sleeve and the seal neither are worn out and the seal looks new and doesn't leak and are a tight fit. besides HOW IN THE HELL do you get the sleeve off?? HEAT?
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1999.5 F350 SRW 7.3 6spd; 243k miles no mods
new timing cover
K&N air filter
replaced injectors
replaced HPOP (reman)
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Old 11-27-2012, 03:33 PM   #17 (permalink)
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I believe the sleeve is just on case the seal has worn a groove and is included in the package. If you see no wear, then don't bother to use it. Replacing the seal is your call, I would only because you have access to it.
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ATS Turbo upgrades: 3" DP with 3" exhaust Magnaflow XL muffler: Pictures Here
2012 Copper Canyon 273 FWRET w/2 slides, Air Lift 5000 bags
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Old 11-27-2012, 05:09 PM   #18 (permalink)
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I repaired my leaky oil pan with the Damian Diesel Pan Saver Kit. It's a fiberglass shell & epoxy. There's a video of the process on YouTube. The kit was $255 & fixed my problem.
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Old 11-28-2012, 12:32 AM   #19 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul H View Post
Had to hammer and chizel the pan off, that gray sealant is tough and no room the swing a hammer at it in the truck.
I'd have to agree with that. A putty knife driven in and then hammered along the gasket face is the way you need to get the pan off.

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I believe the sleeve is just on case the seal has worn a groove and is included in the package. If you see no wear, then don't bother to use it. Replacing the seal is your call, I would only because you have access to it.
If you're replacing the seal, the original shouldn't have a wear sleeve on it, so there isn't anything to take off. But the replacement will have the sleeve, which needs to be pressed on along with the seal. If there's no significant wetting around the seal, I wouldn't bother replacing it. Maybe next time, when you have to replace the clutch.

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I repaired my leaky oil pan with the Damian Diesel Pan Saver Kit. It's a fiberglass shell & epoxy. There's a video of the process on YouTube. The kit was $255 & fixed my problem.
The pan isn't the OP's problem. He's replacing a cracked front cover, and the pan has to come off to do that.
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Old 11-28-2012, 12:49 AM   #20 (permalink)
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there is a sleeve on it already not factory?
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1999.5 F350 SRW 7.3 6spd; 243k miles no mods
new timing cover
K&N air filter
replaced injectors
replaced HPOP (reman)
replaced PCMx2 & idm

OTHER TRUCK
1976 F350 FB DUELLY
390 W/MANUAL TRANNY
2 WD 4BBL
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Old 11-28-2012, 07:22 AM   #21 (permalink)
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there is a sleeve on it already not factory?
I can't see the factory machining the crankshaft to require a sleeve from the start. Stranger things have happened though.
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1994 F-350 7.3 IDI Turbo, crew cab, E4OD,4:10 L/S, LB, Dually Photos
ATS Turbo upgrades: 3" DP with 3" exhaust Magnaflow XL muffler: Pictures Here
2012 Copper Canyon 273 FWRET w/2 slides, Air Lift 5000 bags
Pillar pod: Autometer C2 Series gauges: pyro,trans, boost, water, oil pressure
Hypermax Cowl induction, K&N air filter, flex-a-lite 26K trans cooler with fan,Tekonsha prodigy
Train Horns: Pictures here

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Old 11-28-2012, 03:49 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by klhansen View Post
The pan isn't the OP's problem. He's replacing a cracked front cover, and the pan has to come off to do that.
Oops, reading comprehension fail!
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Old 11-28-2012, 07:59 PM   #23 (permalink)
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FINALLY GOT THE NEW COVER BACK ON!!!! NOW ALL THAT IS LEFT IS RESEAL THE OIL PAN, RAD AND HOSES, TURBO COOLER PIPES, PUT THE FLUIDS IN 'ER AND FIRE IT UP. I LOST A BOLT IN THE PAN; TRIED TO GET IT BUT IT DROPPED BELOW THE BAFFLE, IS THAT GOING TO BE A PROBLEM? I HAVE XTRA BOLTS. I TRIED TO FISH IT BUT IT FELL DOWN INTO ONE OF THE BAFFLE HOLES.
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1999.5 F350 SRW 7.3 6spd; 243k miles no mods
new timing cover
K&N air filter
replaced injectors
replaced HPOP (reman)
replaced PCMx2 & idm

OTHER TRUCK
1976 F350 FB DUELLY
390 W/MANUAL TRANNY
2 WD 4BBL
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Old 11-28-2012, 08:31 PM   #24 (permalink)
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If it went to the bottom, under the baffles , you're good.
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1994 F-350 7.3 IDI Turbo, crew cab, E4OD,4:10 L/S, LB, Dually Photos
ATS Turbo upgrades: 3" DP with 3" exhaust Magnaflow XL muffler: Pictures Here
2012 Copper Canyon 273 FWRET w/2 slides, Air Lift 5000 bags
Pillar pod: Autometer C2 Series gauges: pyro,trans, boost, water, oil pressure
Hypermax Cowl induction, K&N air filter, flex-a-lite 26K trans cooler with fan,Tekonsha prodigy
Train Horns: Pictures here

