Just noticed that the oil pan on our F550 has sprung a leak due to rust out. I did a search on the forum but only found one thread (I must not be doing something right). However, we need guidance. Is there a simplier way to replace the pan or do I give in and have the dealer do it for $2000.00? My time is limited and although I did pull a number of engines in my youth, never did I pull something the size and weight of a 7.3.
I have a 99.5 7.3 and there are rust bubbles in quit a few places.And I live in Fla so I don't think the salty northern winter roads is the problem.I think that Ford used inferior metal myself and demands a recall:thumbsup: Because it seems to be a common problem.Boy the expense it would be for Ford to pull all of our oil pans!
grind the rust off, put a screw into the leak hole to stop the leak, clean everything spotless with acetone or ketone then fiberglass the rusty area with alternating layers of thin mat and woven rovings. You can use JB Weld and similar products with the fiberglass cloth as an epoxy bond that's even better than polyester or other "ester" resins.
I don't see the LineX insulating the pan that much. Even if you did fully insulate the pan how much heat is really lost throught the pan? Someone help me out here.
How many quarts sit in the pan at operating speed?
How many GPM does the system flow?
Heat of oil entering pan?
Heat of oil leaving cooler?
What you are trying to determine is cooling effect of pan. I suspect it is not very much. If it is a concern, the more dense the patch the better heat transfer. JB weld impregnated into a fine stainless screen is pretty dense and makes a good patch. Easy to get, big tubes at Wally World for 12 bucks. My concern with any patch would be moisture becoming trapped between the patch and pan. If that occured you would not know it unitl it was too late. A good paint seems the best for PM'n a rusted but sound pan. Currently leaking pans would require a patch with some mechanical strength.
Guys, don't over complicate this. No need for fancy & expensive stainless or aluminum pans. No need for costly coatings.
Buy a new pan and sandblast it.
Buy 1 qt of Rustoleum type metal primer and apply several coats.
In 2 or 3 days when that's dry, apply several coats of Rustoleum top coat.
In 2 or 3 days when that dries put the pan on and forget about it.
Do NOT use spray cans. They are all solvent and won't apply much actual paint. Use brush, roller, or mix and use air gun.
I say 'Rustoleum type', because Rustoleum is great to use, but the competitve products work just as well, like Tractor Supply's brand, or the Ace eqivelant.
Best primer, IMO, is called Kem-Chromic from Sherwin Williams, but you can only buy it in 1 gal cans for $40 or so, so it's not practical unless you're doing a lot. Then SW also sells an awesome industrial paint, but again, not worth it for a small job.
I help my cousin do portable sandblasting and we've done all kinds of jobs in high corrosive areas and it's a simple process: Blast, prime and paint. And it will last a long time. Rustoleum type stuff works great if prepped properly.
I've done several of my pans this way and they've held up perfectly in our North East Ohio salty winters, and doesn't cost much to do. If you don't have access to a blaster, then grind the new pan down with a sander. Get to bare metal and scuff it up good...
Jim, painting the pan aint the problem. Por 15 and it will last an eternity. Its having to pull the engine to replace a pan with a hole in it, that's the problem:thumbsup:
Just FYI : That pam is a ton of fun to paint. Getting the top edge and around the cross members is especially fun.
Mine is holding up great after the POR. My cuz coated his with JBWeld and then rustproof paint (Rustoleum I think) and it worked very well too.
To anyone whose pan isn't rusted yet, do SOMETHING to it. Whether POR, KBS, Rustoleam or any of these other methods mentioned, DO IT. Even spending $70 on the rust kit is cheap insurance. Plus, you'll have tons left over to do other things.
Just FYI : That pam is a ton of fun to paint. Getting the top edge and around the cross members is especially fun.
Mine is holding up great after the POR. My cuz coated his with JBWeld and then rustproof paint (Rustoleum I think) and it worked very well too.
To anyone whose pan isn't rusted yet, do SOMETHING to it. Whether POR, KBS, Rustoleam or any of these other methods mentioned, DO IT. Even spending $70 on the rust kit is cheap insurance. Plus, you'll have tons left over to do other things.
