99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke Engine and DrivetrainDiscussion of the 99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 1999-Up Super Duty trucks and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 7.3L Power Stroke engine.
I've had my 2001 7.3 for 4 years now and it has always depressed me with its lack of power, it has run the same for 50k no matter what. It starts and seems to run okay(20MPG) but has little reserve power. The last straw came last week when I could barely manage a 12' U-Haul (5k lbs). The computer has not complained to me about anything, which makes me believe it's not electrical or the ECM is stupid. I've monitored several sensors and can't find anything especially wrong. 2 things I did find was my ICP voltage is WAY below the info I've been able to find (0.1 - 1.75v vs 1.0 - 3.0v, but it behaves correctly) and the engine will run fairly well on just the left cylinder bank but romps continously on the right bank. Would this indicate a right bank HPO problem or just because the IPC is not on this side? I would like to have some ideas before taking it in somewhere and saying, "fix it". My only reference was my '96 bought new, it was zippy compared to this.
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2001 F250 CC SWB: 129k, Hutch, Harpoon, PS Magnefine(hasn't helped brake-on cut-out), Cackle(better, especially after DIY ret-reg, needs more work)
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Two ideas when combined together will always make a third better idea!
I don't have to be wrong for you to be right.
Kent
@235K miles @ 071127
>202K miles @ 070828
2001 F350 7.3 PSD SD CC DRW Lariat, 4R100 (replaced at 41k w/rebuilt by dealer), 3.73, FX4 ESOF, Long Box - 3rd CPS. CPS in Glove Box MOD. K&N Filter. 6.0 OTA Cooler. Green to Red Coolant. Water filter. 203º T-stat. Fumoto Valve. Monroe Gasmatic Shocks.
Yeah, I wondered about that but boost seems to be okay (I'll have to check again) and I cobbled some parts to check for leaks but didn't find any... It runs better for about a minute after a 10-15 minute hot-soak then it's back to normal. It'll take off okay then flatten out and get noisy as I try to accelerate(like it's missing fuel), unless I put my foot in it. Fuel pressure is ~65psi. The return reg made it quieter but did not help the power.
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2001 F250 CC SWB: 129k, Hutch, Harpoon, PS Magnefine(hasn't helped brake-on cut-out), Cackle(better, especially after DIY ret-reg, needs more work)
see if your wiring harness is loose under you passenger side valve cover, the 7.3's have a problem with these wiggling loose
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early 1999, 7/98, F-250 7.3L, 250,000+ miles, 4x4, triple disk torque convertor, AFE dryflo home made cold air intake, straight pipe exhaust, superchips tuner (stuck on high performance tune,because someone stole the tuner out of my truck), 4.7K mod, Glow shift gauges (pyro, boost, egt), CCV mod, 3in of lift in front, 1in in back w/ 2009 SD rims w/ 2in wheel spacers wrapped in 325/65/18 Fierce Attitude MT, aftermarket headlamps w/ LED's, ranchhand grill guard, 03' front bumper w/ fog lights, gooseneck hitch
What he said. You can build your own boost leak detector for checking the intercooler plumbing, but the up pipes are something you have to visually check.
I'd guess the romps have something to do with ICP sensor location.
Right bank romping stops if I unplug the ICP sensor to default the pressure. Of course, now both banks run pretty much the same... I did check the injector resistance and found at least one that reads high, 10+ ohms. This was hot so I want to check again when cold. High resistance would reduce drive current and magnetic strength and could be some of my problem. Might it help to replace just the bad solenoid(s) (and UVCH)? Yeah, a new set of matched injectors would be great... Maybe after I service the wifes car, and fix the foundation under the house, and get some new windows, etc.
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2001 F250 CC SWB: 129k, Hutch, Harpoon, PS Magnefine(hasn't helped brake-on cut-out), Cackle(better, especially after DIY ret-reg, needs more work)
I don't think your up pipes are leaking, not with you getting 20 mpg.
If your getting the romp on 1 side like you said, it is likely caused by an injector sticking.
I have seen 6.0's romp badly due to just 1 injector bleeding off a little HPO and shorting the next injector downstream of the oil. That also could be your low ICP voltage cause, which at this time I would assume is accurate..
You could isolate by swapping injectors from side to side.
