Re: Smell Diesel Fuel
I would vote first for the o-rings around the water seperator. There's a very good write up (a sticky, no less) at the top of this forum with pics.
I had a fuel leak that was traced to the vibralok gaskets on the fuel lines going to the cylinder heads. If these seals are moving, that could easily explain why your fuel leak would come and go. I copied a write-up that I made when I chased down, found and repaired my leak. The info might help you to look for possible problem areas. Here's that write up:
I JUST finished fixing a leak that is exactly as you are posting. Mine was only much smaller, but coming down in the same spot. The fuel was running down the back of the cylinder head, over/through the exhaust manifold, down the block and over the starter and onto the ground.
Apparently the fuel line that supplies the cylinder heads enters in at the rear of the RH head (viewed as if you are sitting in the driver's seat ) and the front of the LH head. It's a 1/4" metal line that has a fitting that needs a 9/16" wrench. This fitting goes into a check valve that goes into the head. To see this little s**t, look a little left of your turbo, and right next to your exhaust pipe. You should see a little metal line disappearing out of sight. For me, I loosened the one pipe going to the cooler and the exhaust clamp. This gave me enough room to get my hand and arm down in there and take off that fitting. Once the fitting is loose, you'll see a little rubber seal/donut/whatever. Ford sells a kit (F81Z-9C387-BA) that will have four 1/4" seals, one 3/8" seal and one 5/16" seal for around $17-20. (One of the other guys suggested going to NAPA and for about 50 cents each, you could get the same thing, or maybe try a hydraulics shop. They're called "vibralock" fittings, and what you want is the rubber ferrule. The fuel return line is 5/16" OD. They’re also available from McMaster-Carr on the web.) I had a ROUGH time getting the seals on and off because I could only get one hand in there. Also, it was in the low 30s when I did this so I warmed up the seals in the microwave with water. This made them more pliable. BUT, I still had to loosen the other end of the line, which is coming out of the filter housing. (Also, there's a clamp for this line next to the turbo pedestal.) Lube the seals with engine oil and you're all set.
One other possibility...on the BACK side of the cylinder head (that is to say, farther blow and outboard of the above fitting.) is a plug that has a ( I think ) female fitting that can also be another possibility. Between the two though, I would point a finger at the first one.
I hope this will help both of you guys.
Jon in American Fork
2002 F-250 Lariat 4X4 Auto PSD CC SRW. Banks 4" Monster Exh, aFe Stage II w/PG 7, TAG II + Hi-Perf Comp Wheel, X-Monitor, SCMT 1705, fuel tank and pre-pump mods, harpooned tank, Zoodad air, always bright overhead, fuel regulator shim, HX oil hose, 2003 Lighted Mirrors, 203* T Stat, Rancho 9000XLs, C-Btr Mirrors, Roll-N-Lock bed cover, Brakesmart and Titan V. 6.0 Tranny Cooler, door seal mod, Powerslot rotors and Hawk pads, HIDs installed in '05 headlights.
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