99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke Engine and DrivetrainDiscussion of the 99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 1999-Up Super Duty trucks and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 7.3L Power Stroke engine.
how important is it to replace wear sleeve and the seal neither are worn out and the seal looks new and doesn't leak and are a tight fit. besides HOW IN THE HELL do you get the sleeve off?? HEAT?
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1999 f350 7.3 6spd; 243k miles no mods
new timing cover
K&N air filter
replaced injectors
new HPOP
new ecm & idm
I believe the sleeve is just on case the seal has worn a groove and is included in the package. If you see no wear, then don't bother to use it. Replacing the seal is your call, I would only because you have access to it.
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1994 F-350 7.3 IDI Turbo, crew cab, E4OD,4:10 L/S, LB, Dually Photos
ATS Turbo upgrades: 3" DP with 3" exhaust Magnaflow XL muffler: Pictures Here
2012 Copper Canyon 273 FWRET w/2 slides, Air Lift 5000 bags
Pillar pod: Autometer C2 Series gauges: pyro,trans, boost, water, oil pressure
Hypermax Cowl induction, K&N air filter, flex-a-lite 26K trans cooler with fan,Tekonsha prodigy
Train Horns: Pictures here
I repaired my leaky oil pan with the Damian Diesel Pan Saver Kit. It's a fiberglass shell & epoxy. There's a video of the process on YouTube. The kit was $255 & fixed my problem.
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2002 F350 XLT, CC, SB, 4x4, Auto, AIC, DiabloSport Predator, BD X-Monitor, Kenwood TM-V7A, Pioneer 7400MP3, Infinity 5.25" Components, Infinity 10" Sub in a Q-Logic Box, Heated Mirrors, Gentex/Mito Auto Dimming Mirror, Rear ID Bar, Uniden PC78 Elite CB, Clifford Matrix RS3 Alarm/Remote Start, Keypad Entry, Homemade "Tymar", custom, muffler back exhaust, 6 Whelen LED's in rear window, 6 Whelen Strobes in the Front, Rears still not installed...
Had to hammer and chizel the pan off, that gray sealant is tough and no room the swing a hammer at it in the truck.
I'd have to agree with that. A putty knife driven in and then hammered along the gasket face is the way you need to get the pan off.
Quote:
Originally Posted by chuckster57
I believe the sleeve is just on case the seal has worn a groove and is included in the package. If you see no wear, then don't bother to use it. Replacing the seal is your call, I would only because you have access to it.
If you're replacing the seal, the original shouldn't have a wear sleeve on it, so there isn't anything to take off. But the replacement will have the sleeve, which needs to be pressed on along with the seal. If there's no significant wetting around the seal, I wouldn't bother replacing it. Maybe next time, when you have to replace the clutch.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 96Cobra
I repaired my leaky oil pan with the Damian Diesel Pan Saver Kit. It's a fiberglass shell & epoxy. There's a video of the process on YouTube. The kit was $255 & fixed my problem.
The pan isn't the OP's problem. He's replacing a cracked front cover, and the pan has to come off to do that.
FINALLY GOT THE NEW COVER BACK ON!!!! NOW ALL THAT IS LEFT IS RESEAL THE OIL PAN, RAD AND HOSES, TURBO COOLER PIPES, PUT THE FLUIDS IN 'ER AND FIRE IT UP. I LOST A BOLT IN THE PAN; TRIED TO GET IT BUT IT DROPPED BELOW THE BAFFLE, IS THAT GOING TO BE A PROBLEM? I HAVE XTRA BOLTS. I TRIED TO FISH IT BUT IT FELL DOWN INTO ONE OF THE BAFFLE HOLES.
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1999 f350 7.3 6spd; 243k miles no mods
new timing cover
K&N air filter
replaced injectors
new HPOP
new ecm & idm
just got it back together today YEAH!! how long does it take (on average) for the oil to prime again?? i did oil in the HPOP and it fired right up then quit. should i keep cranking it or priming HPOP?? is putting LPOP on dry hurt anything? or should i pull it and lube it up?