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Old 12-05-2012, 12:49 AM   #25 (permalink)
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just got it back together today YEAH!! how long does it take (on average) for the oil to prime again?? i did oil in the HPOP and it fired right up then quit. should i keep cranking it or priming HPOP?? is putting LPOP on dry hurt anything? or should i pull it and lube it up?
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1999.5 F350 SRW 7.3 6spd; 243k miles no mods
new timing cover
K&N air filter
replaced injectors
replaced HPOP (reman)
replaced PCMx2 & idm

OTHER TRUCK
1976 F350 FB DUELLY
390 W/MANUAL TRANNY
2 WD 4BBL
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Old 12-05-2012, 12:53 AM   #26 (permalink)
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If you can get to the lpop I would pull it, slather on a good dose of assembly lube, and put it back together. I have found that oil pumps installed "dry" don't like to create the vacum needed to pull the oil to prime them.
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1994 F-350 7.3 IDI Turbo, crew cab, E4OD,4:10 L/S, LB, Dually Photos
ATS Turbo upgrades: 3" DP with 3" exhaust Magnaflow XL muffler: Pictures Here
2012 Copper Canyon 273 FWRET w/2 slides, Air Lift 5000 bags
Pillar pod: Autometer C2 Series gauges: pyro,trans, boost, water, oil pressure
Hypermax Cowl induction, K&N air filter, flex-a-lite 26K trans cooler with fan,Tekonsha prodigy
Train Horns: Pictures here

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Old 12-05-2012, 01:29 PM   #27 (permalink)
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DAMN if i dont need to pull it; would it be possible to oil it with an oil gun?? or pull it?
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1999.5 F350 SRW 7.3 6spd; 243k miles no mods
new timing cover
K&N air filter
replaced injectors
replaced HPOP (reman)
replaced PCMx2 & idm

OTHER TRUCK
1976 F350 FB DUELLY
390 W/MANUAL TRANNY
2 WD 4BBL
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Old 12-05-2012, 03:35 PM   #28 (permalink)
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A few years ago the shop that does my trucks used some treatment - maybe epoxy - to seal my very leaky pan on a '94 PSD. No engine removal and whatever pre treatment cleaning they could manage in situ. Has worked for 2 years on very rough roads - YMMV but possibly worth a try - can always do it right later if necessary.

Brian S

On edit: just reread the thread and realize the the OP had different problem
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Last edited by nattres; 12-05-2012 at 03:47 PM. Reason: reread
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Old 12-05-2012, 04:33 PM   #29 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by tickedoff36 View Post
DAMN if i dont need to pull it; would it be possible to oil it with an oil gun?? or pull it?
Since it sits behind the crankshaft pulley, maybe take the pulley off and try squirting oil in there. There has to be a little bit of play where the inner gear rides on the crank. The key is to get the teeth of the gears wet.
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1994 F-350 7.3 IDI Turbo, crew cab, E4OD,4:10 L/S, LB, Dually Photos
ATS Turbo upgrades: 3" DP with 3" exhaust Magnaflow XL muffler: Pictures Here
2012 Copper Canyon 273 FWRET w/2 slides, Air Lift 5000 bags
Pillar pod: Autometer C2 Series gauges: pyro,trans, boost, water, oil pressure
Hypermax Cowl induction, K&N air filter, flex-a-lite 26K trans cooler with fan,Tekonsha prodigy
Train Horns: Pictures here

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Old 12-05-2012, 06:17 PM   #30 (permalink)
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the oddest thing happened: tried to start this morning and nothing just wore the batt down. went to storage to get another puller (shorter now that the rad is back in) came back and b4 i pulled the pulley i thought that i would give it 1 final crank AND IT FIRED RIGHT UP. GO FIGURE!! it was loud and noisy (normal?) it has quieted down a little. now i got to put ALL my crap up. how fun!
WELL GOT AN OIL LEAK NOT BAD BUT ENOUGH TO PISS OF THE POPE. HOPEFULLY IT WONT BE MORE THAN A QT EVERY 150 MILES OR SO, THAT I CAN LIVE WITH, UNTIL I CAN DO IT RIGHT.
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1999.5 F350 SRW 7.3 6spd; 243k miles no mods
new timing cover
K&N air filter
replaced injectors
replaced HPOP (reman)
replaced PCMx2 & idm

OTHER TRUCK
1976 F350 FB DUELLY
390 W/MANUAL TRANNY
2 WD 4BBL

Last edited by tickedoff36; 12-05-2012 at 07:53 PM. Reason: ADD INFO
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