7.3L Power Stroke Engine and DrivetrainDiscussion of the 7.3L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 1999-Up Super Duty trucks and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 7.3L Power Stroke engine.
I am about to begin the task of changing out my torque converter, I was wondering when I get the transmission on the ground and slap on a new torque converter should I fill the new one with ATF before I put it on? Would it hurt anything if I don't?
Thanks
__________________
2002 F-350 XLT 7.3, SRW, Crewcab,
Yaesu 7800 Dual Band,
Children's Band Radio,
ISSPRO Gauges
DIY Tymar Intake,
Straight Pipe,
Wicked Wheel,
ATS Housing,
Turbomaster,
IC Foil Wrap Delete,
TC Lockup Switch,
Hypertech Power Programmer III,
Flux Capacitor,
Uranium P-32 explosive space modulator,
High torque muffler bearings.
But filling the toque converter and the pan before you install the new tranny might hurt your back. So don't do it.
Before you install the tranny/torque converter assembly, use an air compressor turned down to about 15 PSI and blow air in the cooler "hot" line. ATF in the coolers will come out the disconnected return line. If you didn't drain the tranny pan before you dropped the tranny, then do it now.
Then with no ATF in the tranny or torque converter or coolers, install the assembly and button it all up.
When you get done with the install, then pour 7 quarts of ATF into the filler (dipstick) tube. Then crank the engine and allow the engine to idle for about 30 seconds. That will fill the torque converter and the coolers. Then pour in another 6 quarts and crank the engine and let it idle for another 30 seconds. You now have 13 quarts of new ATF in the system. But there was some old ATF left in the tranny passages that won't drain, so figure on a total of around 14 quarts in there now, and it holds a little more than 17 quarts. So pour in another 3 quarts, to get it almost full.
Then drive about 30 miles unloaded or 15 miles dragging a heavy trailer, then check the ATF level when it's hot. Top off the hot tranny until it's full but not over full.
__________________
My Sierra Blanca is a '99.5 PSD CrewCab hot-rod Towing Machine! BTS tranny; Ford Severe Duty Air Induction System (AIS); 4" stainless turbo-back exhaust; DP-Tuner tunes flashed into an Edge Evolution tuner; ISSPRO EV gauges and Turbo Temp Monitor (TTM); Auxiliary Idle Controller (AIC); SP-Diesel exhaust brake and torque converter controller. Top Job front end replacement. I special-ordered it new and plan to drive it until it quits.
Last edited by SmokeyWren : 12-28-2008 at 11:35 PM.
Your redneck neighbor is right. You do not need to fill the torque converter before installing it. It won't save the pump any work, it's going to pump fluid to the torque converter whether or not it is prefilled.
And if you did fill it, how would you get it on the trans? Set the converter on the floor and lower the trans down onto it? If the trans is sitting level, when you try to install a filled torque converter you'll spill 4-5 quarts of ATF on the ground.
__________________ Mark Former Automatic Transmission Engineer 1988-2007
I replaced my torque converter about a month ago and added a few quarts the the TC. Im not that weak, but damn it was hard to lift that thing in there!
I was actually amazed how much noise that thing made, hell I had a ford tech tell me it wasn't that bad compared to what he has heard in the past.
__________________
'99 F-350 Supercab Lariat built 2/13/99
Camper Package, TS 6-pos chip, DIY Tymar, 4" Magnaflow SS Exhaust, Isspro Gauges, 203* Thermostat, Coolant Filter, Upgraded Headlights/corner lamps, Custom center console with a sub, and quite a few other things.
ASSEMBLY
Transmission
...
91. CAUTION: Do not damage the fluid pump gear O-ring when installing torque converter.
CAUTION: Make sure the converter hub is fully engaged in the front pump support and gear and rotates freely. Do not damage the hub seal.
CAUTION: If the torque converter slides out, the hub seal may be damaged.
Lubricate the converter hub with clean automatic transmission fluid.
92. CAUTION: Use care when installing the torque converter to avoid damage to the front pump stator support seal.
NOTE: Check the converter crankshaft pilot for nicks or damaged surfaces that can cause interference when installing the transmission to the engine. Check the converter impeller hub for nicks or sharp edges that can damage the pump seal.
Using the special tools, install the torque converter. Push and rotate the converter onto the front pump assembly until it bottoms out.
93.Check the seating of the torque converter.
..Place the straightedge across the converter housing.
..Make sure there is a gap between the converter pilot face and the straightedge.
..Remove the special tools.
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
INSTALLATION
Transmission
(no mention of ATF until the last step)
41. Fill to correct level with clean automatic transmission fluid.
The AutoGuide.com network consists of the largest network of enthusiast-owned enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
AutoGuide.com provides the latest car reviews, auto show coverage, new car prices, and automotive news. The AutoGuide network operates more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share opinions as a community.