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1999 f350 7.3 6spd; 243k miles no mods
new timing cover
K&N air filter
replaced injectors
new HPOP
new ecm & idm
If you can get to the lpop I would pull it, slather on a good dose of assembly lube, and put it back together. I have found that oil pumps installed "dry" don't like to create the vacum needed to pull the oil to prime them.
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1994 F-350 7.3 IDI Turbo, crew cab, E4OD,4:10 L/S, LB, Dually Photos
ATS Turbo upgrades: 3" DP with 3" exhaust Magnaflow XL muffler: Pictures Here
2012 Copper Canyon 273 FWRET w/2 slides, Air Lift 5000 bags
Pillar pod: Autometer C2 Series gauges: pyro,trans, boost, water, oil pressure
Hypermax Cowl induction, K&N air filter, flex-a-lite 26K trans cooler with fan,Tekonsha prodigy
Train Horns: Pictures here
A few years ago the shop that does my trucks used some treatment - maybe epoxy - to seal my very leaky pan on a '94 PSD. No engine removal and whatever pre treatment cleaning they could manage in situ. Has worked for 2 years on very rough roads - YMMV but possibly worth a try - can always do it right later if necessary.
Brian S
On edit: just reread the thread and realize the the OP had different problem
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1993 F-350 crew cab 4X4 gas/propane engine C6 - sold
1992 E-350 15 passenger IDI 7.3 diesel, E4OD - still going
1994 F-350 crew cab 4X4 Powerstroke 5 speed - down to spare
2000 F-350 crew cab 4X4 Powerstroke 6 speed - down to spare
2002 F-350 crew cab 4X4 Powerstroke 4R100 - now have two
1999 International 4900 DT466
1995 Suburban gas 5.7 auto - now have two
Last edited by nattres; 12-05-2012 at 02:47 PM.
Reason: reread
DAMN if i dont need to pull it; would it be possible to oil it with an oil gun?? or pull it?
Since it sits behind the crankshaft pulley, maybe take the pulley off and try squirting oil in there. There has to be a little bit of play where the inner gear rides on the crank. The key is to get the teeth of the gears wet.
__________________
1994 F-350 7.3 IDI Turbo, crew cab, E4OD,4:10 L/S, LB, Dually Photos
ATS Turbo upgrades: 3" DP with 3" exhaust Magnaflow XL muffler: Pictures Here
2012 Copper Canyon 273 FWRET w/2 slides, Air Lift 5000 bags
Pillar pod: Autometer C2 Series gauges: pyro,trans, boost, water, oil pressure
Hypermax Cowl induction, K&N air filter, flex-a-lite 26K trans cooler with fan,Tekonsha prodigy
Train Horns: Pictures here
the oddest thing happened: tried to start this morning and nothing just wore the batt down. went to storage to get another puller (shorter now that the rad is back in) came back and b4 i pulled the pulley i thought that i would give it 1 final crank AND IT FIRED RIGHT UP. GO FIGURE!! it was loud and noisy (normal?) it has quieted down a little. now i got to put ALL my crap up. how fun!
WELL GOT AN OIL LEAK NOT BAD BUT ENOUGH TO PISS OF THE POPE. HOPEFULLY IT WONT BE MORE THAN A QT EVERY 150 MILES OR SO, THAT I CAN LIVE WITH, UNTIL I CAN DO IT RIGHT.
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1999 f350 7.3 6spd; 243k miles no mods
new timing cover
K&N air filter
replaced injectors
new HPOP
new ecm & idm
Last edited by tickedoff36; 12-05-2012 at 06:53 PM.
Reason: ADD INFO
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NOT BAD BUT ENOUGH TO PISS OF THE POPE. HOPEFULLY IT WONT BE MORE THAN A QT EVERY 150 MILES OR SO, THAT I CAN LIVE WITH, UNTIL I CAN DO IT RIGHT.
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