The Ford Deisel pan rust out is a problem that has gone on for years. I can say that with confidence as I replaced my fathers pan in his 86 F-250 with the IH deisel. Now I am new to this forum, while searching for a fix for my 02 F-350 PS pan rust out. She developed a bad leak a week ago, and a look last night showed the pan all rusted and paint bubbled on the side and the oil running out. My dealer said "not a chronic problem, but not unheard of eighter". Good company man there, with a $1600 quote.
I just weld a patch over the weak areas with some thin steel. I have welded at least 6 of these pans now, and have not had a problem. After putting the patch over the weak area, just clean the rest of the pan, and por-15 it. Then you can paint it. Obviously if it is rusted at the top by where it bolts to the block, welding a patch on it might be a little hard!! Fortunately for all of my buddies I have fixed up, they were rusted through on the sides towards the bottom. I have a large magnetic ground for my welder so I can ground as close as possible to the area to be welded ( negative battery cables disconnected please! ). Any competent welding shop should be able to repair it this way. It usually takes me about 4 hours to do the complete repair.
The reason I said to fiberglass the pan is because you can do it in place. I had a pan that rusted clear through in a boat. That one I had to pull the motor to fix, so I just removed the pan, but that isn't necessary. When it was done, it went back in the boat and got salt water slopped on it for 2 years without a spec of rust ever showing up. Polyester resin makes an excellent sealant so rocks that bounce up aren't likely to damage your pan paint.
I used KBS coatings, and it worked great too. Just slop it on there.
Not sure if POR is the same in this respect, but I just called to see if you can recoat the KBS, and they said yes. I put on 2 coats probably 8-9 months ago, and was thinking of putting 2 more on now just to be safe.
I used to use this ceramic S metal that brushes on like paint. Degrease, Sandblast or wire wheel the pan. Mix this stuff up and paint on. They use this on ship props, pumps etc. Great stuff. About $150 pint + estimate.
After shopping my options and speaking to several people locally I repaired mine with JB Weld epoxy. When I ground the rusted area with a twisted wire brush in my die grinder, I had three 1/16" holes in a horizontal line three inches above the lower radius of the pan on the right side. This is the easiest area to get to thankfully. I drianed the oil for a day then cleaned up the area and fabricated a tin patch that covered the thin and damaged area and extended beyond 1" in all directions. I applied the JB weld and then clamped the doubler patch on with a carpenters clamp and edge sealed with more epoxy. Let it sit with a heat gun on it for 24 hours. I ground all the other rust and loose paint I could reach and painted the pan with 4 coats of flat black rustoleum. I used flat because you can put it on heavier without runs, and any seeps will show as wet spots on the dull paint.
A call to JB weld answered my questions about breakdown as a result of petrolium and heat. They said as long as it was let set completely for 24 hours at 70 degrees, oil and heat should not affect it.
I've run it for a week now, about 300 miles, not even a seep can be seen.
OK, I bought the POR-15 as recommended. I am steel brushing the rust and a pin hole was created. Oil is slowly leaking out. I am assuming that I have to drain the oil and then continue with the instructions as per POR. Right? POR users please help.
Mark
I would put a small sheet metal screw in the pinhole and cover with JB weld. Draining the oil is all so a good plan befor you go any farther. Once the JBweld is dry than use the POR.
DENNY
Maybe my pan was not that bad. I just sanded the rust spots down and shot it with BBQ paint form a rattle can. I was able to hit all the spots and it put a nice coat on there. No point in turning a hair cut into brain surgery.
I did the same thing as you and a year later there was more damage done by rust.
I think the POR-15 or other similar product is the right way to go. One year later it looks just like it did the day I did the process. Keep your eyes on it.
Jim
Yup. POR and KBS are the same in that you just have to get the flaky stuff off. They do recommend complete paint removal prior to applying their products. Generally sand/wire wheel everything you can, then degrease, etch, and paint on the product. A sprayer would be easier, as there are some pretty tight spots up high uon the pan. Fortunately it's also the least likely spots to rust.
So far my KBS is holding up nicely.
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