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Oil Pan Rust Out

30K views 60 replies 30 participants last post by  detroitfd 
#1 ·
Gentlemen,

Just noticed that the oil pan on our F550 has sprung a leak due to rust out. I did a search on the forum but only found one thread (I must not be doing something right). However, we need guidance. Is there a simplier way to replace the pan or do I give in and have the dealer do it for $2000.00? My time is limited and although I did pull a number of engines in my youth, never did I pull something the size and weight of a 7.3.

In advance, thank you for your help.

Mark
 
#2 ·
I too have seen many posts about the oil pan rusting. I have luckily not had this problem (I live in So Cal). I have read some stuff about people using JB Weld, but I suspect that is very temporary fix. If it is rusted in one spot it is probably close in others as well. I think you gotta change the pan, and from what I have read the CORRECT way to do it is to pull the engine....then install new pan with engine upside down on a stand and let set overnight.


Are rusted out oil pans a common problem on other vehicles? Seems absolutely ridiculous to have an engine that can last 500k miles, but you have to change out the oil pan every few years, at the cost of a complete engine removal!!!
 
#3 ·
Seems to be a common problem. Mine was replaced in 2002 at 84k. Thankfully it was under warranty and only cost the $100 deductible. Dealer was nice enough to install my LUK clutch that I supplied for free since it was apart.

Ever since, I check for surface rust and if I see any I clean to bare metal and apply POR15. Hoping this will keep me from spending the big bucks to have it done again.
 
#4 ·
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: GeometryTeacher</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Gentlemen,

Just noticed that the oil pan on our F550 has sprung a leak due to rust out. I did a search on the forum but only found one thread (I must not be doing something right). However, we need guidance. Is there a simplier way to replace the pan or do I give in and have the dealer do it for $2000.00? My time is limited and although I did pull a number of engines in my youth, never did I pull something the size and weight of a 7.3.

In advance, thank you for your help.

Mark </div></div>

Seeing that you are from CT I got a guy In Naugatuck that is a Master Diesel Tech at a very large dealer and does all my work on the side.You oil pan job would be about 1/2 that.Pm me if you need contact info.
 
#6 ·
This just happened to the mac tool guy that comes to my work he got me a part number to this stuff call elastosil or something like that comes in a tube of caulk the part # is 1830856c1 he said it goes on real think and cures really fast. I guess you just grind your pan and apply it. don't know where he got it from but he said they use it on the municipal vehicles. not sure how well it works (he claims its awesome) just my .02 don't know if it will help. he said he used jb weld on his other powerstroke and it failed right away. this stuff has lasted a while so far.

randy
 
#7 ·
So why do these pans rust out?

Does this happen to all cars in snow country?
 
#10 ·
I've heard good things about the POR-15. Try that or the Mac part # 1830856c1 before you spend the $2,000 on a new pan. My pan is still painted black with no rust and the roads are salted.(120,000) Maybe a different coating process.??
 
#11 ·
Anyone know where I can get the goop? Mine is well past the "keep it from rusting with POR-15" stage, approaching the "she's gonna blow!" stage...

Have to pull the engine to do the oil pan?? Who's bright engineering idea was THAT? Any chance anyone's given it a shot without pulling the engine?
 
#12 ·
I have read about one guy here that did it but I think it was more work than pulling it. Someone has been saying they were going to invent a 2 piece unit but I haven't seen it yet.
Jim
 
#14 ·
My experience with epoxy and bonding agents leads me to believe that with good prep on the pan,a patch will last a long time. Just be patient and let the pan drain for the entire day so the oil doesn't contaminate the patch.
 
#15 ·
My 2002 F350 with at the time 62000 started to show signs of rust on the oil pan. I saw a Ford TSB which mentioned the Ford Anti-Corrisive #PM13 which was about $22.00 at Ford Dealer if memory serves me right. I followed the instructions (sanded oil pan, wiped down with rag, brushed on the PM13 about 5 coats stuff goes a long way plenty left over, let dry overnight oil pan looks brand new to me. The coating reminds me of the texture of a spray in bed liner.


bot
 
#16 ·
I used a product called "PRC." Originally designed to seal fuel tanks in jet aircraft ... it's characteristics made it worthy to attempt a 7.3 oil pan leak fix.

