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Threadlocker recommendation for Quick Fill Check Valve Plug
Finally tracked down my topside oil leak to the Quick Fill Check Valve plug. Picked up the oring (and the spring, ball and seat also) and wanted to get the right threadlocker for it. I hate leaks. My guess is 277. Any recommendations?
Also is there anything special I should know about this job? Looks pretty straightforward. Getting the seat out may be tough.
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2000 PSD Lariat,F350,CC,4x4,Island Blue over Harvest Gold.
Mods: Gauges, Bilsteins, Tranny Cooler, Hutch tank mods, Racor pre-pump filter, DI reg return, Adrenaline HPOP, Red Head Steering Gear, 203, AIS, POR-15'd oil pan, AIH delete, 16*8 Alcoa Classic Singles, BFG 285-75-16 LRE, Power Slot Cryo/Hawk LTS up front
243 is better than 242 but use either, not red. loctite green retaining compound is a good one, i dont usually use it on threads though, just lip seals.
680 is the stuff that comes with the HPOP fitting repair kit. I'd recommend that, but whatever you use, you'll need to clean the threads in the block and the plug with some type of cleaner. The HPOP repair instructions call for threadlocker on the first few threads. That should work for the quick-fill plug also.
Well, I guess I don't really know. I was hoping to find someone who has done this job.
I have some 680 so I guess I could try that.
277 is recommended for the oil rail end plugs so I thought that might be the right one to use here. However, the oring is below the treads on those plugs. It is above the threads on this one.
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2000 PSD Lariat,F350,CC,4x4,Island Blue over Harvest Gold.
Mods: Gauges, Bilsteins, Tranny Cooler, Hutch tank mods, Racor pre-pump filter, DI reg return, Adrenaline HPOP, Red Head Steering Gear, 203, AIS, POR-15'd oil pan, AIH delete, 16*8 Alcoa Classic Singles, BFG 285-75-16 LRE, Power Slot Cryo/Hawk LTS up front
After looking at the plug and then contacting Bob (at dieselorings) I am convinced that it shouldn't need any loctite.
So I have tried to seal it with the oring (twice now) and have had no luck. It there any other potential leak that could be fooling me?. I have elimnated the "non-serviceable" plug that is above it on the HPOP. I can watch it while running and it appears to be seeping up around the check valve plug. I really cannot see the portion that is almost under the front cover but I don't believe the front cover could be leaking there. I suppose I will make another run at it with loctite, not sure what else to do with it. Plug and threads look fine. Sealing surface on the block is clean and smooth.
I did change out the ball and spring while in there. I left the seat alone. The new spring was a little longer (approx 0.2") than the old. I have not seen it listed but for the record the spring part number is F4TZ-6670-A.
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2000 PSD Lariat,F350,CC,4x4,Island Blue over Harvest Gold.
Mods: Gauges, Bilsteins, Tranny Cooler, Hutch tank mods, Racor pre-pump filter, DI reg return, Adrenaline HPOP, Red Head Steering Gear, 203, AIS, POR-15'd oil pan, AIH delete, 16*8 Alcoa Classic Singles, BFG 285-75-16 LRE, Power Slot Cryo/Hawk LTS up front
Still haven't tried the locktite. I ordered another plug the last time I ordered the replacement oring(s). The plug finally came in and it looks like there is some pre applied sealant on the threads. What do you think?
Going to put it in sometime this week and hope that cures it. The more I look at pictures of the timing cover and gasket, I can imagine that it could be leaking from there amd running on top of this plug. I just can't see the spot where the cover and block meet near that plug.
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2000 PSD Lariat,F350,CC,4x4,Island Blue over Harvest Gold.
Mods: Gauges, Bilsteins, Tranny Cooler, Hutch tank mods, Racor pre-pump filter, DI reg return, Adrenaline HPOP, Red Head Steering Gear, 203, AIS, POR-15'd oil pan, AIH delete, 16*8 Alcoa Classic Singles, BFG 285-75-16 LRE, Power Slot Cryo/Hawk LTS up front
The more I look at pictures of the timing cover and gasket, I can imagine that it could be leaking from there amd running on top of this plug. I just can't see the spot where the cover and block meet near that plug.
An inspection mirror is your friend in this instance. I'd confirm where the leak is coming from before "fixing" the plug again.
Thanks, I can actually rule out the HPOP to front cover gasket. I can see that area with the inspection mirror very well. Paper towels stuffed around the area also rule out the HPOP.
Plug is easy to replace so if there is supposed to be sealant on it (and I have not tried any yet) I have no reason to not try that again. Was really curious what y'all think of that plug, does that look like preapplied sealant?
I have tried to get a view of the front cover to block area in front of that plug with mirrors, lights. Tough to see because you have to look at it with the engine running. Need to get a video inspection camera that I can snake down there. New plug is going in but if it still leaks I will get a positive id before pulling the engine to replace that front cover gasket. Not convinced that a leak would go "up" and come out of that seam.
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2000 PSD Lariat,F350,CC,4x4,Island Blue over Harvest Gold.
Mods: Gauges, Bilsteins, Tranny Cooler, Hutch tank mods, Racor pre-pump filter, DI reg return, Adrenaline HPOP, Red Head Steering Gear, 203, AIS, POR-15'd oil pan, AIH delete, 16*8 Alcoa Classic Singles, BFG 285-75-16 LRE, Power Slot Cryo/Hawk LTS up front
I'm pretty sure that port you circled is the feed for the HPOP reservoir, so it's going to be under the same pressure that the HPOP reservoir is. That can get as high as 75 psi, so if it's leaking there, it can definitely go up.
Your pic of the plug doesn't look like there's much if any sealant pre-applied. When they do that, it's usually pretty obvious.
Hope the sealant on the plug does the trick for you. Pulling the engine is a lot of work.
Threadlocker recommendation for Quick Fill Check Valve Plug
Cleaned it up again, this time using a cheap harbor freight video camera and was able to confirm that the leak is coming from the front cover. Don't see me being able to pull the engine in the driveway due to the incline leading into the garage. Anyone have some recommendations on shops in the Austin area?
What other work should be done while the engine is out? I know I need a new oil pan.
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