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2001 F-350 Lariat 4x4 Crew *4" BDS suspension lift w/315-75's * Ford AIS * MKO 5" exhaust * All 4 corners cleared * Front Reese Receiver * Draw Tite Fold Over Gooseneck * Reese 15K Sliding 5er * Gauges Whited Out * IC Foil Delete * Dieselsite Coolant Filter kit * DiPricol Optix White Faced Turbo,Pyro,Trans Gauges w/Dash Mount Pod * DP Tuner F5 60T 80E 120R 140X * John Wood Valve Body * ITP SS X-Over Line * ITP Boost Annihilator * 6.0 Trans Cooler * TCI Truck Master Triple Disc Billet Converter (-200 RPM) * Reviva Transmission * ESOF Converted to Manual Warn Hubs * 203' Thermostat * Turbomaster Wastegate Actuator * Gutted EBPV * Centramatics * Walbro GLS392 * Ford AICM * ITP Pre-pump * One Very Understanding Wife*
I measured the injector resistance cold this morning(at the VC conn): 6 were 4 ohms and 2 were 20+(1 right, 1 left
). When it's hot the 20's go down to 10 or less. Whaddaya think... bad solenoid or bad harness? The harness would be relatively easy to check or replace, NAPA lists the package for $80 per side.
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2001 F250 CC SWB: 129k, Hutch, Harpoon, PS Magnefine(hasn't helped brake-on cut-out), Cackle(better, especially after DIY ret-reg, needs more work)
You won't need a VC gasket most likely. They're reusable unless the pins are burnt or they're leaking (or you step on one and break it when you have it out). The high resistance on your injectors is out of spec (should be less than 5 ohms), but could be because of the UVC harness. Once you have the VC off, check the injector solenoid resistance directly.
If you have an International dealer nearby, you can get UVC harnesses for about $25 each. Part #1830844C93
Picked up Dorman 615-201 gasket kit for $87 at O'Reilly, Summit has them for $69 but I couldn't wait. Measured a suspect solenoid and it was 4 ohms. Installed new gasket and harness and saw no difference (at least it's not WORSE).
I rechecked the ICP voltage and it is okay at .85v at idle, I didn't have the needle far enough into the back of the connector.
I've about had it... I'll be on the road for 2 weeks, I may poke at it some more when I get back.
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2001 F250 CC SWB: 129k, Hutch, Harpoon, PS Magnefine(hasn't helped brake-on cut-out), Cackle(better, especially after DIY ret-reg, needs more work)
Get a hold of John @ John Wood Automotive (760) 356-9421 or jwtt.com. He's a former Ford Diesel Engineer. Best Ford PSD guy in CA, and he's willing to talk to you. He does it all....Stock to full race, engines, programs, trans, etc. Super smart dude & a lot of times he can nail the problem over the phone, or give you good direction. John has done work for me, and my 2003 PSD 7.3 roasts 37" tires and yanks a 13,000+ Lb Toyhauler at 70 mph+. Cool Trans temps, low EGT's, tons of power.
One other thing, with the truck running, you inside in the driver's seat, shift into drive. If the rear view mirror shakes (Maybe 1 bad injector), if the seat shakes under you (Maybe a few bad injectors). And, up-pipes can make a difference too. I went to the International Bellowed & Machined up-pipes (Makin' 26 psi+). If you change out the whole set of injectors, look into 1995 injectors. More Hp, Better MPG, easy to work on (Single pulse).
Good Luck!
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2003 F250 XLT 7.3L, Auto, FX4, Crew Cab, Long Bed, 6.5" Pro-Comp all spring lift & Firestone HD Rear Air Bags, BFG KM2 37x12.50x17 tires on Eagle 17x10 Rims, 4" Turbo Back Exhaust & muffler delete, Bully Dog Programmer @ 120 Hp setting ALWAYS, Machined & Bellowed International Up-Pipe Kit, Autometer Overhead Gauges (Boost, Pyrometer, Trans. Temp), Custom Pre-Filter Ram-Air with K&N filter, "John Wood" Custom Stage I Transmission, 6.0 Billet 3 Disk T/C, External T/C Lock-up switch, 6.0 Trans Cooler, Hughes Racing Deep Structural Pan, and a few more goodies. Now spinnin' AAM Rear & Dana Spicer Front 4.30:1 Gears with Warn Premium Locking Hubs.......I do a lot of towing.(13,000 lb 33' Toyhauler & 21' Ski Boat). 84,568 miles as of 11/09
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I did check the injector resistance and found at least one that reads high, 10+ ohms. This was hot so I want to check again when cold. High resistance would reduce drive current and magnetic strength and could be some of my problem. Might it help to replace just the bad solenoid(s) (and UVCH)? Yeah, a new set of matched injectors would be great... Maybe after I service the wifes car, and fix the foundation under the house, and get some new windows, etc.
), AIS, 
I'll be on the road for 2 weeks, I may poke at it some more when I get back.
So. Cal. Fireman 
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