It sealed an oliver tractor's fuel tank for 30+ years now. Two day job b/c it req'd a full 24hr cure time. Painted Ford Blue. Did the repair in August. Has held well so far.

I bought a kit which incl a quart of accelerant/one qt base material from Bergdahl in Reno.

yeah ... whoever heard of having an oil pan which cannot be removed w/o first fully removing the engine! Good grief!

Al
 
#17 ·
I used a product called "PRC." Originally designed to .

yeah ... whoever heard of having an oil pan which cannot be removed w/o first fully removing the engine! Good grief!

Al
I know alot of engineers here in SE MIch, we make fun of them for "overthinking" ,making things difficult,and creating extra work for themselves and other. :icon_mad:
 
#19 ·
My cousin used JB Weld on his and it's lasted over a year in Michigan, where there's more salt than road. ;)

Mine was pretty friggin rusted, but I prpped and painted with the KBS coatings system, similar to POR 15. Probably only have about 2 months on it so far, but it looks great. I thought mine might be close to gone, but after the prep it wasn't AS bad as I thought. Still some thick spots where rust came off in large pieces, but not rnough that it bled through at all.

IMHO, I'd use the JB Weld followed by POR or KBS and see what happens. Worst case, you waste some time and about $50-$60. Best case, you save at least $1000. :)
 
#20 ·
Well, My oil pan leaks Bad. 4 year old truck...What a joke. if ford is so aware of this that they have a special coating to protect it.....Why don't they just improve the product and use stainless or aluminum. I know I would have been a lot happier to have paid a few hundred extra for a stainless oil pan than to have to have my motor pulled every 4 years to replace a crappy design pan.
 
#21 ·
Living in CA, I am still stunned that these oil pans go bad so often. I agree with you that Ford should have planned better.

Where do you live? I suspect alot of snow and salty roads?
 
#23 ·
I know this is not for everyone but I cut the crossmember out from under the pan and swapped the pan out that way. My truck is a 2000 and just crazy to see it rotten like that. I hired a pro welder to reinstall the section I cut out and unless you got under there and checked it good you would never know it was done.
 
#24 ·
I just talked to the dealer i used to work at. they said the estimate I got is low and will probably be requesting a increase after they get started.
he said 1650.
I looked at the Idea of removing that cross member. looks like cutting the rivets and bolting back on. I don't like the idea of that though.
I think I am going shopping for a aftermarket stainless pan.
 
#30 ·
Our 1997 started leaking BAD a year or so ago. We drained the oil, cleaned up the pan with a grinder and wire brush and applied WEST SYSTEM epoxy and fiberglass cloth. It's the kind of repair stuff boat guys use. Still leaks a little, but we can deal with it.
 
#31 ·
Thanks guys,
I'm thinking I wont be able to find a SS pan that I would like. the best My dealer gave me for a price that I know included everything needed if the Motor is removed (coolant, ect) was about 1350.00.
I have been debating the epoxy Idea. the only area that rust bad is the sump area, the upper half is in great shape. the very bottom front is the worst.
I think it needs a shield to protect it from being sand blasted. it catches everything off the wheels and the road. looking at it, it just amazes me that there is not some sort of shield to protect it considering how wide open it is around it.
I know when it has a new pan it will have a shield and some major undercoating of some sort to protect from having this ever happen again.
I depend on this truck to provide my living. so, I don't think a epoxy patch is a wise choice. I cannot afford to have it die because a patch didn't hold.
 
#32 ·
The fiberglas cloth was not applied as a patch. It was impregnated with the epoxy and applied all around the lower half, and bottom of the oil pan.
 
#33 ·
Ford has had the rotting oil pan problem for years. It is due to cheap metal and poor paint application. I'm sure the salt doesnt help matters much though. My 94 lightning has been in the rain only a handfull of times and NEVER in the salt. W/78K on the clock it needs a pan. There is no reason for that. My 2000 i put a pan on 2 years ago as preventaive maintence when the engine was out(pan was rusty but not leaking)
 
#34 · (Edited)
I had a slight amount of surface rust in 2 spots and I cleaned it and painted it again. No more issues and I plow snow with my truck?
 
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