99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke Engine and DrivetrainDiscussion of the 99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 1999-Up Super Duty trucks and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 7.3L Power Stroke engine.
I have an 02 Ford F250 and occasionally when it is cold it will miss a little bit when I get in the throttle, but mostly it seems like it will lose power for a split second and then everything is fine again. It will do it on occasion when it has warmed up, but most of the time it is when it's cold. Has anyone had a problem like this? I have been told it could be the cam sensor but I always heard that wasn't intermittent, they just go out....Any ideas?
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2001 White Lariat 7.3 Auto CC LB 4X4 -- Mods -- K&N Drop in, DP Tuner, 6.0 IC mod, 4" Magnaflow Exhaust, BTS Tranny, 3 gauge A piller pod. Kennesaw Mountain Accessories Rear and Front “Wincher” Bumper, Warn 16.5Ti Winch, Suspension: Tuff Country 2" front and 3" rear, Toyo MTs 305s on 10s, 310,000 miles!!
05 White XL 6.0 Reg Cab 4X4 140,500 miles!! (That has never seen the inside of a Garage)
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I have experienced the same thing, but only while I was driving on a rough spot on the dirt road I live on. After the first few times I went ahead and changed the cps. It seemed to go away for a few months, but then came back again. The other thing I notice when this happens is my EX switch on my DP Tuner display flashes (very briefly). I saved the first cps and plan on putting it back in to see what happens.
My truck did that for the first time last November. At first I thought I hit a large pot hole, but it happened a couple of more times on the way home. I changed the CPS and haven't had any trouble since; therefore, I recommend changing the CPS.
Good luck.
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99 early, F250 SD SC 4x4 XLT Long Bed 7.3 Power Stroke
6 spd, 203° Thermostat; DIY Tymar; ZooDad; Super Chip; The Rest Stock...
I had the same thing, but mine was bucking when it was WET, especially when I got a lot of spray from in front of me. I changes the sensor, and it did not really change. I finally changes the plug (a GM camshaft senor has the same plug, as I could not fins a Ford one). I did this repair about three weeks ago, and so far, it is good. Knock on wood and keep fingers crossed.
Once I head the old plug out, the contacts in the plug did look a little tired. adding a bit of moisture, and this could be the problem.
__________________ Eriol: 2002 F350 PSD Lariat SCSB 4WD 4R100; 396,000 km as of Dec. 2011 actual: AFe Stage 1 Air Intake, 4" straight pipe Exhaust, Edge Evolution 2 programmer, running 65% SVO in tank.
guzzle's in-tank fuel mod (hutch mod and harpoon mod). thank you guzzle. 586-902 stancor glow plug relay moved out of the valley. Baldwin 1212 pre-pump filter modification. Always bright OHC. in process: A-Pillar gauges: Fuel temp at bowl, switchable fuel pressure in bowl before and aft filter, fuel temp at in-exhaust fuel heater and in fuel return line. billgart inspired back-up / working lights in rear bumper, CCV modification (will design my own and document it, plan this to be my first write-up), AIH delete (relay mod done) planned: guzzle's TC lock-up, regulated fuel return Cedric: 1991 Jeep Cherokee Laredo Zebra, 5spd. trans. 4WD, 4.0l
Here is a long shot. I had my IPR fail with only 56,000 miles, and 6 months old. The original lasted 603,000 miles, and was replaced, along with the ICP to solve a rough idle problem. The only warning was, the motor did a hic cup, several times before it shut off completely. The magnet in the IPR failed, causing the motor to shut down. This is kind of strange, considering the long life of the original IPR. I have a theory about the replacement (grey) CPS. My motor with a BTS tuner runs smoother, and performs better with a black CPS. I run stage 1 single shot injectors, van turbo,and the 6 position tuner. There is a noticeable difference, including fuel mileage. The head of the grey CPS looks a little different than the black. I think it affects the timing slightly. MY theory.
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Sold 02 F350 Lariat CrewCab Toreador Red/ Silver DRW LB AT 4X4 4.10 gears, BTS custom chip, and tranny. built BTS and Ford Tough! 859,532 miles
SOLD: 02 F350 Lariat CC Toreador Red, DRW AT 4.10 gears, BTS custom chip, and Tranny 214,550 miles,Built BTS, and Ford Tough!
Sold 94 F350 XLT SC DI DRW 5Speed 314,000
Lifetime Member "BTS BUBBA" Association
"Ain't no feelin like BTS mobilin"
SLAPS Member
Sold 62 Corvair 95 Bus
92 Buick deuce and a quarter
03 Ford Windstar- Granny Hauler
One more thought, I would maybe check the injector wiring harnesses, and wiring, if it has the older harness the new harnesses have better clips etc.
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Sold 02 F350 Lariat CrewCab Toreador Red/ Silver DRW LB AT 4X4 4.10 gears, BTS custom chip, and tranny. built BTS and Ford Tough! 859,532 miles
SOLD: 02 F350 Lariat CC Toreador Red, DRW AT 4.10 gears, BTS custom chip, and Tranny 214,550 miles,Built BTS, and Ford Tough!
Sold 94 F350 XLT SC DI DRW 5Speed 314,000
Lifetime Member "BTS BUBBA" Association
"Ain't no feelin like BTS mobilin"
SLAPS Member
Sold 62 Corvair 95 Bus
92 Buick deuce and a quarter
03 Ford Windstar- Granny Hauler
I have an 02 Ford F250 and occasionally when it is cold it will miss a little bit when I get in the throttle, but mostly it seems like it will lose power for a split second and then everything is fine again. It will do it on occasion when it has warmed up, but most of the time it is when it's cold. Has anyone had a problem like this? I have been told it could be the cam sensor but I always heard that wasn't intermittent, they just go out....Any ideas?
Thanks!!
Does the truck have a chip? If so, check to see if it is loose.
If no chip, I would check the nut on the ipr valve and the cmp sensor and connector as previously mentioned.
One thing I would check....start the engine pull the under dash fuse cover off and apply light one finger pressure to each fuse in a up-down fashion and see if the engine dies. If it does just pull that fuse and carfully add a slight twist to the prong. Hope this helps it did for me.
If it acts like you turned the key off and back on as fast as you can, it's probably the CPS. Has it spun over but not tried to start then all at once started? If so, it could be the CPS they are not high and are easy to replace.
Last edited by equipmentguy; 01-20-2010 at 12:47 AM.
Reason: spelling
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